Rigatoni with pajata (suckling calf intestines) at Cesare al Casaletto. They don’t have them every day, but when they do, get them. But be sure to begin the meal with fritti (assorted fried starters) and end it with fegatelli di maiale (roasted pig’s liver) follwed by panna cotta.

Not only is the family behind Colline Emiliane incredibly nice and respectful of their considerable tourist clientele, they make the most delicious tortelli di zucca, pasta filled with pumpkin and dressed with butter and sage. Their meaty mains are lovely, too.

Pizza con la porchetta (Vito Bernabei’s porchetta on Bonci’s pizza bianca) at Panificio Bonci is one of the best things you will ever eat.

The capricciosa pizza at La Gatta Mangiona tastes very good.

Gabriele Bonci’s Pizzarium is famous for the creative toppings on his pizza by the slice, but the classic slices — tomato with oregano and pizza with mozzarella — are the most deeply satisfying.

The rigatoni with pajata at Tavernaccia da Bruno is fabulous and if they happen to have lasagna (a Sunday special that sells out fast), get it. I also love their wood oven roasted punta di petto (brisket).

The spaghetti with mollusks (sometimes razor clams, other times clams) at Il SanLorenzo are so delicious, if insanely expensive at €25 a plate. I’m a super fan, though not everyone loves how al dente they serve their pasta.

I dream of the ajo, ojo e peproncino at Armando al Pantheon. And the gricia, too.

Pizza rossa AND bianca at Forno Campo de’ Fiori and Antico Forno Roscioli are my breakfast, daily.

Burrata with semi-dried tomatoes, anchovies with butter, mortadella with Parmigiano Reggiano and rigatoni all gricia at Roscioli are the best. For more on how to do it up at Roscioli, read this post.

Whether you’re at Arcangelo Dandini’s Supplizio or eponymous restaurant, you must try the rice croquettes. At Ristorante L’Arcangelo, follow these up with a plate of the world’s lightest gnocchi.

I frequently and joyously travel across town to Tor Pignattara for Osteria Bonelli’s horse skirt steak.

If you eat one meat dish in Rome, make it a sandwich with allesso di scottona (simmered brisket) at Mordi e Vai. It’s amazing with or without cicoria. If you have room, get a second panino filled with polpette di bollito (fried shredded allesso).

The cod with prunes, pine nuts and apricots at Piatto Romano is special.

The maritozzi con panna (leavened buns filled with whipped cream) at Regoli are classic.

Rome’s best coffee is at the newly opened Caffe Roscioli. Their pastries–including martozzi con panna–are a delight.

The marron glace from Moriondo e Gariglio are worth their weight in gold. These candied chestnuts hit shelves at Rome’s historic confectionery shop in the fall and when they’re gone, they’re gone, so get them quick.

Trapizzini (especially doppia panna, chicken cacciatore and meatball) at Trapizzino are modern classics.

Roasted or grilled pajata at Armando al Pantheon or Agustarello isn’t for everyone, but these places do it right.

Try the pizza by the slice at Prelibato. You’ll like it!

If you have lots and lots of money, you may enjoy seasonal mushroom dishes at Al Moro, one of the priciest places in town.

When I crave roughage, I visit C’e’ Pasta…e Pasta for concia and deeply roasted vegetables.

Pizza ebraica, cinnamon biscotti and ricotta or almond paste cake

Ricotta and assorted cheeses

Cacio e pepe potato croquettes

Cacio e pepe pizza at Tonda or Sforno

Alici arraganate