The South of the Thames Guide
Coal Rooms
Permanently Closed
"The Coal Rooms is the latest in a slew of openings cementing Peckham’s unlikely status as London’s new gastro hub. The place is named for the charcoal used to cook the food and, (we imagine) an homage to the train tracks above the restaurant. The dining room is peaceful and sleek in a clean, stripped-back Scandinavian way—blonde-wood everything, even the fireplaces stacked with chopped wood. The food is smoky, and the plates are small: roasted cod heads, grilled zucchini and zesty yogurt, grits on the side. The Sunday roasts—an institution in Britain—are a thousand times better than the hunks of meat and soggy Yorkshire puddings served elsewhere. The slow-roasted shoulder of lamb with crispy beef-dripping spuds and coal-roasted cauliflower, rounded off with a glass of Sauternes, is weekend lunch done to perfection. "
Bermondsey Antique Market
Flea market · Borough
"Go early (5am, they open at 4) to shop with collectors and dealers for Victorian and Georgian silver, china, glassware, furniture, and more."
The Manor Tooting
Pub · Tooting
"The trek out of the center of town to Clapham is worth it when it means heading to The Manor, where a good dose of Scandi influence on Modern British cuisine is hard at work with all the pickling and fermentation that comes with. Dishes like hay-baked Pigeon, pickled girolles, and crispy chicken skin with kimchi may sound fastidious—they are—but they're also light, elegant, and delicious. What balances it all out is the care-free and downright fun, almost pub-like vibe. Plus, for dessert, you can build your own gourmet sundae at the bar. This is a place that takes the food on the table and the service seriously, but—refreshingly—not itself."
Borough Market
Fresh food market · Borough
"Borough Market is London’s oldest market and offers a dizzying expanse of food options, most of them organic and fresh from the farm. For kids, weaving through the stalls (the baked goods and sweets offering is particularly on point) and taking in the sites and smells is a total blast. Since it's a covered space, it makes for a great rainy day excursion. "
Dulwich Picture Gallery
Art gallery · Dulwich Village
"Situated in a particularly green neighborhood in South London, the Dulwich Picture Gallery is the first of its kind in England, and houses a stellar collection of masters' work from Rubens to Poussin, along with an always-exciting rotation of contemporary and classic exhibitions."
Spa Terminus
Food manufacturer · Bermondsey
"During the week, the old arches of London's now defunct first railway station in Bermondsey bustle with a different sort of activity. Here, some of the city's finest food producers are busy at work making, baking, and distributing their gourmet goods. On Saturdays, though, many of them open to the public. For those headed down to Maltby Street Market for a Saturday morning stroll, Spa Terminus is the somewhat off the beaten path extension. Go hungry as there are too many temptations: gorgeous produce from Natoora, perfect croissants from The Little Bread Pedlar, the most indulgent doughnut ever from St. John Bakery, and the best coffee in town at Monmouth. "
White Cube
Art gallery · Borough
"Credited with bringing London back to the fore of the contemporary art scene, White Cube offers a taste of the best and biggest artists and exhibitions. Owned by Jay Jopling, White Cube is famed for giving many of the Young British Artists their first solo shows and for representing the likes of Gilbert and George, Antony Gormley, Andreas Gursky, and Anselm Kiefer. The original Duke Street space closed back in 2002, but their two newer London locations (including a very large gallery on Bermondsey) certainly won't disappoint. "
Pharmacy 2 Café
Art cafe · Lambeth
"A collaboration between Damien Hirst and restaurateur Mark Hix, this restaurant, located in the artist's own Vauxhall gallery is—fittingly for Hirst—all about spectacle. Decked out in Hirst's trademark pills and pharmaceuticals everywhere from the seats to the walls, stained glass windows and bar, the interiors are basically one massive piece of art. Meanwhile, the food is exactly what you'd expect from Hix—solid, modern British and an excellent Sunday roast. Bring the kids, there's a menu designed especially for them, and they'll love the space. "
Tate Modern
Art gallery · Bankside
"The Tate features modern and contemporary art from 1900 to the present day in a huge renovated power station on the Bankside of the Thames. The outstanding Tate Collection, which is free to visit, is complemented by a series of contemporary art exhibitions that rotate through. Of course, London has it’s fair share of quality museums, but the Tate Modern is at the top of the list, especially following the museum’s recent renovation and expansion, which were completed this summer. After browsing the galleries here, follow GP’s favorite London walk: Head down to the river and then meander east along it toward Westminster Bridge. Take the foot path over the iconic bridge (you’ll see Big Ben on the other side), and then continue into historic, beautiful St. James Park, which leads to Buckingham Palace. After you see the royal home, head back in the other direction, taking Pall Mall, which connects to the central hub of Trafalgar Square."
Tate Modern
Art gallery · Bankside
"The Tate features modern and contemporary art from 1900 to the present day in a huge renovated power station on the Bankside of the Thames. The outstanding Tate Collection, which is free to visit, is complemented by a series of contemporary art exhibitions that rotate through. Of course, London has it’s fair share of quality museums, but the Tate Modern is at the top of the list, especially following the museum’s recent renovation and expansion, which were completed this summer. After browsing the galleries here, follow GP’s favorite London walk: Head down to the river and then meander east along it toward Westminster Bridge. Take the foot path over the iconic bridge (you’ll see Big Ben on the other side), and then continue into historic, beautiful St. James Park, which leads to Buckingham Palace. After you see the royal home, head back in the other direction, taking Pall Mall, which connects to the central hub of Trafalgar Square."
Lyaness
Cocktail bar · River Thames
"This botanical bar that crowns the Mondrian's Sea Containers on the Thames is stewarded by mixologist of the moment, Ryan Chetiyawardana. Besides his innovative cocktails—many made with high-tech techniques all his own—the Tom Dixon-designed space is plushly outfitted, and there are unparalleled views of the Thames both on the top floor of the hotel, and downstairs."
Chez Bruce
Modern European restaurant · Balham
"It's a bit out of town, but chef-owner Bruce Poole maintains a loyal following who make the trek for good reason. The dining room is simple and sophisticated and the modern British food, heavily influenced by French and Mediterranean cuisines, is fantastic. Eschewing many modern kitchen technologies for more traditional methods (you'll find a lot of braising, roasting and crème brûlée-ing) the set menu does not disappoint and while £49.50 for three courses is not cheap, we think it's one of the best values in London for what you get. P.S. It's totally worth springing the extra £6 supplement for the cheese board, something they do incredibly well here."
The Globe Theatre
Performing arts theater · Bankside
"The reconstruction of the original Shakespeare theater is one of the Bankside's most beautiful and character-laden structures. Much of the theater is standing only, which just adds to the authenticity. In addition to shows, tours of the building and exhibitions on Elizabethan theatre and Shakespearean London are on offer. "
Kudu
South African restaurant · Peckham
"South Londoners keep quiet about the food in Peckham. Its restaurants are so good (Peckham Bazaar), so affordable (Banh Banh), and so atmospheric (Artusi), locals want to keep this surprisingly-amazing gastronomical post code to themselves. Kudu fits right in. South African-inflected dishes like braai lamb loin with smoked yoghurt, salt-baked carrots with kefir, vegetable potjie, and spiced biltong (South Africa’s answer to charcuterie) make up the menu. The décor matches the food in terms of detail—mauve walls, chevron wood floors, and intimately small, glass-topped tables. It’s a worthy addition to the already-great Peckham neighborhood."
Maltby Street Market
Market · Bermondsey
"If you're not up for braving the crowds at Borough Market, this mini version in up-and-coming Bermondsey offers a great weekend alternative. The rail arch warehouses on Maltby Street, used during the work week by various factories, distributors, and businesses, turn into pop-up spaces for quality coffee shops, wine bars, smoked salmon vendors, cheesemongers, and more. Photos: Tavi Ionescu"
Treetop Walkway
Scenic spot · Richmond upon Thames
"Kew Botanical Garden's Treetop Walkway literally lets you amble through the trees. The path leads underground first, to the Rhizotron, where an installation teaches you about tree roots. Then, you'll head 59 feet up to walk amongst the lime, sweet chestnut, and oak trees and mingle with the resident birds and bees. It's a very special experience for adults and kids alike. During the holidays, they do up the entire place in lights and guide after-dark tours along the path as well."
London Duck Tours
Temporarily Closed
"Kids love these fun duck-themed tour buses-slash-boats, which are a wonderful and unique way to see the city. They offer great views from the river of many of the major sites adults want to see, making it fun for the whole family."
Sea Containers London
Hotel · Bankside
"A new discovery for us, Agua Spa is located under the hypermodern Sea Containers hotel (formerly the Mondrian) and designed by Tom Dixon. It’s the antithesis of a normal spa. There are no hard corners, only undulating surfaces that curve into corridors and communal spaces, and the color scheme is white, grey, and silver. The whole vibe is more akin to a spaceship or a futuristic cocoon than the usual wood/cotton/natural-light mix. The manicures and pedicures are both indulgent and blessedly efficient, but of all the treatments, the Soveral Signature Facial is one we come back to again and again. If you’re into lymphatic massage, aromatherapy, and nontoxic beauty, you won’t be disappointed. We also found ourselves in the womblike relaxation area sipping herbal tea and reading newspapers (thoughtfully left by each bed) long after our appointment ended. "
Bold Tendencies
Temporarily Closed
"Bold Tendencies founder Hannah Barry is responsible for much of Peckham’s transformation into a culture—and counterculture—hub. At this point there are few corners of this diverse, buzzing neighborhood that Barry and her organization haven’t touched. Take the parking lot: The rooftop you walk over is covered in undulating lines of weather-reflecting paint by artist Richard Wentworth. The once-grimy stairwell has been transformed by Simon Whybray into a trippy, bubble-gum-pink tunnel. The Derek Jarman roof garden converts drab concrete into a lush, landscaped escape. And we would be remiss not to mention the multistory orchestra, a collective of accomplished musicians hosting folk and classical performances in unexpected places (like that parking lot). "
South London Gallery
Art gallery · Camberwell
"Somewhat off the beaten path, the South London Gallery is in a stretch of South London—straddling Camberwell and Peckham—that is known for pushing the envelope. It’s a multifunctional space that has created a community with its interactive programs (for adults and kids), a garden, and an excellent café that’s reliably packed with creative types and local mums tucking into baked eggs. After coffee, wander into the shop for a great selection of books, magazines, jewelry, and ceramics from local artisans. "
Oblix
Fine dining restaurant · Borough
"You'll find incredible views of the city from either side here, along with rotisserie chicken with skordalia, grilled lobster, and every conceivable kind of steak, all thanks to an amazing sounding Josper oven/grill contraption. The chef, Rainer Becker (of Zuma fame), totally knows what he's doing—and it doesn't hurt that the restaurant is stretched out over the 32nd floor of The Shard. Meanwhile, they offer a weekday lounge lunch, which is a quick in-and-out three course meal for business meetings. Photo: Richard Southall "
Craft Central
Permanently Closed
"So it's a bit of a trek to Greenwich Peninsula, but as far as London's big-name developers are concerned, it won't feel that way in a few years. The first top-notch restaurant to land in the area is a collaboration between chef Stevie Parle and London's designer of the moment, Tom Dixon. Diners are treated to beautiful views of the city from the depths of Dixon's sumptuous, and a touch 70's interiors, not to mention an entirely local, British meal that is Parle's specialty. Everything from the honey, to the cheese, to the salt and pepper is sourced nearby by suppliers as nutty about quality as Dixon and Parle. Be sure to hit the bar on the top floor before dinner for well-crafted cocktails and the best sunset views."
Sea Containers Restaurant
Modern British restaurant · Bankside
"Chef and restaurateur Seamus Mullen famously cured himself of rheumatoid arthritis by changing his diet and eating anti-inflammatory, seasonal foods: He wrote a book about it, Hero Food that we interviewed him about for goop. In New York, he's part of the vanguard that's transforming restaurant cuisine, making it as delicious as it is good for you. And now, he's hopped across the Atlantic and landed at the Sea Containers in London, bringing his unique brand of seasonal to the city for the first time. And, while guests devour his brand of Spanish/Mediterranean/Moroccan/deliciousness—think house-made ricotta, wild salmon crudo, lamb meatballs, oven-roasted flatbreads, and the like—they do so in a beautiful, Tom Dixon-designed space that overlooks the Thames."
Restaurant Story
Fine dining restaurant · Borough
"Chef Tom Sellers studied under Tom Aikens when he was just 16 before heading to René Redzepi at Noma. It's at Restaurant Story that he received his first Michelin star at just 26. Offering remarkable views of the Shard, in old Bermondsey square, after a major refurbishment the vibe is still youthful, with laid-back but attentive service. The menu is equally playful (the first course of our dinner was a lit beef candle where you caught the drippings with crusty bread). As the name suggests, each dish comes with a story about its provenance, ingredients, and inspiration. Chef Sellers creates a bespoke menu for each guest, and courses range from four to eleven courses. "
Dirty Burger Vauxhall
Permanently Closed
"Unlike most of Soho House’s buttoned-up and exclusive restaurants, the Dirty Burger brand is a series of down-and-out tin-clad locales churning out ridiculously tasty and super-cheap cheeseburgers. (Vegeterians can order the "Cop Out," which is just as satisfyingly dirty.) It’s very purposefully a no-frills situation that’s totally worth the wait. There are more locations in Whitechapel, Kentish Town, and Shoreditch."
Brindisa Shop at Borough Market
Deli · Borough
"If you're a meat-eater, this is pretty much the best sandwich you'll find in the whole of Borough Market. Brindisa, which is just around the corner, sets up a casual barbecue in the market selling their simple and winning combination of fresh bread and quality chorizo. "
Pizarro
Spanish restaurant · Borough
"Jose Pizarro has two restaurants in Bermondsey that are really worth going south of the river for: Pizarro, which is a sit down Spanish restaurant, and Jose, a tapas bar just up the street. You will find Jose himself in either kitchen on any given night and his dedication shows. The food is really excellent, with a thoughtful wine and sherry list to match. Pizarro in particular, occupies a really warm, welcoming room with a partially open kitchen, making it great for a date or a night out with friends."
Yogarise Peckham - Yoga classes in Peckham Rye, London
Yoga studio · Peckham
"Yoga is big in London (as it is everywhere), but there are few places we have enjoyed practicing more than Yogarise. Held on an upper floor of a South London warehouse, classes are large, but the experience feels incredibly intimate. This is no run-of-the-mill Ashtanga. Classes are taught to music that stretches from classical and instrumental to traditional Indian. The yin class, taught by Emma Peel, not only focuses on stretching out the hips and lower back but is a meditative experience unlike any we’ve had. Peel recites poetry, the music seems to ebb and flow with the stretches (which you hold for up to five minutes), and the room smells comfortingly—never overwhelmingly—of incense. Mats, blocks, and blankets are freely provided, and the relaxation area, filled with art house magazines, herbal teas, and works by local artists, is a space you could spend hours in."
Wimbledon Farmers Market
Farmers' market · Merton
"The market takes place in a school playground, with plenty of room for kids to explore each Saturday. Local farmers sell a great variety of fresh and organic vegetables, fish, free-range meat, artisan cheese, fruit juices, yogurt, and more."
Nutbourne Bar and Restaurant, Battersea
Permanently Closed
"Located on a dock right near Battersea park, Nutbourne is a new venture by brothers Oliver and Richard Gladwin, who named the joint after their family farm and vineyard in Sussex. In fact, they're taking many cues from the vineyard, from the décor, to the farm-grown meat and vegetables, to the wine list. With bright, rustic interior and an impressively sustainable concept, they've brought a slice of the countryside to Battersea, in the form of an all-day restaurant that's open for everything from a quick bite, to a healthy lunch, to a more indulgent dinner from the grill. "
Padella
Restaurant · Borough
"From the gang behind North London's classic Italian joint, Trullo, comes Padella, a fast-paced, super affordable pasta bar in Borough Market. At this busy new spot, hand-rolled pasta is king: The main dining room consists mostly of a hulking open industrial kitchen where those with bar seating get to watch their meal being made. The menu is teensy and perfect, as are the classic Italian aperitivo-style cocktails. Our recommendation: If it's on the menu of the day, go for the beef shin ragu or the ricotta and sage ravioli. "
Peckham Bazaar
Mediterranean restaurant · Nunhead
"Peckham Bazaar is still relatively undiscovered, which is bizarre given it is some of the best food in the city. Nestled in a residential square behind Rye Lane, the restaurant specializes in Balkan cuisine, coupled with Turkish and Greek influences. The menu changes frequently, but standouts, like the beetroot and chestnut manti (Turkish dumplings similar to tortellini) and zucchini fritters, are usually available. All the meat and fish have a strong, smoky flavor thanks to the charcoal grill in the open kitchen. Reservations are essential given the small size of the bright dining room. Start with a glass of sparkling Bulgarian wine, the perfect precursor to a spicy, smoky dinner. "