The New Orleans Guide
Century Girl
Vintage clothing store · Lower Garden District
"Rare, pricey-but-worth-it vintage is what comes to mind when we think of Century Girl. Jewelry from the eighteenth century, exquisite cocktail attire, and precious trinkets fill the store. It can get expensive in here, but the cost reflects the quality and careful curation behind each piece. There are no duds here. "
Saint Claude Social Club
Temporarily Closed
"Saint Claude Social Club is really code for what the owners describe as a “women’s parlor.” The store is an Aladdin’s cave of fragrance, exquisite costume jewelry, and vintage clothing. At night, the space often becomes a gathering place or “parlor” for the women of New Orleans, with trunk shows, art exhibits, and other creative events very much in line with the exuberant nature of the city. "
Crowe Jewelry
Jewelry designer · Touro
"Crowe founder Lauren Bott started as a costume designer and buyer for film and television. Now she makes her own goods. Bott’s jewelry is delicate and sculptural and often harnesses precious stones. We especially love the earrings, which are discreet enough for everyday wear but rendered in gold and special enough for a night out. If you want to treat yourself to something unique or mark an occasion with something beautiful, make a beeline for Crowe."
Pilot and Powell
Women's clothing store · Touro
"Pilot and Powell’s careful edit includes elevated basics from Rachel Comey, Marni, Ganni, and Rejina Pyo. The modern white space has all the hallmarks of a great shopping experience: spacious fitting rooms, cleverly merchandised racks, and the most gorgeous selection of jewelry and accessories carefully placed on wooden dressers and trunks scattered around the store. "
Domilise's Po-Boy & Bar
Po' boy restaurant · West Riverside
"The Northeast has the sub, Philly has the hoagie, and the New Orleans’s beloved sandwich mascot is the po’boy. And Domilise’s, which celebrated its one hundredth anniversary last year, is the place to try the best. It’s not fancy (the wood-paneled walls and the red and yellow plastic bottles of ketchup and mustard on Formica tables are delightfully retro), but the food is heavenly. If it’s your first time, go for a classic, like the fried, perfectly crisp shrimp or oyster po’boy on a Leidenheimer roll. Be aware that it gets crowded—coming on the earlier side (before noon) is a good idea. "
Galatoire's
Creole restaurant · French Quarter
"Step through the door at this New Orleans dining institution, and you might forget what decade it is. The dining room—full of French bistro chairs, white tablecloths, and ceiling fans—seems virtually unchanged since 1905, when the restaurant opened. But it’s the crowd, decked out in their old-school Sunday best (even during the week), that is really transportive. We’re talking gents in bow ties and seersucker suits (jackets are required), and ladies in pale-pink and pistachio dresses. The menu is similarly unaffected by modern trends, full of classic dishes like the seafood okra gumbo (Louisiana shrimp, oysters, shellfish stock, and okra in a light roux) and the avocado and crabmeat salad. This is New Orleans as its best, and your experience in the city is practically incomplete without a meal here. "
Arnaud's Restaurant
Fine dining restaurant · French Quarter
"If you haven’t been to Sunday brunch at Arnaud’s to listen to live Dixie jazz, have you really been to New Orleans? Some locals would answer with a resounding no. A French Quarter restaurant on lively Bourbon Street, Arnaud’s (like its iconic neighbor around the corner, Galatoire’s) has been around for over a century. Waiters in black tie deftly waltz around the grand, high-ceilinged dining room to serve shrimp bisque, crab cakes, Belgian waffles, and chicken and andouille gumbo. It’s also home to French 75—one of our favorite bars in the city, especially for its Garden Mayahuel (Cabeza tequila, mezcal, ginger, pineapple, basil, and lime juice), once the sun sets. "
Central Grocery & Deli
Italian grocery store · French Quarter
"Like the po’boy, beignet, and gumbo, the muffuletta is a classic New Orleans culinary treat. Picture a thick loaf of Sicilian sesame bread stuffed with salami, ham, pepperoni, marinated olives, and pickled vegetables and you get the idea. And the place to get what is possibly the city’s best version is at Central Grocery, in the French Quarter. It makes sense, as the sandwich is said to have been invented by founder Salvatore Lupo, a Sicilian immigrant who opened the place in 1906. It’s worth ordering more than one, as the sandwiches keep well and make great midnight snacks. "
Coquette
New American restaurant · Irish Channel
"Coquette’s seasonal dishes flit between Southern classics and more-contemporary interpretations of regional favorites. While the menu may be short, it’s never boring. Case in point: the catfish dip that’s paired with pickled beets, speckled trout, and preserved kumquats and the local grilled Gulf shrimp. The space is beautiful, too. It’s grand but not fussy, with brick walls, the original 1880s ceiling, and elegant chandeliers that make an afternoon lunch feel special. If you’re in town during the summer months, Coquette’s special fried chicken and champagne nights are a fun (and delicious) time. "
LUVI Restaurant
Asian restaurant · West Riverside
"The interior of Luvi screams a good time. Designed by Jennifer Wade, the wife of chef Hao Gong, the design is loud-in-a-good-way—turquoise walls, floral-printed chairs, and abundant use of print and texture. All of it hints at the deeply complex, fun-to-eat food coming out of the kitchen. The restaurant is named for chef Gong’s two kids Lulu (Lu) and Violet (Vi), and the menu fuses both the chef’s heritage (Gong was raised in Hong Kong) and his Japanese culinary training. It’s a beautiful marriage. Our suggestions: a bowl of mama’s dumplings, with its salty, sweet-and-sour broth; the smashed cucumbers; and more than one dish of the Million Dollar Baby, a satisfying mix of raw and seared tuna. To make it even better, order a couple rounds of the citrusy, gingery Juniper Chu Hai cocktails, made with shochu."
N7
French restaurant · St Claude
"In the Bywater, N7 is a sexy, under-the-radar space serving understated French bistro food. The building has, at various points in time, operated as a tire shop and a stable, and now, as a restaurant, gives off rustic, shabby-chic vibes in spades. The wine list is European-focused and offers plenty of biodynamic and organic options. Much of the menu is devoted to canned fish (a delicacy in the Basque region) like squid and sardines, plated with pickles and preserved lemons. Steak au poivre, matchstick-thin fries, and the most stunning imported anchovies (plus a crusty baguette) is our standing order—always with a glass of red wine. Take a seat at the bar—or cool off in the courtyard—admire the old French movie posters on the walls, and soak up the buzzy, eclectic crowd at this neighborhood gem."
Saffron nola
Indian restaurant · East Riverside
"Saffron is a family-owned business that started out as a catering company (in operation for twenty-six years) but is now a full-fledged restaurant on Magazine Street. Come with a crowd and pile the table high with Indian delicacies like Bombay-style shrimp with tomato remoulade, crabmeat pudha, stacks of lentil pancakes, a heap of buttery roti, and all the accompaniments including raita, gobi, and pickles. The menu is a fusion of Indian and local flavors, and the dishes are designed to share. Equal attention is lavished on the tongue-in-cheek cocktail list. The Nah-ma-stay Swizzle, for instance, is a muddle of rum and roasted mango and is completely addicting."
Brigtsen's Restaurant
Contemporary Louisiana restaurant · Carrollton
"In an old Victorian cottage in Uptown, Brigtsen’s feels like a classic dining room from the 1800s, complete with original fireplaces, heavily draped windows, and white tablecloths. Settle in for a long supper of Creole and Acadian dishes, like the signature gumbo or the smoked pork chop with andouille sweet potato hash. Pro tip: Come with a crowd, if only to order the famous seafood platter. Heaped with grilled and baked redfish, oysters, scallops, and whatever else is in season, it’s served with shrimp cornbread and smothered okra—and it is sensational. A classic bread pudding is the best way to round off the meal. "
Satsuma Cafe
Cafe · East Carrollton
"The Satsuma Café Kale Salad, made of all local ingredients, fresh, and organic, features Lacinato kale, Parmesan dressing, and (this is New Orleans after all) a piece of bacon on the side. This is the BEST SALAD in the city, hands down. A few blocks away from Desire Street, (which kind of says it all), and in the stunning Baywater, this is the hippyish place to go for great coffee and espresso, fresh ginger muffins, super great Nutella banana pancakes, fresh BLT’s with real tomatoes, hummus, bagels and lox with all the sides, and fresh juices made to order. It’s also all organic. Sit at the Squirrel Table and read the New York Times, or a local paper with the locals (and believe me, they’re there). It has a totally great vibe and fresh, fresh, fresh organic food. These guys make an effort and it shows."
French Truck Coffee
Coffee shop · French Quarter
"Each location of French Truck—there are three, though the Uptown outpost is our favorite—is wonderfully cheerful, decked out in bright shades of yellow and blue. The coffee is directly sourced from farms throughout Africa and South America, the fresh beans are roasted in small batches for better flavor, and the milk comes from a local dairy. Every detail of the experience is carefully considered. Pick up a few bags of beans to stash in your freezer on the way out—it makes a great memento of your trip. "
The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans
Hotel · Central Business District
"This historic Beaux Arts building on the edge of the French Quarter was a department store in its past life. Now it’s home to the Ritz-Carlton, which brought new energy to the city’s hotel scene when it opened in 2000. Although the hotel is part of a big luxury chain, the feeling is unmistakably New Orleans, with opulent guest rooms swagged in silk curtains and intricately patterned textiles that give off a fun, nineteenth-century vibe. And the location on Canal Street means you’re in walking distance of almost everything you’ll want to see over a few days in the city (like the French Quarter, Louis Armstrong Park, and the Central Business District). There’s also a 25,000-square-foot spa for all manner of massages, facials, body scrubs, and mani-pedis. "
Windsor Court Hotel
Hotel · Central Business District
"This four-star hotel just underwent a $22 million dollar restoration—it's a really nice, solid option, with all the requisite amenities (and no ghosts). "
Soniat House
Hotel · French Quarter
"All of the 31 rooms at this small, luxury boutique hotel are furnished with New Orleans antiques, which is just one of the many ways that the owners, Rodney and Frances Smith, make it clear that they care. In the 80s, they bought a handful of adjacent historic homes, and strung them together into Soniat, preserving them all in the process. There are two things to remember: 1. The hotel isn't haunted; 2. They serve homemade biscuits in bed every morning. "
The Sazerac Bar
Restaurant · Central Business District
"After Hurricane Katrina, The Roosevelt—which had been operating as one of New Orleans' more opulent hotels for more than 100 years—shut down. But now, after a full restoration, which uncovered some of its original wonderful details that had been layered over by intervening remodels, it's back, and as luxurious as ever (it's now part of the Waldorf Astoria family). Besides being home to The Sazerac Bar (and the birthplace of the drink), The Roosevelt also claims that the construction of the Airline Highway—which connects Baton Rouge and New Orleans—is all thanks to them, since former governor Huey Long spent so much time there he wanted a shorter drive. "
Hotel Monteleone
Hotel · French Quarter
"So here's the story: Antonio Monteleone, a shoe-making nobleman from Sicily who moved to New Orleans in the 1800s and established a cobbler shop, bought this 64-room hotel in 1886. And then he bought another one and merged them together. It's still in the same family today, and it's still a four-star hotel, thanks to multiple renovations over the course of the last century. Incidentally, it's also supposedly haunted, with many reports of ghost sightings and other strange occurrences. Not necessarily a bad thing, since many luminaries have made the hotel their home, including Tennessee Williams, Ernest Hemingway, William Faulkner, and Truman Capote. "
District Donuts Sliders Brew
American restaurant · Lower Garden District
"Add this cool little spot to the lengthy list of reasons to spend an afternoon traversing Magazine Street. While the rotating roster of from-scratch donuts (everything from classic glazed to slightly out-there savory, bacon-topped versions) is the obvious draw, it’s the small-batch coffee (cold brews are available on tap—yes, really—or in giant glass jugs to take home) that has folks flocking here in droves. And it’s not all carbs and caffeine either: The seasonal slider selection (pulled pork, fried chicken, shrimp Rangoon), which goes into effect at 11 am daily, is pretty impressive. "
Cafe Beignet on Royal Street
Restaurant · French Quarter
"Come to this French Quarter standby for the beignets (they’re slightly crispier and less doughy than others in town), and stay for the classic Cajun breakfast and lunch. Crawfish omelets, roast beef po-boys, and jambalaya are served on paper plates but easily rival their fancy restaurant counterparts when it comes to taste. There are two locations, one on Royal Street and a second on Bourbon Street. The latter is famous for daily, live jazz shows and the impromptu dance parties they incite."
Cafe Du Monde French Market
Cafe · French Quarter
"Café du Monde is one of those special places that totally lives up to the hype: The beignets (a powdered-sugar-dusted cross between a fritter and a doughnut) have been made the same way since 1862—when the café first opened—and are best enjoyed with a cup of chicory café au lait (the flavor has a hint of chocolate and is especially smooth). Smaller outposts are sprinkled throughout New Orleans, but first-timers should make it a point to stop by the original French Market café, which is open 24/7 and has a partially exposed kitchen so that patrons—kids in particular love this—can watch their beignets being made from scratch. Grab a seat in the café to avoid the line."
Parkway Bakery & Tavern
Bakery · Bayou St. John
"Whether Parkway Bakery & Tavern has the best Po’Boys in town is a matter of opinion, but it’s a fact that theirs are backed by over 100-years worth of experience, which really says something. The menu offers dozens of varieties, all of which can be enhanced with bacon. With its rickety floor and wood-paneled walls, the Tavern lunch counter hasn’t changed much in the last century, the food and drink offering, on the other hand, now includes turkey and alligator gumbo, local beers, and craft cocktails. "
Mahony's Po-Boys & Seafood  - Uptown
Po’ boys restaurant · East Riverside
"Here’s what you need to know about a Mahoney’s Po’Boy: The ingredients (there are 20 or so different combinations) are always fresh, the bread is exclusively from Leidenheimer bakery, and they come in two sizes—regular and large. They also taste amazing, and when paired with one (...or all) of the traditional Southern sides—fried tomatoes and Creole slaw are fan favorites—are next level awesome. "
St Roch Market
Food court · St Roch
"This history-rich space offers a stable of exciting vendors (fresh produce from local farms, cold-pressed juice, prepared foods) all under one roof. St. Roch Market is a pretty rad gourmet destination. "
Hollygrove Market & Farm
Permanently Closed
"The mission of this volunteer-driven, sustainability-minded urban farm is to provide easy access to fresh produce—sourced from backyard growers and local micro-farms—to anyone who wants it via a cooperative market or a twenty-five-dollar weekly produce box. The farm itself is open to visitors and serves as training ground for anyone looking to start a community garden or farm of their own. "
Keife & Co
Wine store · Central Business District
"This adorable corner market specializes in pretty much everything you need to host a great cocktail party from caviar, charcuteries, and cheese, to olives, salts, New Orleans-specific spirits, and excellent wines. They also cater."
Hansen's Sno-Bliz
Ice cream shop · West Riverside
"Snow balls are a big deal in New Orleans, and there are a handful that stand-out as rightful heirs to the throne. One of these is Hansen's Sno-Bliz, which is still owned and operated by the Hansen family. In fact, Ernest Hansen invented the first ice shaving machine back in 1939, while his wife Mary got busy concocting flavors (it's a complicated dance of ice, syrup, ice, syrup, etc.). "
Swan River Yoga Mid-City Mandir
Yoga studio · Mid-City
"This two-story yoga studio—helmed by Keith Porteous and Michelle Baker—wins points for both its teachers and the space, a two-story former public library that the duo restored post Katrina. It is gorgeous—airy, bright—with a giant mural commissioned by the Works Progress Administration during the Great Depression that they uncovered while rehabilitating the building. Besides a traditional menu of classes (many of which are 90 minutes), they offer sound baths, acroyoga, pre-natal yoga, and body work. And, there's an on-site vegan café serving delicious dals. "
New Orleans Athletic Club
Athletic club · French Quarter
"A favorite of our friend Michael Stipe, the NOAC has been operating since 1872—though originally out of founder J.G. Aleix's backyard (there were only 14 members). Its digs are considerably swankier and statelier now, though it still has its old-world vibe. They offer day passes to hotel guests for $20 (and they now allow women). "
Belladonna Day Spa
Permanently Closed
"Part sprawling gift shop, part day spa, this is one of the main places in New Orleans to go for facials, massages, and body scrubs. They also do the less intensive stuff, including pedicures and waxing."
Free To Be Power Yoga Downtown
Yoga studio · Central Business District
"Occupying a soaring, warehouse-like space, Reyn Studio—named after owner, Reyn Lambert—is a hybrid gym/yoga studio. In that same vein, most of the classes are a mix, too: There's yoga-lates, dance cardio, yoga for runners, and a meditation session (which is actually free). The yoga here is generally more athletic, and they offer a lot of community classes that are nicely priced at $7."
Fat Boy Pantry
Sandwich shop · Lower Garden District
"Fat Boy Pantry curates everything we ever want to eat under one roof…in sandwich form. Ice cream (served in sweet buns), fried oysters, and ground lamb all get sandwiched between two carb-y slabs. The clean, all-white décor, La Marzocco coffee machine, and scoops of homemade ice cream all contribute to the modern soda fountain feel. Come for breakfast, come for lunch, come for dessert—the juice is always fresh, and the vibe fun. "
Drip Affogato Bar
Coffee shop · Central Business District
"While most of us are familiar with affogato—the Italian pick-me-up of ice cream “drowned” in hot espresso—we’ve never encountered a café solely dedicated to this one thing. The flavor combinations here are endless, though we especially love the bananas Foster, the tiramisu, and the matcha (but you can’t go wrong with the classic vanilla-and-espresso combination). Ice cream aside, the coffee holds its own. Skip dessert at whatever restaurant you’re eating dinner at and come here. "
The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden
Sculpture museum · City Park
"One of our favorite New Orleans experiences has nothing to do with eating or drinking. This enchanting five-acre garden is perfect for a wander around ponds and magnolia and live oak trees. There are also sixty-four sculptures by artists like Henry Moore and Kenneth Snelson. Originally intended as an offshoot of the New Orleans Museum of Art, the garden is an attraction all on its own. Come in the early morning or hazy late afternoon to see these wonders come alive when the light is most reflective."
Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro
Jazz club · Marigny
"Spread out over three rooms in a refurbished 1800’s building—there’s a designated space for a restaurant, bar, and performance space—Snug Harbor is a one-stop shop for good food, good drinks, and great jazz. At about $20 a pop, concert tickets are not cheap, but the impressive roster of local talent and the fun ambiance justifies the splurge. There are shows at 8pm and 10pm every night."
Preservation Hall
Live music venue · French Quarter
"Preservation Hall is an institution: This art gallery-turned-concert hall has been at it for the last 50 years, nurturing local talent and forming a traveling house band to help spread jazz around the world. The space is cramped and the lines to get in are long, so don’t bank on snagging one of the few seats. And while there’s no booze served inside (hence the all-ages-welcome policy), they do allow outside drinks. There are shows at 8pm, 9pm, and 10pm every night."
Candlelight Lounge
Lounge · Treme
"Candlelight is one of few operating live-music bars in Katrina-ravaged Treme. That said, it always was—and still is—one of the best. The bar itself (a freestanding yellow hut) is modest, the drinks are a fraction of what most clubs charge, and the jazz is top notch. For years Wednesday nights have been reserved for the famous Treme Brass Band, which always performs to a full house and never ever disappoints. In short: This is the place to go for that elusive “authentic” New Orleans experience. "
Hotel Peter and Paul
Hotel · Marigny
"It’s taken four years of meticulous restoration of an 1860s church, schoolhouse, rectory, and convent, but this highly anticipated hotel in the Marigny is finally open. Between them, the four buildings contain seventy-one guest rooms, a bookstore, a café, and a bar, and it’s about as far as you can get from a chain-hotel experience. Each room is individually decorated by New York City–based design firm ASH NYC (it specializes in historic updates) with antique furniture and lighting, hand-painted tiles in the bathroom (a few have clawfoot tubs), and a canopy bed—a cozy, throwback touch that’s not found much these days. The café is another reason to book. Run by Church Alley Coffee Bar, it’s the best place in the neighborhood for your morning cortado. "
La Maison Creole
Event venue · Harvey
"Don’t be fooled by the large dining room and army of waiters: This is predominantly a live-music venue that happens to serve food (pulled-pork sandwiches, burgers, alligator balls) and drinks. The music—mostly local bands performing on three stages, sometimes simultaneously—starts at around 7pm every night and keeps going well into the following morning. "
Mask Gallery
Collectibles store · French Quarter
"Masks are a defining element of Mardi Gras celebrations and have become a symbol of sorts for the city as a whole, making them the souvenir of choice for tourists. The super intricate iterations sold at this Royal Street gallery are nothing short of heirloom quality—a far cry from the flimsy plastic stuff you can find in every run of the mill gift shop. In addition to the leather, feather, and bejeweled stunners handmade by resident artist Dalili, there’s also a selection of imported masks from Venice. "
Zoofari Cafe at Audubon Nature Institute
Non-profit organization · Audubon
"Within the Audubon umbrella there's an aquarium (fish galore, plus a hurricane simulator and dive experience), a zoo (all the standard fare plus a petting zoo, a dinosaur adventure, and a water park), and a butterfly garden and insectarium (Louisiana bugs are stuff of legend). In addition, you'll find an IMAX and a park with tennis, stables, golf, and running paths."
Pippen Lane
Children's clothing store · Irish Channel
"Everything at this long-standing New Orleans children's boutique is hands-down adorable, whether it's a red eyelet Stella McCartney onesie, a Hawaiian-print romper, or an Ollie & Bess crawler stamped with crocodiles. There are picks for older kids, too, including glittery jeans from Joe's, art deco-inspired party dresses from Tutu du Monde, and multi-colored boys buttondowns from Andy & Evan."
New Orleans City Park
Park · City Park
"Numerous playgrounds, an amusement park, a hand-carved wooden carousel, paddle boat rentals, and a botanical garden are just a few of the offerings at this historic, 1,300-acre park. There are also tennis courts, running trails, and a stand of oak trees that date back 800 years. While the park was devastated by Katrina (it was almost completely submerged under water for weeks), locals banded together to resurrect it to its former glory and then some. "
Louisiana Children's Museum
Children's museum · City Park
"A climbing wall, eye exhibit (where kids can see what it would feel like to see the world through the eyes of a honeybee, rabbit, or hawk), and a mock grocery store are just a few of the exhibits here, which is a great place to let a little one run wild on a rainy afternoon. There's a lot on display that's specific to the region, too, ensuring a mini history lesson."
St Charles Street Car Tours
Tourist information center · Uptown
"For more than 150 years (the longest to continually operate in the world), the New Orleans streetcars have shuttled people around the city. The cars are beautiful—mahogany seats, brass fittings—and slow-moving, making them perfect for seeing a larger swathe of the city with kids. Meanwhile, if you take the Charles Street line, make a pit stop for lunch at Superior Seafood. We've been told that it has a great kids menu (as well as gluten-free options). "
Studio Be
Art gallery · Bywater
"Artist Brandan Odums (aka BMike) has made his 35,000-square-foot studio in the Bywater an ode to African American legends like Martin Luther King, Jr., Harriet Tubman, and Malcolm X. These spray-painted murals take up entire walls that rise as high as twelve feet, providing social commentary, inspiration, and an education to the studio’s visitors from Odums’s point of view. "
The Country Club
Restaurant · Bywater
"This extravagant haven is New Orleans’s best-kept secret. It’s a mansion dating from the late 1800s, complete with a heated saltwater pool, sauna, and a restaurant serving up Creole fare that tastes just as good poolside as it does in the frescoed dining room. A mere fifteen bucks gets you access to this Bywater oasis. During the city’s muggy, humid months, escaping to the Country Club for fries and cold rosé by the water is akin to finding water in the desert. Trust us. "
Bacchanal Fine Wine & Spirits
Wine bar · Bywater
"Bacchanal is pure magic on a steamy New Orleans night. It’s part wine shop, part bar, and part music venue—you’ll want to make sure to spend time in the courtyard, bathed in torchlight. This is the place to take your glass of vino and cheese plate while enjoying some very talented up-and-coming jazz acts (check the website for a full schedule). "
French 75 Bar
Cocktail bar · French Quarter
"Although French 75 is part of the legendary restaurant Arnaud’s (they share the same 1918 building in the French Quarter), it’s worth a stop in its own right. The cocktails here are mixed by a team of New Orleans’s finest bartenders, and we’d recommend the namesake drink (Courvoisier cognac, cane sugar, lemon juice, and Moët & Chandon). If you don’t plan to move on to Arnaud’s for dinner, the small bites here—like the Brie and jalapeño-stuffed shrimp or black-eyed pea beignets—will tide you over until your next meal."
Napoleon House
Restaurant · French Quarter
"The Napoleon House is the tourist trap that is well worth the hassle to visit. Smack in the heart of the French Quarter, it is the enclave that was built for Napoleon had he ever arrived into New Orleans. He didn’t. The walls, the paintings, the bar, and the bar staff however, breathe history and realness. They have vegan beans and rice for lunch, and it’s worth the wait in line for the sweet tea alone. If you’re going to have a Sazerac in New Orleans, have it here. Have two, and don’t call us."
Bar Tonique
Bar · French Quarter
"Okay, this is the real deal: easily one of our favorite return-to bars in New Orleans. This joint concocts drinks according to the recipe from the year the drink was invented. So you get lots of authentic pre–Civil War and 1920s recipes, made from rum and gin (I don’t drink gin, ever!…but I do here…) It’s basic, with little fanfare, and there's no need to shout here—there’s enough of that three blocks away. This is real, carefully and lovingly prepared, super authentic, and reasonable. And on Sundays, there are a couple of crock-pots in the back booth with beans and rice to deaden or carb out the inevitable weekend hangover. "
Lilette
French restaurant · East Riverside
"Lilette has been dominating Best-Of lists from the day chef and owner John Harris opened its doors on Magazine Street back in 2001 (no small feat in a town flush with French eateries). What sets this fun-by-day, romantic-by-night spot apart is its expertly curated menu: While some dishes (bouillabaisse, duck confit) have held pride of place for years, new items are regularly introduced to accommodate seasonal ingredients and keep regulars on their toes. What’s more, the dimly-lit, wine-colored dining room is considered by many to be Uptown’s prettiest. "
La Petite Grocery
Bistro · East Riverside
"This storefront on Magazine Street has a romantic past that includes a stints as a stable, as the local tea and coffee depot, and a flower shop. It’s a space that’s always provided the neighborhood with quality provisions, and not much has changed. These days, it’s occupied by La Petite Grocery, which serves one of the best brunches in town. The food is locally sourced and simple but ridiculously tasty: Stone-ground grits with just a little salt and butter, a jar of assorted pickles to nibble, and NOLA’s iteration of a lobster roll—the Gulf shrimp roll—are a few standouts. While the crisp white tablecloths and low, golden lighting are undeniably elegant, Le Petit Grocery still maintains a casual ambiance that’s typical of New Orleans."
Commander's Palace
Restaurant · Garden District
"Sprawled out on a residential block in the Garden District—across from one of the city's coolest old cemeteries—Commander’s Palace is first and foremost a vision of Victorian architecture. Inside, the foyer is finished with embroidered toile panels by artist Richard Saja, and the main dining room is decked out to the nines is hand-painted wallpaper and starched linens; business attire is encouraged. The “Haute Creole” menu, which in the past has been curated by Emeril Lagasse and Jamie Shannon, abides by current chef Tory McPhail’s strict "dirt to plate within 100 miles" policy. On weekends, the jazz brunch is the stuff of legend. Get the Cochon de Lait eggs Benedict. There is a dress code."
Drago's - Hilton Riverside
Seafood restaurant · Central Business District
"Ok, so it lives in the lobby of a big hotel chain, but Drago's also happens to serve the best charbroiled oysters in town, the recipe for which was developed by a member of the family that's been running Drago’s since 1969. A lot of attention is paid to the freshness of seafood—everything from oysters to lobster to shrimp is caught and served same day. The gumbo is also pretty excellent."
Mosca's
Italian restaurant · Jefferson Parish
"This family-run institution was Bruce Paltrow’s favorite. Years later, it’s still the best Italian-meets-Creole meal one can ask for—well worth the 30 minute drive from the city. Much like its white clapboard exterior, the two-room dining area is totally no-frills and a bit bric-a-brac (the servingware doesn't necessarily match), but the menu, though fairly concise, is full of elaborate dishes like the famous Chicken a la Grande, Spaghetti Bordelaise, and homemade pineapple fluff—all of which are served family style. "
Herbsaint
French restaurant · Central Business District
"This is a finer, more romantic dining experience from the same people behind Butcher, Cochon, and Pêche. The vibe is mellow, with a French/Cajun-inflected menu that’s pretty heavy on sharable small plates (don’t miss the gnocchi). The St. Charles Avenue location is conveniently central; try to grab a table by one of the massive windows or outside for some solid people watching. At festival time, management has been known to set up a designated outdoor area."
Petite Amelie
Permanently Closed
"After a day or so of nothing but extremely heavy (albeit, delicious) Southern food, a crisp salad starts to sound really good. Come to Cafe Amelie’s casual, but equally tasty offshoot for a light breakfast, or a bowl of seasonal soup and a heaping plate of the aforementioned salad (the Ponchatoula Strawberry is particularly refreshing)."
Cochon Restaurant
Cajun restaurant · Lower Garden District
"Cochon was one of the first new restaurants to open after hurricane Katrina and therefore holds a very special place in locals’ hearts. But the food totally holds up, too. The menu—which goes well with the rustic, classic bistro-like set-up—can be described as pork-centric Southern, with dishes like fried boudin with pickled peppers and Louisiana cochon with turnips taking top billings."
PĂŞche Seafood Grill
Seafood restaurant · Lower Garden District
"Over the course of two years, Donald Link's newest endeavor—a traditional New Orleans seafood spot in the Warehouse District—has managed to earn two James Beard awards and instant respect from locals and visitors alike. What’s really cool is that a good chunk of the dishes (grilled tuna, smothered catfish, chicken diablo) are prepped on a hearth, which, thanks to chef Ryan Prewitt's open kitchen, is clearly visible to diners. Then there’s the impressive raw bar—home of the Pêche seafood platter—and fun snacks, like fish sticks and hushpuppies."
Cowbell
Permanently Closed
"The heart of this husband-and-wife operation is undoubtedly delicious, no-frills comfort food: Chili-cheese fries, Gulf shrimp quesadillas, and something called It's All Schnitz & Giggles (pork tenderloin, grits, and shrimp gravy). It's all served in a fun, low-key setting—it used to be a filling station back in the day—with the option to take your meal al fresco. The grass-fed burger (get it topped with bacon, eggs, cheese, homemade ketchup) is best washed down with a cold beer from the bar or a house-special “adult” soda. "
Domenica
Italian restaurant · Central Business District
"The name Domenica stands for “Sunday” in Italian, which is fitting since the vibe here is as chill as it is festive. Come here for the best pizza this side of the Mississippi (the roasted carrot pie is unreal) and really great veggie dishes, like the whole head of cauliflower and fried Tuscan kale. Even more reason to love this place? It’s situated in the ultra luxe Roosevelt hotel which is worth a visit, and hosts a daily happy hour with half-price pizza and wine. "
Sylvain
American restaurant · French Quarter
"Sure, it’s housed in a creaky, 18th-century townhouse in the French Quarter, with a tattered American flag on the wall and a resident ghost (a madam who ran a brothel here in the 20’s), but what separates this gastropub from others with similar aesthetics is how genuinely cool it is. For the most part, the menu is standard comfort food—but with unexpected tweaks, like champagne and fries or the buttermilk-fried chicken sandwich. There’s also a well-stocked bar that’s perfect for anyone dining alone and a tiny but super dreamy outdoor seating nook. "
The Italian Barrel
Italian restaurant · French Quarter
"Last year, the dining space was expanded from six tables to 16, and it’s no surprise they have zero problems filling them all as Chef Samantha Castagnetti is a pro when it comes to churning out exceptional Northern Italian dishes. The homemade pumpkin ravioli, penne alla vodka, and Porcini mushroom ravioli are perfect as are the desserts (get the espresso crème brulee)."
Doris Metropolitan New Orleans
Steak house · French Quarter
"On the heels of an insanely successful outpost in Costa Rica (and a spot in Israel before that), restaurateurs Itai Ben Eli and Doris Reba Chia chose the Crescent City for their newest venture: A steakhouse specializing in dry-aged meat, which is why the on-site dry-aging room and a full-time “meat sommelier” make sense. The menu also offers Mediterranean-inflected specialties like lamb chops with tahini yogurt and fresh Gulf fish with a side of tzatziki. The enclosed courtyard offers a nice place to escape the madness of Chartres Street. "
Irene's
Italian restaurant · French Quarter
"This French Quarter Creole/Italian gem is notorious for its hours-long waits (they’re pretty stingy about reservations here), but that’s ok, the adjoining piano bar makes for a great place to pass the time. Once you get seated in a tiny, lovingly cluttered dining room, go straight for the seafood—crab au gratin, shrimp bisque, and all manner of oysters—or the house special duck St. Philip. The more traditional Italian fare (fresh pasta, roasted chicken, panna cotta) is pure garlic-y goodness. "
Gautreau's Restaurant
Fine dining restaurant · Uptown
"This Uptown jewel box of a restaurant (it’s set in a converted pharmacy, though you wouldn’t know it from its elegant interior and pretty but totally nondescript facade) is known for discovering and nurturing fresh talent—most recently, it’s James Beard-winner Chef Sue Zemanick. As evidenced by dishes like pork osso buco with apple-fennel gremolata, foie gras torchon, and coconut-lemongrass semifreddo, the focus here is on refined American food with a nod to traditional French flavors."
Sac-a-Lait
Temporarily Closed
"In addition to generating some major excitement from the food world, this months-old restaurant from husband-and-wife team, Cody and Samantha Carroll, is already a favorite with locals, which is pretty impressive for a newcomer. It’s housed in a massive old cotton mill in the Warehouse District, so diners can spread out and keep an eye on the sprawling open kitchen while enjoying the small but mighty seafood-centric menu."
Atchafalaya Restaurant
Contemporary Louisiana restaurant · East Riverside
"Owned by couple, Rachel and Tony Tocco, Atchafalaya has culinary roots that reach as far back as 1924, when it was a mom-and-pop Italian joint. The food is traditional Creole, the staff friendly, and most of the materials used to rebuild post Katrina were salvaged from the storm, making the whole experience an homage to its storied past. While the daily dinner menu is great, the weekend brunch (shrimp and grits, savory bread pudding) is extraordinary, thanks in no small part to the famous Bloody Mary bar and live music."
Brennan's
Restaurant · French Quarter
"Though it’s pretty great all around, this Royal Street landmark (it was established in 1946 and has recently undergone a top-to-bottom revamp) is most famous for three things: the house-special brandy milk punch, the elaborate breakfast spread (Creole citrus crepes, crispy veal cheek grillades, escargot omelet…), and the lavish, borderline kitschy decor. Each of the eight dining rooms has its own theme but shares the same pomp (crushed velvet seating, starched tablecloths), which explains the strict dress code (i.e. jackets are required at dinner). Speaking of dinner, with chef Slade Rushing at the helm, the new menu is a lighter, more refined version of the original. And get the Bananas Foster: The recipe and table-side flambeing methods haven't changed in over 50 years."
KREWE
Sunglasses store · French Quarter
"Krewe founder Stirling Barrett knows how to create an experience. Krewe is fundamentally a sunglasses store, but it’s also a hidden spot to have a coffee and just hang out. Like the city behind the brand, these frames are unusual, sometimes quirky, and beautifully crafted. Set aside time to visit Barrett’s plant-filled, showroom-style store and you won’t be able to leave without indulging in a pair of these special frames. Slow burners, indecisive shoppers, and general passersby can take a seat in the sunny, brick-walled alley outside for a coffee break. "
Pied Nu
Women's clothing store · Audubon
"This is one of those shops that manages to embody an entire aesthetic sensibility: It feels like a glamorous, French-tinged beach house where everything is perfectly effortless, and, well, perfect. And like a beach house, there's kind of something for everyone, whether it's a pair of Anthony Nak or Irene Neuwirth earrings, a summery dress from Matta or Megan Park, or a green lacquer tray. There's also an impressive apothecary, packed with Cire Trudon candles and Diptyque eau de toilettes. "
Billy Reid
Boutique · Touro
"Sure, Billy Reid is quickly carpeting the country with really, really well-done boutiques, but Reid is actually a Louisiana boy. He grew up in the tiny town of Amite, where is mother operated a women's clothing boutique. While Billy Reid got its start as a menswear brand, they're now doing women's as well, which has the same American sportswear sensibility. Tasseled loafers, patterned shorts, and leather dresses round out the mix. "
Weinstein's
Women's clothing store · Touro
"It's funny, but when Weinstein's opened back in the '70s, it was expressly devoted to menswear—these days, it's known for dressing the fairer sex, and in forward-thinking lines, too. You'll find many labels exclusive to the store, including Dries van Noten, Rick Owens, and Sacai. "
Dop Antiques
Antique store · Jefferson
"If you're in the mood for a good—albeit dusty—dig, and might be in the market for salvaged stained glass doors or a set of French bar stools, this warehouse will be your jam. It's vast, but the prices are fair and they receive shipments all the time, meaning it's a get-it-before-it's-gone scenario. "
Keil's Antiques
Antique store · French Quarter
"Keil’s Antiques has been holding court in New Orleans since the late 1800s: In fact, it's operated by the fourth generation of Keil's. The emphasis here is on pieces from the 17th, 18th, and 19th century, which might be a giant armoire, or a delicate piece of estate jewelry. The Keil family also runs Moss Antiques (411 Royal St.) and Royal Antiques (309 Royal St.). "
Ace Hotel New Orleans
Hotel · Central Business District
"While the décor here definitely feels like an Ace, you’ll find none of the urban grunge of the New York location or the woods-y, hipster feel of the Portland and Seattle spots. The building itself is a 1928 art deco masterpiece in the Warehouse District, occupied by a Scandinavian furniture company for most of its existence, and now topped with a pool that’s open year round in the balmy, humid Southern weather here. The moody-but-elegant interiors are decorated (by no less than goop favorites Roman & Williams) in dark gem tones, with perfectly worn leather banquettes and thoughtful art deco accents. As this is an Ace, the restaurant is shaping up to be pretty great as well. Memphis food wizards Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman, childhood best friends whose home-style Italian food is infused with a Southern kick, made it their first venture outside of Tennessee. "
Faulkner House Books
Book store · French Quarter
"Occupying the former home of William Faulkner, this eponymous shop is one of the more special bookstores in the world. You'll find plenty of great reads (from Faulkner and others), along with collectibles and rare editions. "
Leontine Linens
Linens store · East Riverside
"In 1996 Jane Scott Hodges founded Leontine Linens, and in 2002, she picked up the mantle established by Eleanor Beard, who built a legendary needlepoint and embroidery business in the 20th century thanks to an army of wonderfully skilled artisans. Post-acquisition you can find the same level of service at Leontine: Cut and sewn to order duvets, sheeting, toweling, and table linens which are then hand-embroidered and appliqued. It's really beautiful stuff, turned out by some of the best needleworkers in the country. (The baby goods are instant-heirlooms and perfect gifts.) "
Marion Cage
Jewelry store · Touro
"Architect and New Orleans resident Marion Cage McCollam started making jewelry more than a decade ago, and has quietly built up a following. It makes sense, because her whisper thin rings and quietly gorgeous studs cast in the shape of talons stand-out in a city known for its devotion to all things ornate. She also does really beautiful and streamlined hardware, including knob pulls and hooks. "
The National WWII Museum
War museum · Central Business District
"Even if you have little to no interest in military history, don’t miss this moving tribute set in a massive industrial space in uptown New Orleans. The interactive exhibits are unlike anything you’ve seen in traditional museums and the multimedia experiences are as engrossing as they are educational. The on-site restaurant—a retro-themed soda shop—is surprisingly good."
New Orleans Museum of Art
Art museum · City Park
"When it was established in 1911, there were nine works of art on display. Now, in addition to a 40,000-piece-strong permanent collection, including works by Picasso, Sargent, and Magritte, there’s a world-class sculpture garden and an impressive calendar of special exhibitions. On Fridays, visitors are invited to stick around past closing for movie screening, poetry slams, and lectures. "
Longue Vue House and Gardens
Garden · Lakewood
"Compared to most landmarks in the city, the Stein family’s Longue Vue estate is fairly new as it was built in the early 1940’s—but it's still very cool. Within the main building you’ll find a well-preserved collection of antique furniture and a slew of modern art treasures, including ones by Kandinsky and Picasso. Though the eight acres of sprawling gardens were almost entirely ruined by hurricane Katrina, they were lovingly replanted according to the original landscaper’s plans, and now play host to daily visitors, educational programs, and a summer camp for little ones."
Bouligny Tavern
Bar · Touro
"Though the lengthy menu of snacks (deviled eggs, grilled baby octopus) and small plates (burrata crostini, gouda beignets) suggest otherwise, this sleek, midcentury-modern hangout is first and foremost a bar—one where the focus is on the finest cocktails and spirits. The attention to food can be chalked up to the fact that the bar’s owner is John Harris, the guy responsible for neighborhood favorite Lilette, conveniently located next door. "
Cane and Table
Restaurant · French Quarter
"Two words: rum punch. That’s the specialty at this Caribbean-inspired, mixology-minded restaurant. The menu—a solid selection of rustic colonial cuisine—is packed with small plates like puffed pork skins and fried pickles. Need more proof that this place take its booze seriously? The all you can drink brunch—mimosa, punch, bloody marys—is kind of legendary."
Hermes Bar
Bar · French Quarter
"Situated in the heart of the French Quarter, this annex of Antoine’s Restaurant provides live music and a stellar cocktail list—plus a pretty great scene and the oldest menu in town."