Anthony Bourdain visits Hong Kong, a city experiencing sweeping changes as mainland China’s grip on political life tightens. There he is accompanied by Christopher Doyle—renowned cinematographer, Wong Kar-wai collaborator, and the city’s adopted enfant terrible. Bourdain tries to make sense of the opposing yet complementary elements that make Hong Kong a multicultural destination that has “always embraced change.”

Keung Kee Dai Pai Dong

Restaurant · Hong Kong

Bourdain ate: drunken chicken, fish tripe, and egg-custard clay-pot dish with youtiao (fried breadsticks, “like a quiche”). Dinner date: chef Gazza Cheng.

Leaf Dessert

Hong Kong style fast food restaurant · Soho

A 100-year old noodle shop. Tony had beef brisket noodles with wontons, cinematographer Chris Doyle had choy noodle soup.

Christopher Doyle and filmmaker Jenny Suen accompanied Tony to eat corn–and–fish ball soup; fried fish ball with dried scallop, dried shrimp, and pork; sun cured salted salted egg yolks served over rice; crispy pork belly cooked in shrimp paste and yu choy

PARTS UNKNOWN

Sun Kwong Nan Café

Chinese restaurant · Soho

Tony and photojournalist Simon Go ordered Fried pork cutlet over rice with tomato sauce, soup with macaroni, spam and egg, French toast with peanut butter and condensed milk, pineapple bun.

PARTS UNKNOWN

Sher-E-Punjab

Indian restaurant · Soho

Tony had northern Indian food here. Lunch dates: John and Shamarke, two asylum seekers living in Hong Kong.

Sun Hing Restaurant

Dim Sum restaurant · Hong Kong

Bourdain ate: egg-custard buns, braised chicken feet, and other dim sum classics. Lunch dates: Janice Lau and Jason Cheung, members of Hong Kong punk band David Boring.

Happy Paradise

Permanently Closed

Bourdain ate: sourdough chicken-fat egg waffle with Taiwanese bottarga; sauteed prawns with pan-roasted pumpkin, dried shrimp roe, and prawn oil; tea-smoked pigeon; Hakka-style chicken; and pig brain with burnt-pear vinaigrette. Dinner dates: Jenny Suen, feng shui master Thierry Chow, and chef May Chow.

PARTS UNKNOWN

Lau Sum Kee Noodle

Chinese noodle restaurant · Hong Kong

Tony had lunch with Douglas Young, founder of Goods of Desire. They had prawn-roe noodles.