An Insiders Guide to San Juan, Puerto Rico: Where to Eat, Stay and Play

@vogue
 on 2022.01.03
15 Places
@vogue
"Here, an insider’s guide to Puerto Rico’s beloved crown jewel, San Juan." By Lauren Sanchez -- For the full list, visit the link below.

Cuartel de Ballajá

Historical landmark · San Juan

"Native artisans sell handmade jewelry and artwork at the Cuartel de Ballajá, housed in military barracks dating back to the 1800s, built to harbor Spanish troops and their families. Several art organizations are also in residence, as well as the Museo de Las Américas occupying the second floor."

Chillums Gallery

Art gallery · San Juan

"Explore the Santurce art scene near Old San Juan. There is a maze of urban murals, along with a couple of tucked-away galleries, one of which is Chillums, a glass gallery specializing in “functional art” (aka a selection of hand-blown marijuana pipes)."

El Yunque National Forest

National forest · Río Grande

"El Yunque National Forest is a scenic workout. Hiking in Puerto Rico’s national rainforest is a must, especially for snagging a mythical waterfall Instagram shot (#nofilterneeded). More paths are starting to open up since being closed from the hurricane. You’ll be transported by the gentle croaks of coquís, the native frog of the island."

The Gallery Inn

Hotel · San Juan

"An art gallery, studio, and boutique hotel rolled into one, The Gallery Inn is full of paintings, bronzed statues, and intriguing ephemera fashioned by artist and lady of the manor, Jan D’Esopo, who discovered the long lost building in 1961. The onsite Cannon Club has a candlelit concert series with dueling jazz pianos (where you can catch a descendant of the D’Esopo family, Nico, joining in on his violin). Live parrots nibbling on mint leaves grace various perches throughout the space.It’s a total fantasy and the room decor reflects this. Heavy wine-colored drapes and gold details, along with lush tropical greenery, hold court in the 27 rooms."

courtesy of The Gallery Inn

Palacio Provincial

Hotel · San Juan

"Puerto Rico’s newest hotel is nestled in a historic building dating back to 1838. Opened in January 2021, Palacio Provincial beckons with breezy french doors that open to Juliet balconies overlooking the candy-colored streets of Old San Juan. A rooftop pool with charming views invites guests to pair a paperback with a chilled mojito, while the open-air courtyard calls you to a candlelit dinner at the Consular Restaurant and Bar."

courtesy of Palacio Provincial

La Bombonera

Permanently Closed

"Opened in 1902, the mainstay of La Bombonera is the pan de Mallorca dish: a sweet-savory mashup in the form of a melty swiss cheese, egg, and ham sandwich encased in buttery sweet bread and sprinkled with powdered sugar. Pair it with a cup of freshly squeezed orange juice or a café con leche to start the day--or to remedy yourself after a night out. There was a bit of a line when I first arrived, but it was quick and worth the wait."

Lauren Sanchez

Cafetería Mallorca

Cafeteria · San Juan

"A second professional pan de Mallorca maker, Cafeteria Mallorca, has a more neighborhood feel than Bombonera. Chances are, if you ask around, you’ll get this recommendation from locals. It is the oldest standing diner on the island, and is able to stay open till 3:00 pm purely through word-of-mouth."

Lote 23

Restaurant · San Juan

"A menagerie of hip food trucks, airstreams, and vendor stalls, Lote 23 is a pitstop that will satisfy a wide range of tastes, whether you’re craving fried chicken from Hen House, a bespoke cocktail from Caneca, or build your own noodles from Wok it!. There’s also live music and plenty of picnic tables to lure you from the beach."

Marmalade

Restaurant · San Juan

"With pretty multi-course meals, Marmalade is the sort of luxe spot one goes to celebrate life’s milestones. All the dishes are focused on farm-to-table ingredients. The White Bean Soup sprinkled with black truffles is a local favorite, mentioned to me several times while I was in the city. Suffice to say, it’s on my list for when I return."

Los Yeyos Restaurant

Puerto Rican restaurant · San Juan

"A local favorite, Los Yeyo' la Casa Del Mofongo is the spot to visit for Puerto Rican mofongo (mashed plantains) and empanadas. “Their food and service are amazing,” my guide Rivera said. “Decent prices and great food.”"

Los 3 Cuernos

Bar · San Juan

"Wallpapered by doodled-on dollar bills and decorated with mythical horned vejigante masks native to the island (hence the translated name ‘The Three Horns’), Los 3 Cuernos steeped in local longevity. The one-roomed jukebox dive bar specializes in exotically flavored ‘chichaitos,’ shots made with Anisette liqueur and rum. Rivera suggests trying the Nutella or Guava. It’s a perfect first stop for a night out in Old San Juan."

Lauren Sanchez

Pio Pio Champagne Bar

Restaurant · San Juan

"A champagne and snack bar serving luxurious bubbly and caviar laden bites, Pio Pio’s eclectic menu and interiors are equally Instagram-worthy. If sparkling isn’t your style, there’s a wine list a mile long with knowledgable staff to help you navigate."

La Taberna Lúpulo

Beer hall · San Juan

"With 50 taps and over 150 bottles, La Taberna is a Puerto Rican craft beer bar serving local brews Ocean Lab, and FOK, along with mainland and international favorites in a breezy building from the 1700s. The beef sliders and beer fries (more like chips) will snuff out the hunger that comes with a day of trekking through the city."

El Batey Bar

Bar · San Juan

"Opened in the 60s, El Batey Bar gives off a rebel beatnik vibe complete with graffitied walls that just about invite you to pick up the nearest Sharpie and add to the inky chaos. It’s the perfect setting to chat about the night’s plan under a glowy orange light amplified with jazz tunes playing in the background, and there’s a pool table in the back if you’re feeling restless."

La Factoría

Bar · San Juan

"A Russian doll of a spot, La Factoría reveals a different layer—and bar—on each floor. When you first enter, you’re greeted with a polite speakeasy feel, complete with a puffy couch in the corner and bartenders performing drinks rather than just serving them. I ordered a lavender mule so pretty, a couple behind me immediately requested the same. Los Hijos de Borinquen is another cocktail with a cult following. As you go deeper into the boozy labyrinth, the light gets dimmer and the music switches from light jazz to bass-thumping club and then live Spanish beats, where patrons can salsa the night away."