The Paris Hipster Guide

@goop
 on 2022.02.03
38 Places
@goop
From the Marais to the 11th, Paris is packed with boutiques and restaurants that define what's cool now. Here, many of Paris’s more envelope-pushing spots (and a lot of the health food joints, too, a concept that’s finally reached France). COVID-19 disclaimer: We are working hard to keep our listings as up to date as possible (deliveries, outdoor dining, etc.), but given the evolving nature of local COVID-19 restrictions, we recommend double-checking the information in this guide with any business you plan on visiting. Also, please note that we have not vetted any businesses listed within our guides for their compliance with applicable safety regulations.

"This elegantly restored hotel is a mere five minutes from Paris’s center of gravity, the Champs-Élysées, which really means it’s five minutes from everything. The first thing to note is that there is an actual hammam in the basement. After a long day of sightseeing, a few laps in the pool followed by a steam is a healing balm for exhausted feet and sore muscles. Aesthetically, the Art Deco influence is quietly done and hidden in the details, like the lamps, the restrained use of marble (and the not-so-restrained use of stripes to beautiful results), pretty velvet upholstery, even the occasional in-room porthole. Unbeatable location aside, the attentive staff and excellent service catapult this new hotel to the top of the short list of excellent places to stay. The adorably small hotel bar and the sexy dining room make leaving that much harder. "

Hôtel Le Belleval

Hotel · 8th Arrondissement

"At Hotel Le Belleval, the floral theme is obvious (the hallways are done in contrasting floral carpeting and wallpaper) but not overwhelming (the occasional petal-patterned cushion or upholstered armchair, the odd framed print of a rose or lily), just enough to pay homage to the botanist the hotel is dedicated to. All fifty-two guest rooms feel like a breath of fresh air with their elegant navy walls, floor-to-ceiling windows looking over the rooftops of Paris, and beautifully outfitted bathrooms. The hotel restaurant is refreshingly low-key with a natural, mostly organic menu that is the perfect antidote to too many plates of steak-frites. Additional perks are the interior courtyard which feels like a secret garden in the middle of the city and the library—a godsend for the traveler who needs to mix work with play. "

The Hoxton, Paris

Hotel · Porte Saint-Denis

"Rivié, one of the two bars in the Hoxton, has a wonderful brasserie, a lovely outdoor garden, and scattered here and there, relaxing little nooks with armchairs and nice lighting. But never mind-skip all that. Head straight for the bar. The bar bar. Settle into the velvet barstool, order a glass of Billecart-Salmon (a rosé champagne) or, depending on your day, a dirty martini. The staff is friendly, the vibe is chill, and as evening slips into night, remember only two very important words: truffle fries. "

Jérôme Dreyfuss

Fashion designer · Saint-Germain-des-Pres

"Invariably, when you see an Isabel Marant, you'll see an outpost of Jerome Dreyfuss. Not only is there a subtly shared aesthetic, but Jerome and Isabel are married. For the most part, the bags here are perfectly slouchy, and the shoes are kind of exactly what you want for a low-key weekend in the city. There are other locations in the 1st (womens) and the 6th (shoes). "

Papier Tigre

Paper store · 3rd Arrondissement

"You'd know a Papier Tigre notebook (or envelope or calendar or day planner) if you saw one. They're all distinctly colorful and geometric and always totally utilitarian. Another bonus of buying paper goods in bulk to hand out to friends back home? They don't take up much suitcase space at all, and they make recipients giddy with glee. "

Love Stories Paris

Women's clothing store · Saint-Gervais

"Love Stories hails from Amsterdam, but the lingerie is so delicate, it may as well be Parisian. The matching sets, which come in varying degrees of skimpiness, are a good place to start. We love the selection of supremely comfortable bralettes in cotton and lace for traveling, or just lounging in. There’s also a smart edit of accessories, and somehow, we can never leave the store without adding a silk sleep mask or floral-print laundry bag (so convenient for storing underwear or purses) to our basket."

Boutique Maison Labiche - Vieille du Temple

Clothing store · 3rd Arrondissement

"Fact: They don’t let you leave Paris without at least half a suitcase’s worth of marinière shirts. Ok, it’s not exactly fact, but we do like to spend some time at Maison Labiche when we’re in town. This is where stack upon folded stack of striped cotton tees and sweaters sit snugly in the little nooks that line the walls. And because we’ve never met a monogram we didn’t love, Maison Labiche is an especially important stop: they’ll embroider whatever you want right on the spot. "

Café Pinson

Permanently Closed

"The focus here is on California-style organic vegetarian fare: healthy, wheat-free, veggie-centric dishes that don’t skimp on taste. The interior is all wood floors, stone walls, and mix-and-match seating. Come for lunch on weekdays, as dinner can get a little hectic. There's another location in the 10th."

Ste Alisan Grand Appétit

Permanently Closed

"We turn to this frill-free vegan eatery when we need some steamed veggies, brown rice, and green tea after too many frites. They do takeout as well, which can be hard to find in this town."

Pink Mamma

Italian restaurant · 9th Arrondissement

"A newish sister to the absurdly popular Ober Mamma, Pink Mamma is a welcome Italian-centric addition to the very French dining scene in Pigalle. The four flights that take you up to the most Instagrammable dining room—it has a giant skylight for a roof!—are well worth the sore legs. There are plants everywhere, haphazardly placed furniture, mixed prints—in fact, the whole place might as well have been airlifted from Rome, right down to the menu. House-made pasta, grilled proteins, and really excellent pizza."

Derrière

French restaurant · 3rd Arrondissement

"This speakeasy-esque spot in the Marais is run by brothers Mourad and Hakim Mazouz and takes “homey atmosphere” to the next level. For one, it’s set up like a bohemian apartment, with diners taking their pick from the kitchen, dining room, boudoir, or living room—which has a ping-pong table in the center. Upstairs, a smoking lounge is hidden behind a secret doorway (in an antique armoire, naturally). The extreme comfort theme also applies to the menu, with mashed potatoes and beef bourguignon taking top billing for dinner and an epic brunch spread on weekends. Though the dessert changes on the regular, ask for the floating island…it’s garnished with pop rocks."

Experimental Cocktail Club

Cocktail bar · 2nd Arrondissement

"In true speakeasy fashion, this very-adored spot is behind an unmarked door, on a dimly lit, pedestrian-only alley. But beyond the appeal of being impossible-to-find, Parisians really come because they love the artful cocktails. It gets crowded after 11 and is generally packed on weekends; there are now outposts in New York City and London as well. "

Le 404

Moroccan restaurant · 3rd Arrondissement

"While we’ve arguably had better Moroccan, Le 404 isn’t really about the food (though the lentils and chicken tagines are a welcome culinary break from beef bourguignon): It’s always a party, best capped off with a cocktail at Andy Wahloo next door (from the same owners). Keep in mind that Le 404 is also open on Sundays, a Parisian rarity."

Le Verre Volé

French restaurant · 10th Arrondissement

"Part wine shop, part bistro, Le Verre Volé draws a reliably large crowd despite its tiny footprint (you'll want to make a reservation unless you're just stopping in to pick up a bottle). There's a wine shop in the 11th (38 rue Oberkampf) as well as a sandwich shop (54 rue de la Folie Méricourt). "

Restaurant Au Passage

French restaurant · 11th Arrondissement

"This one-room wine bar requires a walk down a very long (and at night, scarily dark) passage, but the music, lively crowd, and simple but solid menu of French small plates justify the gauntlet. While Aux Deux Amis down the street may tempt with a similar wine bar concept, it gets way too packed: Au Passage, which also feels a bit more grown-up, easily wins out. "

Le Baron Rouge

Wine bar · Quinze-Vingts

"While it's not required, locals bring their own glass bottles and fill them with wine from the barrels near the door. This is not a place for picky oenophiles as the wine here is more the "house" variety, but it's still a great place to put back a few glasses with some small plates."

Hod

Permanently Closed

"Shark tooth-studded ear cuffs from Jacquie Aiche, feathered collars by Lizzie Fortunato, psychedelic earrings from Tom Binns, and Delfina Delletrez's evil eye-bedecked rings are just a few of the pieces on display here. While the emphasis is on jewelry (every young gun designer is represented, from Mociun to Shourouk), there are photorealistic clutches from Dezso, Jennifer Behr headbands, and tasseled horse hair bag charms."

Mauvaises Graines

Restaurant · 13th Arrondissement

"Whether you have a terrace to landscape, or are just looking for a hostess gift, it's easy to spend the better part of an afternoon here. The Bad Seed is like a garden shop on acid: They're interested in the strange, the otherworldly, and the extreme. It's all pretty amazing, from teeny tiny plants, to shadowboxed insects, to arrangements in wooden boxes named after heavy metal bands, to a vintage motorcycle, overgrown with foliage."

The Broken Arm

Clothing store · 3rd Arrondissement

"Part café, part boutique, attention to detail is paramount at this minimalist space, whether it's the streamlined shape of a Raf Simons sweatshirt, Carven tennis shoes, or the perfect cappucino and slice of cake."

Spree

Permanently Closed

"If you happen into this Montmartre boutique when artist and owner Bruno Hadjadj is on hand, you can expect to stay for at least an hour: He's fun, and kind, and he has exquisite taste, which is represented in everything from the mid-century modern furniture scattered about the shop (all for sale) to the racks, which are lined with the best pieces from Isabel Marant, Helmut Lang, and Acne. (His wife, stylist Roberta Oprandi, can lay equal claim.) The pair recently took possession of a former stationery shop across the street and opened Spree Galerie to showcase the work of both Hadjadj and all their artist friends. The wonderfully printed exterior—Papiers Peints—remains."

Puces de Vanves

Flea market · 14th Arrondissement

"Regardless of what the skies bring, you'll always find a seemingly endless row of tables at this outdoor, year-round flea. Unlike the situation at Les Puces, there are treasures for those who are willing to dig."

Fleux

Home goods store · Saint-Merri

"This shop literally spans a block—and what feels like a big block. Inside, you'll find every iteration of every modern home trend, which can overwhelm, but if you can take the time to really look, you'll find tons to lug home. Kaleido trays by Hay, pretty jewelry boxes, and graphic Ferm Living plates are just a few of the highlights."

Le Camion Qui Fume

Permanently Closed

"It was only a matter of time before the food truck craze struck Paris; after all, Parisians are already accustomed to street-side crepe vendors. Pioneered by a Californian, Le Camion Qui Fume revolves around burgers of every variety (including veggie and pork) and the corresponding frites. The French are huge fans, so be prepared to wait around forty minutes; the truck's roving location is posted to its website."

BOB'S JUICE BAR

Temporarily Closed

"Whether you want a green juice to kick off what will otherwise be a day of gluttony, or need a palate-cleanser after a string of rich French meals, this tiny space offers a respite. Besides cold-pressed juice (Paris’s first foray into that space), you’ll find locals feasting on quinoa salads and veggie-laden muffins at the communal table."

Coutume

Coffee shop · 7th Arrondissement

"This lablike Left Bank coffee house (there are three other locations throughout the city) is owned by two pals (one Australian, one French)—and it offers so much more than standard espresso. For starters, they do to-go cups, which is kind of an anomaly in this part of the world, as well as pour-overs and cappuccinos. Like so many Parisian cafés, this one has an indoor/outdoor seating situation making it a people-watching paradise. But you can actually get some work done, too—the interior is soothing, the Wi-Fi is free, and tables are roomy enough to spread out. You can also grab a quick breakfast or soup-and-salad lunch."

Isabel Marant

Clothing store · 7th Arrondissement

"Isabel Marant has done a pretty amazing job of building a slavishly devoted fan base: It's partly because her clothes used to be nearly impossible to find unless you bought a ticket to Paris (she still refuses to be sold online, and only opened outposts in NYC and LA in the past few years), and partly because she nails a bohemian-meets-modern aesthetic that always just works. There are four outposts across the city. There are also locations in the 3rd, 16th, and the 11th."

Mes Demoiselles | Magasin Odéon | Paris

Women's clothing store · Saint-Germain-des-Pres

"Lace-trimmed shirts, pointelle peasant blouses, and delicate floral prints are signature tricks of the eponymous line here. They do it really well. There's another location at 45 Rue Charlot in the 3rd."

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre

Hotel · 18th Arrondissement

"This once-grand mansion turned five-room chic hotel was recommended to me by a discerning travel journalist. He had just gone to the opening and said it was really special and worth checking out. Each room is distinctly decorated by various artists. I’ve never stayed in Montmartre, but I love the idea of being in that area of Paris."

Hôtel Amour

Hotel · 9th Arrondissement

"Close to Pigalle—Paris’s former red light district—Hôtel Amour takes a deep bow to the neighborhood’s tawdry past. There’s a wee bit of erotica on the walls (making this not the best choice if you’re traveling with little ones…it’s like Paris’s version of Chateau Marmont), but the nightclub-esque space is still tasteful: The halls are lacquered in black, the art is cool, and a handful of the hotel’s rooms were designed by artists (Marc Newson, Sophie Calle, and Pierre LeTan all took interior decorating turns). The spaces are small, but that doesn’t really matter—the common areas, like the scene-y bar and outdoor terrace, are where you’ll want to spend most of your time anyway. The space was conceived by night life visionary André Saraiva, who is the force behind Le Baron—he knows how to throw a good party."

Mama Shelter Paris East

Hotel · 20th Arrondissement

"Though it’s in the slightly far-flung 20th (which gets cooler every month), Mama Shelter wins big points for its reasonable prices. This burgeoning chainlet—with locations in Istanbul, Lyon, Marseille, and Bourdeaux—is a bit like the Ace Hotel family. The outposts attract a 20-something crowd by offering complimentary Wifi, free movies, and quirky design moments, like ceilings covered with chalkboard scrawl, Minnie Mouse nightlights, and an always-crowded bar."

Merci

Store · 3rd Arrondissement

"It's rare to find a store that's so much bigger than its collective parts, but Merci is one of those spots that opened to an endless stream of breathless acclaim—and just as many inches of coverage in the press. This is easy to understand: For one, all profits go to charities for children in Madagascar; for two, it's gorgeous and artful while still feeling accessible to all. Located in an airy, sprawling nineteenth-century fabric factory, this superstore sells the best of pretty much everything. Labels like Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, and Stella McCartney mingle on the clothing racks; Aesop shampoos and Annick Goutal perfumes line the shelves in the comprehensive beauty apothecary; and there are loads of amazing homewares, too, like Caran d'Ache pens, Muuto pendants, and even washi tape. Fresh flowers and gardening tools? Check. Don't leave without visiting one of the three cafés: The Merci Canteen offers veggie-centric lunches and treats, the Cinéma Café is perfect for a quick bite or glass of wine, and the Used Book Café in the basement is our favorite, as you can flip through any one of the 10,000 preloved books that line the walls while you wait for your brunch."

Hammam des Bains du Marais

Spa and health club · Porte Saint-Denis

"This warm and moodily-lit subterranean space is the full expression of a traditional Moroccan hammam, from the tile work to the treatments. Scrubs, massages, and a series of steam and sauna rooms will lull the knots out of your back: And when you're done with it all, you can opt for hair and nail treatments as well. There are days designated solely for men, and days designated solely for women, as well as a few swimsuit-required unisex sessions on the calendar."

Kshanti Yoga Paris

Permanently Closed

"It’s appropriate that this beautiful, cozy yoga studio that focuses on patience and benevolence is in an old church. The studio’s goal is to help you find the right practice for you, so the instructors teach many different styles of yoga, including Jivamukti, Hatha, Vinyasa, and Chromayoga; the studio also offers circus-inspired classes to get kids involved at a young age. Everyone is welcomed with a pair of slippers, and the vibe is so relaxed that it’s hard to resist hanging out for a post-class snack in the adjacent Maisie Cafe. For those visiting in August, classes resume on the 20th. "

The Mini Tiger Yoga Club

Permanently Closed

"Take your pick from yoga (Ashtanga, Iyengar, Vinyasa, as well as sessions for kids), Pilates, meditation, massage, and chiseling bar classes at this atmospheric studio in the Marais. Subdued lighting, gorgeous earth tones, and Asian sculptures set a soothing vibe. There’s a luxurious, rejuvenating hammam; a shop stocked with essential oils, candles, yoga mats, and beautifying potions; and a café that serves incredible organic lunches."

mirz-yoga

Yoga studio · 19th Arrondissement

"Plagued by stomach pains, Marine “Mirz” Parmentier found relief in yoga and became obsessed, leaving her communications job to train in India. She founded Mirz Yoga, where you can take Vinyasa, Hatha, and Jivamukti classes designed for all levels, including prenatal and children, along with a signature, beyond-fun hip-hop Vinyasa flow. Mirz also has her own yoga line, handmade with ethically sourced fabrics in France, and there's an amazingly delicious vegetarian café (the falafel bowl is especially good)."

Rosa Bonheur Buttes Chaumont

Bar · 19th Arrondissement

"This spot is named for the nineteenth-century painter Rosa Bonheur, the first woman to become an officer of the Legion of Honour, whose paintings of horses and cows grace the walls of the Louvre and New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Bonheur used the then-wilds of the Bois de Boulogne to find animals to paint, this Rosa Bonheur is situated in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful garden in the 19th. The emphasis here is on day-drinking, really, though it gets overly packed as the night wears on. It serves great appetizers, plus it's laid-back, unpretentious, and kid-friendly. Should you stay past 10 p.m., expect to follow the crowd onto the dance floor."

Wild & The Moon - Charlot - restaurant vegan à Paris

Vegan restaurant · 3rd Arrondissement

"A welcome addition to Paris's growing roster of health-centric restaurants, Wild & the Moon hits that sweet spot of tasty health-conscious food that is actually filling. The menu has been formulated by vegan nutritionists, with over half of it dominated by juices and tonics—adaptogenic coffee chaga shakes, blue algae smoothies, charcoal lattes, and golden mylks. The food centers around hearty, flavorful grain and lentil bowls packed with vegetables and topped with inventive miso-based vinaigrettes. For the traveler seeking a little balance with their crème brûlée, stocking your hotel room with a mini-bar-friendly assortment of the café's raw bars, chia puddings, cold-pressed juices, and zucchini muffins is never a bad call."

Maisie Café.

Vegan restaurant · Place Vendome

"Maisie Café brings a taste of LA juice culture to Paris. The brainchild of former luxury exec turned wellness enthusiast Isabella Capece, Maisie Café has an all-vegan, organic menu that reflects the more health-conscious direction many new Parisian spots are heading in. Breakfast is light, with acai bowls, matcha granola, juices, and shakes, while lunch is pure West Coast in the sense that most of the dishes are bowl-based: brown rice or soba noodles topped with the freshest veggies, nuts, and seeds. The fashion pack who hit Paris for the shows are big fans of Maisie's cures—hot and cold soups, elixirs, and broths for every ailment, all available for delivery. If you do choose to sit in, the interior feels like a balmy escape to Miami with tropical-print walls and pastel seating. "