Kevin K.
Yelp
Okay, let's get something straight here - this is not a farmers market. Farmers market meet on given days (Saturdays, Sundays, etc), there are usually at least more than 2 vendors of each variety, and the hot food selection is typically limited to saucissions and maybe some cous-cous. This obviously isn't. It's much smaller than you think (think food court at a typical American shopping mall) - they have fixed hot food joints, a vegetable/fruits stand, a rotissier, a creperie, and a fromagerie - no transient producteurs, no bouchers, no charcuteries, and I don't see a guy with a stack of vine bottles plying his trade (check the brick and mortar stores on Rue de Bretagne - they are technically not with the Marche). They all speak english to a certain degree, and accept chip-and-sign credit cards (so yanks with the new chip cards should be fine), so think of it more like a touristy food hall in the middle of Marais - like Chelsea market in Manhattan. The locals typically hit Monoprix on Sebestopol instead.
Of course, them being French, don't be a real American schmuck and show up before 10a or past 4p there - most items will be hidden from display and you'll be left at a mostly deserted place.
In terms of food selections, it's a mish-mash. There's definitely more than a few places to choose from - the Italian joint (pizza, pasta, etc). The Lebanese place. The French creperie. The Japanese place, the Haitian/Carib, and the Moroccan joint. With the exception of a Vietnamese pho joint or an Indian place it's a good representation of what you see in places all over Ile-de-France. As for the food? It's okay. I consider it to be cheaper than the sit-down prix-fix selections (menu formule) in the area - for example, I got the Moroccan cous-cous royale with my wife, got a few glasses of mint-tea and a large piece of bread, and that went for about 26 Euros. It ain't bad. Not to say you can't get it better or cheaper elsewhere (that would involves a storefront on the "wrong" side of the 18e Arrondissement, and my French isn't good enough for me to survive ordering there), but it really isn't bad...I consider it to be one of the culinary highlights of my Parisian stint.
Several helpful hints to note:
a) The public restrooms here are free and open to the public when the market is in operation - which if you know Paris...is a real issue for tourists. It's either paid toilets or you can't figure out where it is (the other free toilets in the area is BHV Marais near city hall)
b) There is a flea market oustside on Rue de Bretagne on Sundays...sometimes. See if you can spot it - it's definitely worth the effort.
c) If you want an actual farmers market, there is one in Bastille and one near Porte de Maillot in Neuilly (Marche de Sablons). Needless to say, weekends only, and confirm with Monsieur Google first. D'accord?
d) If you are asian and is missing the asian food? The "secret" Chinatown is on Rue Beaubourg and Rue au Maire, 3 blocks away. Pricing is better too.