Paris in August

@goop
 on 2022.02.03
78 Places
@goop
Paris gets quiet in August, when, in a stroke of brilliance, France gives itself the month off. While many restaurants and boutiques shut down for vacances—some for the entire months, others for a week or so to give their staff a break—there's something nice about visiting during this quiet spell. And best of all, some of our favorite places do stay open. Our Paris-in-August guide has become a goop tradition for this reason. Below, a roundup of our tried-and-true Paris spots, plus a bunch of new-to-us restaurants, bars, and shops whose doors will be open this August. (Of course, the department stores, big-name boutiques—Chanel, Louis Vuitton, etc.—museums, and hotels, like the reopened Ritz, will be fully functional, too.) Rule of thumb: Bars and restaurants belonging to hotels are always a safe bet this time of year.

Shakespeare and Company

Book store · Sorbonne

"This just might be the best bookstore in the world. It has the vibe of a warren-like country home rather than a straightforward shop, books are piled haphazardly from floor to ceiling (many of which are in English), there are benches dotted here and there, and it's staffed mostly by college kids who are full of great recommendations. It’s also home to a rich literary history—over the years, Shakespeare and Company has played host to famous American writers like Allen Ginsberg, Ernest Hemingway, William Burroughs, and William Styron. Founder George Whitman (the shop is now run by his daughter, Sylvia) famously opened up the shop’s cozy benches and couches to artists and writers who needed a place to stay. Many of these drifting creatives—or tumbleweeds, as they became known—went on to become important literary figures in their own right."

"Undulating walls and soft pink lighting paint a perfectly futuristic scene for the forty or so Commes des Garçons perfumes on offer here. Everything the brand does pushes the needle just a little bit, from the fact that the fragrances are always unisex to the highly unusual notes in the perfumes: mineral carbon, sand dunes, nail polish, cellulose, aldehydes, saffron, and leather are all featured."

Au Petit Fer Ă  Cheval

Bistro · Saint-Gervais

"Still sporting its original décor from 1903, the horseshoe-shaped bar beckons for a coffee, a kir (white wine and crème de cassis), or a quick meal. While there's a full restaurant in the back, it lacks the prime people-watching you'll get up front."

Le Verre Volé

French restaurant · 10th Arrondissement

"Part wine shop, part bistro, Le Verre Volé draws a reliably large crowd despite its tiny footprint (you'll want to make a reservation unless you're just stopping in to pick up a bottle). There's a wine shop in the 11th (38 rue Oberkampf) as well as a sandwich shop (54 rue de la Folie Méricourt). "

Le Pigalle

Hotel · 9th Arrondissement

"Located in the up-and-coming Pigalle neighborhood, Paris’s old red-light district, this hotel offers an all-day café/bar that’s comfily kitted out in overstuffed couches and elegantly mismatched vintage finds, not to mention a dance pole—a clever reference to its roots. With a tapas-style menu and generous cocktails, it’s easy to while the evening away here until the jukebox turns on or the local DJ starts spinning. "

Restaurant Le Perchoir par Adrien Cachot

Haute French restaurant · 11th Arrondissement

"The young team behind this growing concept came up with the genius idea of opening bars in disused spaces all over Paris—on rooftops, at the old Pavillon at the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, and on a houseboat parked on the Seine. The newest locale, right on top of the Gare de l’Est might just be their greatest conquest to date: In addition to an incredible view and the trademark cocktails, you'll find snacks by souped-up kebab joint Grillé."

Stohrer

Patisserie · 2nd Arrondissement

"First, a disclaimer: Stohrer is closed the first two weeks of August, however, that last hot-as-soup fortnight is ripe for sugar-loading. Proof that treat trends are pretty consistent, the shop was founded in 1730 as the official pâtissier for Louis XV. The same cream-stuffed éclairs, delicate crème Anglaise tarts studded with berries, and rose macarons have been devoured by the French for the last 300 years. The bakery is theatrically beautiful, with glass-paneled walls (giving patrons near 360-degree views of all the sweets), chandeliers, and a full frescoed ceiling—an especially delightful experience for little ones. "

À la Mère de Famille

Chocolate artisan · 9th Arrondissement

"The exterior of À la Mère de Famille—an emerald-green storefront with more windows than walls—looks like a jewelry box, or rather, a chocolate box; you can see the cakes and chocolates and towers of beautifully packaged bars from down the block. Open since 1761, one of the many pleasures of this particular confectioner is the breadth of old-world caramels, nougat, boiled sweets, and marshmallows. And nothing much has changed inside, either. Taking in the old tile floor, the floor-to-ceiling shelves stacked with preserves and syrups, and the elaborate table displays as you make your way to the ice cream counter (go for the chocolate) is an exercise in both nostalgic pleasure and calorie control."

Kshanti Yoga Paris

Permanently Closed

"It’s appropriate that this beautiful, cozy yoga studio that focuses on patience and benevolence is in an old church. The studio’s goal is to help you find the right practice for you, so the instructors teach many different styles of yoga, including Jivamukti, Hatha, Vinyasa, and Chromayoga; the studio also offers circus-inspired classes to get kids involved at a young age. Everyone is welcomed with a pair of slippers, and the vibe is so relaxed that it’s hard to resist hanging out for a post-class snack in the adjacent Maisie Cafe. For those visiting in August, classes resume on the 20th. "

The Mini Tiger Yoga Club

Permanently Closed

"Take your pick from yoga (Ashtanga, Iyengar, Vinyasa, as well as sessions for kids), Pilates, meditation, massage, and chiseling bar classes at this atmospheric studio in the Marais. Subdued lighting, gorgeous earth tones, and Asian sculptures set a soothing vibe. There’s a luxurious, rejuvenating hammam; a shop stocked with essential oils, candles, yoga mats, and beautifying potions; and a café that serves incredible organic lunches."

mirz-yoga

Yoga studio · 19th Arrondissement

"Plagued by stomach pains, Marine “Mirz” Parmentier found relief in yoga and became obsessed, leaving her communications job to train in India. She founded Mirz Yoga, where you can take Vinyasa, Hatha, and Jivamukti classes designed for all levels, including prenatal and children, along with a signature, beyond-fun hip-hop Vinyasa flow. Mirz also has her own yoga line, handmade with ethically sourced fabrics in France, and there's an amazingly delicious vegetarian café (the falafel bowl is especially good)."

Sébastien Gaudard - Pâtisserie des Martyrs

Patisserie · 9th Arrondissement

"Both the original in the 9th and the new Tea Room are the kinds of Parisian pastry shops you might dream of, with pretty tiled floors, powder-blue walls, old-world display cases, and dainty packaging. Both spots are great for stocking up on everything from molded chocolates to macarons, as well as traditional sweets, jams, and marmalades to take home as gifts—you’ll also want to grab a cream-filled pastry for the ride. "

Ober Mamma

Italian restaurant · 11th Arrondissement

"This is a true trattoria in the middle of Paris, with great platters of antipasti, thin-crust pizzas, and surprisingly big bowls of house-made pasta (definitely not the skimpy starter size—these are mains). The interior immediately suggests a good time with long electric-blue leather benches running the length of the walls, offset by yellow table mats on quintessentially Parisian round tables. Expect a tight squeeze: This place is perpetually packed with locals downing glasses of sparkling Lambrusco and rounding off with a few bites of the sublime tiramisu. "

Le Petit Lutetia

Brasserie · 6th Arrondissement

"La Petit Lutetia has become a favorite ever since it was taken over and face-lifted by Jean-Louis Costes, the man behind city institutions Hôtel Costes and La Société. The décor is still that of a classic Paris bistro, with charming mirrored walls, monogrammed dishes, haphazard stacks of newspapers, and too-small tables. While the food is certainly good, you're here for the people-watching, an endless parade of beautifully outfitted Parisians ducking out for cigarettes between courses and drinking seemingly endless glasses of red wine like water. Photo credit: @parisinfourmonths"

La Fontaine de Mars

French restaurant · Gros Caillou

"In a city filled with good, classic restaurants, it's hard to narrow it down to a few favorites, but Le Fontaine de Mars is one of those old-world bistros that constantly draws you back in. Once inside, no one would blame you for thinking that nothing has changed in a hundred years—and maybe it hasn't: Pink tablecloths, mirrored walls, and retro floor tiles abound. Keep your order to the tried-and-true classics, good steak-frites or coq au vin with a large glass of red is the way to go here. "

Wild & The Moon - Charlot - restaurant vegan Ă  Paris

Vegan restaurant · 3rd Arrondissement

"A welcome addition to Paris's growing roster of health-centric restaurants, Wild & the Moon hits that sweet spot of tasty health-conscious food that is actually filling. The menu has been formulated by vegan nutritionists, with over half of it dominated by juices and tonics—adaptogenic coffee chaga shakes, blue algae smoothies, charcoal lattes, and golden mylks. The food centers around hearty, flavorful grain and lentil bowls packed with vegetables and topped with inventive miso-based vinaigrettes. For the traveler seeking a little balance with their crème brûlée, stocking your hotel room with a mini-bar-friendly assortment of the café's raw bars, chia puddings, cold-pressed juices, and zucchini muffins is never a bad call."

Bouillon Pigalle

French restaurant · 9th Arrondissement

"Bouillon Pigalle is a restaurant of the proletariat. Though it would be more accurate to call it a restaurant of the proletariat of Paris who favor watercress salad, escargots, beef bourguignon, frites, and a menu that is as true to a bistro menu as it can be. Historically, in French restaurant vernacular, a "bouillon" is a restaurant that served bouillon-which is to say good, afforable food, that appealed to the working class. And Bouillon Pigalle is the 2018 version: 300 seats; a festive, bustling vibe; and a crowd willing to wait the better part of an hour for table. No matter. The profiteroles are that good. "

Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie

French restaurant · Des Halles

"This quaint little restaurant serves excellent French food—cassoulet, steak tartare, and chocolate cake—in an unstuffy Art Nouveau dining room. The adjoining shop, complete with ham hocks hanging from the rafters, has a killer selection of French wines, cheeses, and other specialty items."

Café Pinson

Permanently Closed

"The focus here is on California-style organic vegetarian fare: healthy, wheat-free, veggie-centric dishes that don’t skimp on taste. The interior is all wood floors, stone walls, and mix-and-match seating. Come for lunch on weekdays, as dinner can get a little hectic. There's another location in the 10th."

Bistrot Paul Bert

Bistro · 11th Arrondissement

"Bistrot Paul Bert is what any French restaurant ought to be: It features old-school, understated décor; simple but solid food at reasonable prices (including an excellent entrecôte); and brusque waiters. Don’t skip dessert, particularly the not-too-sweet tarte tatin."

Cafe Charlot

Cafe · 3rd Arrondissement

"This bustling bistro is particularly great for late dinners and brunch: The menu is nice and succinct, offering the classics you want after a few glasses of wine. You’ll find steak au cheval, steak tartare, a selection of burgers, and a sampling of salads, plus a small wine list mostly offered by the carafe. This is one of the few places open on Sunday."

Les Deux Magots

Brasserie · Saint-Germain-des-Pres

"Café culture is one of the many institutions that make Paris such a pleasure to visit. An hour spent sitting outside with a café au lait and a croissant watching the Parisians pass by is time well spent. Les Deux Magots in the heart of Saint-Germain has been one of the preferred literary and creative spots forever, with regulars including Picasso and Hemingway. The menu touches the greatest hits; the croque-madame is especially good, but honestly, a coffee or—hell, you’re on vacation—a glass of champagne outside under the canopy is the way to go."

Le Camion Qui Fume

Permanently Closed

"It was only a matter of time before the food truck craze struck Paris; after all, Parisians are already accustomed to street-side crepe vendors. Pioneered by a Californian, Le Camion Qui Fume revolves around burgers of every variety (including veggie and pork) and the corresponding frites. The French are huge fans, so be prepared to wait around forty minutes; the truck's roving location is posted to its website."

Le marché couvert Beauvau

Market · Quinze-Vingts

"Occupying an old-world, village-like square, this market near the Bastille bustles with locals stocking up on their weekly groceries. When you need to catch your breath, head to Le Baron Rouge, a great wine bar just around the corner."

La Closerie Des Lilas

French restaurant · Notre-Dame des Champs

"La Closerie is in the same league as historic cafés like Les Deux Magots and La Palette. And while some might say this Montparnasse standby is past its prime, many insist it’s still very much happening—after all, Hemingway (there’s a handy sign indicating his preferred spot at the bar), Picasso, and Beckett used to hang out here all the time. We recommend springing for a full dinner in the formal main hall. But the brasserie-slash-piano-bar is great for a drink and to get a feel of the place without spending a fortune. Note: In August, the restaurant is open only in the evenings. "

Monoprix

Supermarket · Saint-Gervais

"This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, it does simple clothing—streamlined totes, striped tees—really, really well. And at prices you’d expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet. Other locations: 9th Arrondissement, 6th Arrondissement, plus several others throughout the city."

Breizh Café

Crêperie · 3rd Arrondissement

"We like to take a detour here while shopping on Rue Vieille du Temple. Though the buckwheat crepes are the main draw, there’s a small shop attached to the café that sells jams, ciders, and delicious cheeses."

Marché Saxe-Breteuil

Produce market · l'Ecole Militaire

"With the Eiffel Tower as a stunning backdrop, this market focuses on produce and fresh seafood. There are also stands for escargots, meat, eggs, and a smattering of home goods. Photo credit: Natalia Lopes"

"Located between the 16th and 7th arrondisements, the quiet, well-mannered vibe of this market is well suited to its upscale clientele. (It’s a great option if you’re the kind of shopper who is easily overwhelmed by shouting vendors and pushy customers.) As for the wares, expect fresh bread, flowers, seafood, olives, spices, vegetables, cheese, fruit, and even prepared foods. Friends tell us that farmer Joël Thiébault (who owns a family-run vegetable operation just outside the city) is a standout for his unique, visually stunning heirlooms."

Marché Monge

Market · Jardin des Plantes

"Complete with cobblestone streets, a bubbling fountain, stands full of fresh flowers, and heaps of fresh bread, cheese, and charcuterie, Marché Monge is pretty much the quintessential Parisian market. Jardin des Plantes is only a few blocks away, so it's a great pit stop before an afternoon of picnicking."

Marché Barbès

Market · La Goutte d'Or

"Marché Barbès is underneath a train trestle at the Barbès Metro station, and the rumble of the trains above only adds to the boisterous atmosphere of the place, which is always packed to the brim with shoppers rushing around and haggling with vendors. The goods here can be much less expensive than those in other markets around town, and while you probably won’t find a rare artisanal cheese, you can stock up on necessities for the week without breaking the bank. This neighborhood is also home to a lot of Paris’s immigrants, which means a much more diverse crowd and the added benefit of North and West African spices and peppers for sale. Photo credit: Eric Parker"

Joséphine Chez Dumonet

French restaurant · 6th Arrondissement

"Chez Dumonet has been serving up classic bistro fare (beef bourguignon, a delectable duck confit) for decades, in a dining room that dates back over a century (to 1880 to be exact). Its Belle Epoque vibe is totally charming, made even better by the clientele: You can be assured that everyone in the dining room is likely a grandparent a few times over. Keep in mind that Chez Dumonet offers many half orders, which is key if you’re not staying in a spot that can accommodate leftovers (portions tend to be generous)."

Marché Raspail

Produce market · 6th Arrondissement

"With more than 150 stalls, this is one of the largest open-air markets in Europe, and one any food lover will not want to miss. Beyond fresh veggies, fruits, eggs, and cheese, there are plenty of vendors who sell premade meals, perfect for an impromptu picnic. It happens three times a week. Photo credit: Neil Conway"

Marché des Enfants Rouges

Building · 3rd Arrondissement

"At 400 years old, the Marais-based Marché des Enfants Rouges is worth browsing whether you're hungry or not (you can always stock up on fresh-cut flowers, ephemera, and larder-worthy oils and preserves). But bring an appetite—you'll find a seemingly endless sprawl of food vendors hawking everything from tagines to crepes to hearty sandwiches. Our pick: Chez Taeko's stand, which serves delicious, authentic Japanese fare."

Le Bristol Paris

Hotel · 8th Arrondissement

"Surprisingly, Le Bristol is the only Parisian hotel allowed to perform facial treatments using La Prairie products. Much like the product line itself, the driving force behind the treatment menu is rejuvenation—as evidenced by treatments like the Caviar Lift Facial and the ultrasoothing Swiss Cellular Anti-Aging facial. The best part? You can drop off the littles at the Kids Club for the duration of your treatment. "

Le Grand Salon

Permanently Closed

"The Hotel Particulier’s restaurant and bar (both open to the public) are designed to offer a respite from the craziness of the city. The food (a love letter to classic French cuisine) and the seasonal cocktails (the absinthe-spiked Montmartre julep is dangerously delicious) can easily stand on their own but, when enjoyed within the confines of the property’s hidden gardens, turn into an experience. The gardens also provide the kitchen with fresh ingredients, including honey from the beehives and eggs from the henhouse. The weekend brunch is legendary."

Le Mary Celeste

Restaurant · 3rd Arrondissement

"Named for an infamous shipwreck—the boat was found intact, including its stores of liquor, though the crew had vanished—Le Mary Celeste got a lot of ink in the press when it opened: The young team behind this restaurant in the 3rd is the same one behind taqueria Candelaria. Like its sister restaurant, Le Mary Celeste has a drinks menu that's long and formidable, while the food menu is a bit more succinct: It’s all about oysters and other small plates that are intended to be shared. Though it does take reservations, it's just as easy to grab a seat at the bar."

ARTY DANDY

Boutique · Saint-Germain-des-Pres

"With few exceptions, almost everything that lines the Crayola-colored shelves here rings in at under a hundred euros, whether it's tribal-inspired earrings, slick little sunglasses, or scarves printed with diamonds and spades."

Boutique Aurélie Bidermann - Paris St Pères

Jewelry designer · Saint-Germain-des-Pres

"Aurélie Bidermann is cool, a fact that's readily apparent in the design of her bright, turquoise-tile-accented shop. You'll find her entire line—including plenty of the braided cord bracelets for which she's now famous—plus horn necklaces, painted enamel earrings shaped like leaves, and tasseled pendants."

Astier de Villatte

Chinaware store · Place Vendome

"Though it's well located on Rue Saint-Honoré, this is the sort of spot that's easy to walk right by: There's not really even a sign, and inside it's hushed, dimly lit, cloister-like, and achingly cool, complete with rickety, slightly off-kilter shelves that literally sag under the weight of Astier de Villatte's ceramic tableware. Made from black terra-cotta clay and then finished in the brand's signature milky white, these perfectly imperfect dishes are the hallmark of some of the best-dressed tables we know. You'll also find the house line of geometric-print, gold-rimmed notebooks (made by the last master printer in Paris) and the gorgeously old-fashioned candle and incense collections, along with a handful of oddities, like glassware cast in the shape of skulls and stout little teapots."

The Hoxton, Paris

Hotel · Porte Saint-Denis

"Rivié, one of the two bars in the Hoxton, has a wonderful brasserie, a lovely outdoor garden, and scattered here and there, relaxing little nooks with armchairs and nice lighting. But never mind-skip all that. Head straight for the bar. The bar bar. Settle into the velvet barstool, order a glass of Billecart-Salmon (a rosé champagne) or, depending on your day, a dirty martini. The staff is friendly, the vibe is chill, and as evening slips into night, remember only two very important words: truffle fries. "

Le comptoir

Bistro · La Monnaie

"If you find yourself with time alone, grab one of the single-occupancy tables outside, which face onto the small square; that said, if you’re saddled with the little ones, this spot is blessedly kid-friendly, too. A bottle of red and the boeuf bourguignon—served with lemon rind, pasta, and pine nuts—is the meal to get here."

Le Café du Commerce

French restaurant · 15th Arrondissement

"Smack in the middle of Montmartre, this is a perfect quick pit stop for steak-frites, roast chicken, and côte de boeuf—at great prices. The excellent lunch deal means that crowds swell, but it’s spacious and comfortable enough to accommodate them."

Merci

Store · 3rd Arrondissement

"It's rare to find a store that's so much bigger than its collective parts, but Merci is one of those spots that opened to an endless stream of breathless acclaim—and just as many inches of coverage in the press. This is easy to understand: For one, all profits go to charities for children in Madagascar; for two, it's gorgeous and artful while still feeling accessible to all. Located in an airy, sprawling nineteenth-century fabric factory, this superstore sells the best of pretty much everything. Labels like Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, and Stella McCartney mingle on the clothing racks; Aesop shampoos and Annick Goutal perfumes line the shelves in the comprehensive beauty apothecary; and there are loads of amazing homewares, too, like Caran d'Ache pens, Muuto pendants, and even washi tape. Fresh flowers and gardening tools? Check. Don't leave without visiting one of the three cafés: The Merci Canteen offers veggie-centric lunches and treats, the Cinéma Café is perfect for a quick bite or glass of wine, and the Used Book Café in the basement is our favorite, as you can flip through any one of the 10,000 preloved books that line the walls while you wait for your brunch."

Les Cocottes

Traditional restaurant · Gros Caillou

"The only thing that outshines Les Cocottes’ brilliant use of glass jars and Staub cast-iron cocottes is the menu itself. Chef Christian Constant has developed a robust offering of salads (a nontraditional Caesar salad), soups (pumpkin, seafood bisque), and mains (ratatouille, langoustine ravioli) that satisfy without breaking the bank. And then, of course, there’s Constant’s famous chocolate tart. Those who fly by the seat of their pants will appreciate the no-reservations policy, even though there’s almost always a wait—which isn't bad, as it’s conveniently located near the Jardin du Luxembourg and the Eiffel Tower."

Fermé

Beauty salon · l'Odeon

"American friends who flock to Paris in the summer months swear by this discreet Saint-Germain spa. A session in the Iyashi Dôme after a long-haul flight feels like a reset and somehow really helps with the jet lag. The long, tubelike structure is inspired by the Japanese purification ritual of burying oneself in the sands of hot springs and is said to stimulate the metabolism and accelerate the removal of toxins with infrared rays. The firming facials—using Carita products—help depuff dehydrated skin (so symptomatic of too much time up in the air). "

Studio Rituel

Pilates studio · Notre-Dame des Champs

"Yoga, Gyrotonic, spinning, Reformer Pilates, and Xtend Barre all under one roof make Studio Rituel a popular wellness destination. And the location, a stone’s throw from the Luxembourg Gardens, doesn’t hurt. The Gyrotonic classes, which involve fluid movement and targeted stretches utilizing the seven natural elements of spinal movement, are particularly helpful if you plan to do a lot of walking. As the class ramps up, these stretches are more like a dance, and over time they dramatically increase your flexibility. The studio also offers holistic treatments like massage, reflexology, and Qigong. "

Mariage Frères

Tea store · Saint-Gervais

"Enlisted by Louis XIV's court to explore the tea trade in the 1600s, Nicolas and Pierre Mariage sailed the globe in search of exotic offerings, passing the mantle down from generation to generation. In 1854, Henri and Edouard Mariage settled on land and launched a tea wholesale business in Paris, catering to the city's finest hotels and restaurants. They didn't open their doors to the public until the 1980s—and business has been brisk, to say the least, ever since. Outfitted with colonial furnishings from the original Mariage Frères office (oversize tea canisters, heavy cabinetry, wicker furniture, potted palms), the Marais outpost offers a literal world of teas—along with small eats and a smattering of home goods, like teapots and gorgeously scented candles (Darjeeling is our favorite). There are outposts all over the city."

Ladurée

Pastry shop · 8th Arrondissement

"Thanks to loads of press and a swift global expansion in 2005 (there are now outposts in New York, London, Lebanon, Japan, Sweden, Hong Kong, Brazil, Los Angeles, and more), the Ladurée celadon green is almost as iconic as Tiffany blue or Hermès orange. It all started in 1862 at 16 rue Royale, when writer Louis Ernest Ladurée opened a pastry shop. Though macarons had been kicking around France since the sixteenth century, when Catherine de Medici introduced them from Italy, Ladurée’s grandson revolutionized the concept in 1930 by using a bit of ganache to create a macaron sandwich. Beyond sweets, Ladurée's dinner service is great, with a kid-friendly menu that adults can enjoy, too. Although the original Ladurée is a fixture on the Champs-Elysées, there are multiple locations throughout the city to enjoy. "

Café de Flore

Cafe · Saint-Germain-des-Pres

"This classic Parisian Art Deco café on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain has played host to everyone from Sartre to Picasso. They came for the coffee and the people-watching, and so should you: When the weather’s nice, find a spot on the outdoor patio and get a big café au lait and an omelet."

The Candy Palace

Candy store · Sorbonne

"Styled to look like a 1950s classroom, Georges Marques’ shop offers hundreds of candies sourced from all over France. It’s kind of an amazing way to take a geography lesson, really, particularly because Georges is happy to lead willing students on a tour of the country’s various candy-producing zones. Everything—from the candied fruits to pastilles to calissons to chocolate—is arranged in old-fashioned apothecary jars."

Le Châteaubriand

French restaurant · 11th Arrondissement

"The dining room might not look like all that much, but this is one of those restaurants that changes how people think about food. Chef Inaki Aizpitarte, a pioneer in Paris’s neo-bistro scene, deconstructs traditional French dishes and reassembles them in wildly inventive, globally influenced ways. Despite the kitchen fireworks, it never feels pretentious here, which is probably why locals and tourists alike line up out the door to get a table (reservations are available only for the first seating)."

Avant Comptoir de la Terre

Bar · La Monnaie

"Yves Camdeborde was so busy at his popular Left Bank restaurant, Le Comptoir, that he opted to accommodate the overflow by opening a tiny bar à vin next door. Though it’s standing room only, which is quite common in Paris, the delicious Béarnais-style small plates are worth tempting discomfort. We promise it’s a pleasant experience."

Dim Sum Cantine

Permanently Closed

"Much like the Cantonese-style dumplings that are its claim to fame, this restaurant is compact but mighty. The house-made dim sum (mushroom, shrimp, lacquered pork, and more) is steamed and then immediately served by the basket, accompanied by salad and rice. Lest you forget you’re in Paris, the steamed brioche buns make the perfect dessert. Since this restaurant is often packed, check out the second location in the 2nd arrondissement. "

Aux Prés Cyril Lignac

French restaurant · 6th Arrondissement

"This cozy spot in the 6th is open through the entire month of August, and we’re grateful for that because the dishes are a perfect showcase of France’s summer garden bounty. The burrata starter comes with fresh cherry tomatoes and a pistachio pesto, and the brunch dishes (yes, that means French toast and crepes) revolve around around summer raspberries and strawberries. "

Chez Janou

Bistro · l'Arsenal

"Popular with locals and staff from the nearby galleries, this lively and unpretentious Provençal-centric restaurant offers a set lunch menu that’s a total steal: €14.50 nets you either a main and an appetizer or a main and a dessert. If you opt for the latter, they make the most memorable and dangerously delectable chocolate mousse—which just so happens to be all-you-can-eat."

Hotel Bachaumont

Hotel · Des Halles

"A delight for the design lover, this recently reopened hotel is full of reverence to its Art Deco roots, with modern twists on traditional patterns and furniture. While the beautifully turned-out rooms are cozily petite, the central location right in the Marais and the buzzing, modern bistro-style restaurant downstairs make up for it. "

Amastan Paris

Hotel · 8th Arrondissement

"The fairly recently opened Amastan is the first flagship for a new luxury hotel group by the same name. Located at the upscale cross section of Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, the hotel offers a surprisingly secluded getaway from the streets below, especially if you book a room with a furnished balcony overlooking the leafy garden. The magic here is in the thoughtful, often exquisite design details, like blue herringbone parquet walls and a two-story bookshelf packed with design titles and curios. Plus, the adjacent Pop-In space features art, design, and fashion collaborations curated by the great minds at Purple and London-based branding studio Campbell-Rey. "

HĂ´tel Grand Amour

Hotel · Porte Saint-Denis

"Hotelier Thierry Costes and artist/club impresario André have come together again for a follow-up to their ever-popular Hotel Amour, doubling the space to accommodate the demand for their particular brand of Parisian cool. Each room is individually decorated with some incredible vintage finds and a scattering of artwork by the likes of Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin. Meanwhile, downstairs, the all-day café/bistro is the place to see and be seen by locals, expats, and even Saraiva himself. "

Les Bains-Douches

Hotel · 3rd Arrondissement

"Once a public bathhouse frequented by the likes of Marcel Proust, then resurrected as a fixture of the ’80s and ’90s club scene, Les Bains lives again as a late-night fixture and luxury design hotel. The glossy U-shaped cocktail bar downstairs and the club below tend to host a fashionable crowd, lured in by the serious mixologist-made cocktails. Meanwhile, the whitewashed and elegantly minimal rooms offer a nice counterbalance to the moody, dark interiors below. Hit the restored basement pool—a remnant of its club days—or opt for a suite with a hammam for the full “bains” experience. "

HĂ´tel Henriette Paris

Hotel · Croulebarbe

"This Latin Quarter hotel is proof that affordable doesn’t necessarily mean scruffy and outdated. Though you won’t find all the creature comforts here, first-time hotelier Vanessa Scoffier has done wonders decorating with a mostly pastel palette, vintage finds, and an overall DIY/Scandi aesthetic. Added benefits, like the super thoughtful concierge service and fresh flowers in your room each day, do go a long way. "

Ritz Paris

Hotel · Place Vendome

"After four years of renovations—the first closure in the hotel’s storied history—the Ritz Paris finally reopened. To everyone’s great relief, the renovation kept the old hotel’s charming, traditional style firmly intact (if a bit spruced up), down to the grand window treatments, gilded frames, and copious chandeliers. As ever, the rooms are exceptionally luxurious: Each is outfitted with a marble bathroom, generous windows, and famously soft sheets, with many boasting antique furnishings. The hotel is also home to three restaurants, two of which now have retractable glass ceilings on their patios: L’Espadon, for a traditional, white-tablecloth French dining experience, including breakfast and lunch; Bar Vendôme, a moody brasserie with red velvet booths; and the Ritz Bar, a more casual spot with shared plates and an Art Deco design palette. The hotel is home to a stunning fitness center—also available to private club members—where guests can swim laps in a gorgeous tiled pool or sign up for a day of pampering in the Chanel spa. Amid the bells and whistles, though, we’re probably most excited about the reopening of Bar Hemingway, the old author’s historic haunt that’s now famous for some of the world’s best cocktails. Blessedly, bartender Colin Field is back at the helm."

La Cuisine Paris

Cooking class · 4th Arrondissement

"Offering bilingual cooking classes, La Cuisine Paris teaches the basics of French cooking along with master classes in everything from macarons to poultry. If you're booking in August, make sure to ask whether they are taking Mondays off. "

Le Relais de L’Entrecôte

Restaurant · Saint-Germain-des-Pres

"You know exactly what to expect at this kind-of kitschy, family-owned establishment, and that's the best steak-frites in town, topped with buttery, herby secret sauce. That’s it, and it’s worth lining up for—this is a no-reservations locale. Touristy as it is—locations have opened in London and New York—it remains a local’s mainstay, proof of its excellent quality. There are now locations in the 8th and 6th, too."

Librairie Alain Brieux

Rare book store · Saint-Germain-des-Pres

"A bookshop and antiquarian for over a century, Librairie Alain Brieux specializes in rare scientific and sometimes esoteric titles, though the real allure is its cabinet-of-curiosities vibe. The windows and interior displays are continually refreshed with weird and wonderful assortments of vintage anatomical models, glass eyes, unusual toys, and the like. "

Officine Universelle Buly 1803

Perfume store · Saint-Germain-des-Pres

"The husband-and-wife team behind revamped cosmetics line Buly added a couple degrees of fantasy when furnishing their flagship shop—modeled after a nineteenth-century apothecary—with Tuscan tiled floors, Italian marble counters, intricately carved wooden cupboards, and prettily painted beams. And then there are the products: alcohol-free scents and modern, paraben-free formulations, beautifully packaged in old-fashioned vials and glass jars. Whether you’re in the market or not, this shop is a treat just to look at. "

L/UNIFORM

Luggage store · Saint-Germain-des-Pres

"From cofounder Jeanne Signoles comes this new must-have bag brand—done in canvas, and with a utilitarian, slightly nautical aesthetic. It’s hard not to fall for the simplicity of the concept: Choose the color for the bag, trims, and handles and add your initials in Futura. Stop by the small, sleek, Masamichi Katayama-designed space to specify your bag, suitcase, tote, or pencil case. "

Olympia Le-Tan

Bag shop · 1st Arrondissement

"Best known for her felt clutches based on classic books, fashion designer Olympia Le-Tan’s boutique has a kitschy, boudoir-like feel. Along with her now-iconic bags, you’ll find her line of vamp-meets-girlie printed dresses and accessories here, presented against monogrammed pink wallpaper designed by her father, famed illustrator Pierre Le-Tan. "

Voyageurs du Monde

Travel agency · 2nd Arrondissement

"This fantastic little travel bookshop is owned by the major travel agency across the street. While this may seem like a clever sales ploy, that doesn’t detract from the selection. Here you’ll find novels and nonfiction from around the world—some in English—along with maps, city guides, and a considered edit of handsome and practical travel accessories. Pop in at the ever-changing pop-up next door and you might pick up a jacket or home accessory, too, from some far-flung brand or workers cooperative."

Antoine et Lili

Women's clothing store · 10th Arrondissement

"While this chainlet’s busy, color-soaked printed dresses and quirky shoes might be a little over-the-top for our tastes, the global furniture and home accessory finds are a Parisian go-to for injecting a dose of color into a home. At the shop in the 10th, stock up on printed Nathalie Leté dishware, Mexican oilcloths, woven plastic chairs, and more, which are pleasingly crammed into every last nook in the shop. "

Le Bar

Bar · 8th Arrondissement

"Opulent to the max, Le Bar at the George V is one of our favorite places to tuck into a martini: It’s pricey, but it has atmosphere in spades, along with a well-heeled crowd. It's one of these places that feel like time just stops...or maybe it's just the wine."

La Boîte à Frissons

Gay night club · 3rd Arrondissement

"Inarguably one of the best places to dance in Paris, this aptly named joint (the Thrill Box, en anglais)—tucked away in an alley in the corner of the Marais—offers tango classes until 1 a.m., at which point it morphs into an all-out gay disco."

L'Oiseau Blanc

Fine dining restaurant · Chaillot

"Gracing the rooftop of one of the Peninsula hotels, L'Oiseau Blanc (the White Bird) is named for a French plane that crashed over the Atlantic in 1927 during a transatlantic flight attempt. The restaurant's décor pays homage to the pilots, complete with a small-scale replica of the biplane that looks like it's flying off the terrace. Even if you're not a history buff, you'll appreciate the sweeping views of the Eiffel Tower and the excellent service. "

Costes

Hotel · Place Vendome

"With a now-iconic interior that's dripping in red velvet, Hôtel Costes is one of those spots that has perfected its aesthetic—which, of course, extends to the music. It can get dark and smoky inside, so head out to the enclosed terrace (you can still hear whatever the DJ is spinning inside), which is equally great for either an afternoon glass of wine or an after-dinner cocktail. Plus, the people-watching is always fabulous. "

Point Éphémère

Cultural center · 10th Arrondissement

"Besides hosting concerts, art exhibitions, and live performances, this ex-storage space turned squat cultural institution on the Canal Saint-Martin is also home to one of the area's best bars. On busy days, the local art and hipster crowd spills out onto the banks of the canal with beers and affordable cocktails from noon until...whenever."

HĂ´tel Amour

Hotel · 9th Arrondissement

"Located close to what was once Paris's red-light district, Hôtel Amour takes a deep bow to the neighborhood's tawdry past. Conceived by nightlife visionary André Saraiva (the force behind Le Baron), the black lacquered bar, brasserie, and outdoor terrace are as scene-y as you can get in Paris. Whether for a boozy Saturday brunch or dinner and drinks, the best seats in the house are outdoors, in the leafy courtyard dotted with vintage ’50s cafeteria tables. The brasserie is open late, and you can linger on for hours until it's time to hit the bar or a nightclub in nearby Pigalle."

Rosa Bonheur Buttes Chaumont

Bar · 19th Arrondissement

"This spot is named for the nineteenth-century painter Rosa Bonheur, the first woman to become an officer of the Legion of Honour, whose paintings of horses and cows grace the walls of the Louvre and New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Bonheur used the then-wilds of the Bois de Boulogne to find animals to paint, this Rosa Bonheur is situated in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful garden in the 19th. The emphasis here is on day-drinking, really, though it gets overly packed as the night wears on. It serves great appetizers, plus it's laid-back, unpretentious, and kid-friendly. Should you stay past 10 p.m., expect to follow the crowd onto the dance floor."

Maisie Café.

Vegan restaurant · Place Vendome

"Maisie Café brings a taste of LA juice culture to Paris. The brainchild of former luxury exec turned wellness enthusiast Isabella Capece, Maisie Café has an all-vegan, organic menu that reflects the more health-conscious direction many new Parisian spots are heading in. Breakfast is light, with acai bowls, matcha granola, juices, and shakes, while lunch is pure West Coast in the sense that most of the dishes are bowl-based: brown rice or soba noodles topped with the freshest veggies, nuts, and seeds. The fashion pack who hit Paris for the shows are big fans of Maisie's cures—hot and cold soups, elixirs, and broths for every ailment, all available for delivery. If you do choose to sit in, the interior feels like a balmy escape to Miami with tropical-print walls and pastel seating. "