This guide recommends visiting 4 neighbourhood(s) in Hong Kong: Sheung Wan Lower, Sheung Wan Upper, Tai O and Wan Chai

Quinary

Cocktail bar · Soho

"Quinary, Sheung Wan Lower. Quinary is one of the best places for a cocktail in Hong Kong. Here, the cocktails are totally imaginative and will likely blow your mind. The menu includes both classic cocktails and also their food-science approach creations. It is always too packed on Friday or Saturday night though - don't expect a personal recommendations - you may hardly yell your order across the crowd."

"Nocturne Wine & Whisky Bar, Sheung Wan Lower. Intimate space, discreetly hidden in behind an untreated concrete wall, Nocturne Wine & Whisky Bar has rather minimalistic design with an enormous selection of whisky - no less than 150 of Japanese, Scotch, Taiwanese and Bourbon whiskies. If Japanese whisky is what you want, Nocturne is the place to go."

Lin Heung Tea House

Cantonese restaurant · Soho

"Lin Heung Tea House, Sheung Wan Lower. You might have encountered Lin Heung Tea House if you have researched a bit about dim sum places in Hong Kong. Marking its 107th anniversary this year, Lin Heung is one of the few traditional Chinese restaurants with its own deli and bakery. The menu is a simple assortment of homestyle Guizhou dishes showing you a taste of old Hong Kong."

Grassroots Pantry

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"Grassroots Pantry, Sheung Wan Lower. Get the best organic offerings here.Good food doesn’t have to be bad for you, Grassroots Pantry in SOHO is just the right place for some a good veggie dining. Grassroots Pantry is a homespun restaurant and workshop with a simple core philosophy: to create food that heals with the highest culinary standards and using the freshest, most nutrient-dense of sustainable, plant-based ingredients. So, enjoy the truly delicious, rustic food without having to pay the health piper here!"

Gold Yard

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"Gold Yard, Sheung Wan Lower. Founded in 2014, Gold Yard takes care of your fashion and lifestyle needs. Presenting a wide selection of sophisticated fashion, stationery, household items and lifestyle goods from around the world - they carry well-crafted outerwear to unique vintage accessories - including brands such as Archival Clothing, Bag 'n' Noun, Commodity Goods, Prospector Co also The Hill-Side."

Kau Kee Food Cafe

Chinese noodle restaurant · Soho

"Kau Kee, Sheung Wan Lower. Popular with locals for its awesome beef brisket soup noodle -a fundamental dish in Cantonese cuisine that keeps the tables full all day long - Kau Kee serves its clear broth and tender beef brisket with Noodles come in thick and thin wheaten varieties."

Fu Lu Shou

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"Fu Lu Shou, Sheung Wan Lower. One of the best things about Fu Lu Shou, a Chinese themed bar and restaurant, is its rooftop space. It is best to have a strong loca cocktail and enjoy the dim sum menu. Its opens Mon-Sat from 5pm."

Welley Building

Building · Soho

"1.0, Sheung Wan Lower. With an unmarked entrance – look for the iron door with a spot-lighted door bell off the side of Graham Street – 001 is a hidden spot best known for its excellent Earl Grey Martini and the lobster roll."

General Store

Furniture store · Soho

"General Store, Sheung Wan Lower. Here in General Store, you’ll find a grand selection of second-hand antiques, tableware, furniture and art items from around the world. Opened in Hong Kong in 2011, you can find a range of rare antiques and modern classics here sharing sense of comfort and ease. In fact other then selling all the beautiful items, Interior Design services are the core their business too, so don't forget to check out there works in their website!"

"Asia Art Archive, Sheung Wan Lower. This excellent independent non-profit organization, initiated in 2000 in response to the urgent need to document and make accessible the multiple recent histories of art in the region. It aims to facilitate understanding, research, and writing in the field, enrich existing global narratives, and re-imagine the role of the archive. With such an extraordinary platform, it is a good place to meet and exchange thoughts about contemporary art."

Contemporary by Angela Li

Art gallery · Soho

"Angela Li Contemporary, Sheung Wan Lower. Since its establishment in 2008, Contemporary by Angela Li represents emerging and established contemporary artists from China, Hong Kong and worldwide. The gallery is known throughout the strong focus on photography and new media art gaining considerable attention and has become one of Hong Kong’s top galleries for contemporary art."

EOQ

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"PMQ, Sheung Wan Upper. Once upon a time PMQ stood for Police Married Quarters but it was repurposed, refurbished and rechristened as an acronym to be opened as a creative hub in 2014. In Hong Kong this essentially translates as retail. But head to the upper levels of this heritage site where some of the less established and more interesting brands are (see my posts on Open Quote and Stars & Tart, also the one on G.O.D. which is on the ground floor). There are cafes and restaurants if you need to refuel (see my Sohofama post) and a rooftop garden on the 4th floor for some sitting and relaxing, you can also cross from one side of the complex to the other here. Also, keep an eye on their website to see if there are any exhibitions on – the Qube space has had some great ones with street artist Invader and designer Thomas Heatherwick."

"HK Walls, Sheung Wan Upper. Loads of amazing street art within Sheung Wan's streets and lane ways mark it as one of THE creative neighborhoods of Hong Kong Island. And HK Walls is the wonderful organization responsible for the standout murals. They bring local and international artists together with the virginal walls of Hong Kong. Wander around Poho, you’re bound to come across some of HK Walls handiworks ... or if you’re on a mission to see all 19 sites there’s a map on their website. Whilst you’re there check out details of their annual street art festival. (Photos: HK Walls)"

teakha

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"teakha, Sheung Wan Upper. Teakha serves exquisite teas steeped to perfection in an atmosphere of charm and homeliness. I love the chai tea with its spicy milky warmth. I love the green tea mousse cake with its rich matcha flavor and oh-so-velvety mousse. The space is small with half of it being taken up by the kitchen but worry not! – there's another cosy little area outside in the back alley carpeted with astro turf. Teakha is truly a little gem."

Little Bao

Diner · Soho

"Little Bao, Sheung Wan Upper. If Chinese food mated with an American diner Little Bao would be its offspring. And a very hip baby it is too, full of good vibes and friendly staff. The interior is like a diner and small so if you're not there early be prepared to be put on a waiting list but it's worth it. The food takes the Chinese bao or fluffy white bun and fills it with untraditional ingredients. I love the pork belly bao, so succulent and full of flavor. There are also beef, szechaun fried chicken, fish tempura and vegetarian baos. There are other dishes for sharing too like the divine short ribbed pan fried dumplings and smoked eggplant. When it opened Little Bao became an overnight sensation and deservedly so. To make sure you find it look for the cute neon baby face."

"Yardbird, Sheung Wan Upper. The vibe in this hip restaurant is up, up, UP with the friendly and informative staff, pumping music and air of happiness brought on by the exquisite food. Yardbird specializes in Japanese-style yakitori dishes of skewered grilled chicken, order many so you don’t miss out on the amazing flavors. Different parts of a chicken are grilled over charcoal – thighs, wings, heart, liver and so on. Other ingredients feature too like the duck meatballs and pork belly I tried recently, both brilliant. There’s a fantastic drinks menu here with a great range of sake, try a glass of the Kokonoe Saika Junmai Daiginjo, it is sublime. Yardbird has had a huge buzz about it ever since it opened in 2011, there are queues almost every night I walk by. It totally lives up to all the accolades, it is an absolute pleasure to spend an evening here and worth lining up for."

G.O.D. - Goods Of Desire

Gift shop · Soho

"Goods Of Desire (G.O.D.), Sheung Wan Upper. Located on the ground floor of PMQ, Goods of Desire (G.O.D.) is a Hong Kong lifestyle brand brimming with beautiful objects. Its designs feature images from urban and old world Hong Kong and repackages them into home wares, fashion and gifts. Add a cheeky sense of humor and the result is kitsch and elegantly designed goods which are quintessentially Hong Kong. I love that the brand's English slogan "Delay No More" phonetically translates into Cantonese as a profanity involving your mum – it's emblazoned on G.O.D. T-shirts and some of their other products. This is a fantastic place for some cool gifts and souvenirs of this city."

Select 18

Antique store · Soho

"Select 18, Sheung Wan Upper. This place is packed to the rafters with vintage gewgaws and knickknackery. There’s retro Hong Kong paraphernalia alongside old Americana, they're posters, toys, jewelry, handbags, suitcases, cigarette cases, canteens, compasses ... the list is too long for this space. Best of all: the entire back section is devoted to vintage sunglasses. So many cool frames, too little disposable cash!"

Café Deadend

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"Café Deadend, Sheung Wan Upper. Secreted away in a quiet dead end (get it?) this place isn’t easy to find but it’s definitely worth looking for. The focus is on homemade high quality ingredients with a coffee shop-style menu. Everything I’ve tried here is exquisite, the sandwiches, soup, salads, cakes, coffee. It’s rare I deviate from the smoked salmon bagel and spiced apple tart though – so good! The B.E.L.T. sandwich comprising of bacon, egg, lettuce and tomato is incredible too. The breads and baked goods come fresh from Deadend’s adjoining bakery counterpart, Po’s Atelier. Also, there’s a lovely outdoor area to take in Hong Kong’s (polluted) air but take note there’s no table service here."

Po's Atelier

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"Po's Atelier, Sheung Wan Upper. You know how in cartoons a character can float through the air following a delicious aroma with their nose? Well, if I were a celluloid character I’d be doing the same to the warm smells of doughy yumminess baking within Po’s Atelier. This artisan bakery has an Earl Grey flavored loaf as well as an Oolong Fig one, designed by Japanese baker and chef Masami Asano. Everything is baked on-site from scratch and there are no artificial additives or preservatives. As I write this it’s making me think of the brioche, I think I will be there tomorrow morning when it opens to get my fix, so light and buttery! The pastries MUST be tried too."

"Inbetween, Sheung Wan Upper. Nestled behind an open-air food stall is Inbetween. It has the feel of a store your grandma may like with its genteel collection of tea cups, spoons and glass lamps. It also has a sample of vinyl records and very cool posters. But at the front counter is a display of jewelry by local designers. Pilz Schmuck is represented – her elegant geometric rings, bangles and earrings regularly bring me back for a visit to see if there are any new designs. Also here are the works of designers Shannam with their miniature dioramas of teeny tiny people set inside resin rings, magical!"

"squarestreet, Sheung Wan Upper. Begun in 2009 by Swede Alexis Holm on the street it’s named after, squarestreet is an independent boutique which designs and develops beautiful watches and footwear. There are also gorgeous leather bags, eyewear and jewelry with all the goodies having that distinct Scandinavian simplicity, cool and elegance. This showroom/store is a great stop for the guys – but also girls. I have several pairs of delightful cloth shoes from this boutique which I've worn to tatters ... time for another visit there to see what's in stock ..."

"Heritage Tea House, Sheung Wan Upper. I stopped in this tea house for the first time recently for a quick break before getting back into a busy day. I tried the White Peony tea which was aromatic and calming. It was only $40 (HK) and served with a small dish of dried fruits, nuts and a lotus seed paste bun – really good value. I was also given a sample of the Royal Iron Buddha tea to try which had a strong pleasant medicinal flavor, I'll be going back for a full pot of this. You can also buy teacups, teapots and nicely packaged teas in here."

EARTH.er 第二店

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"EARTH.er, Tai O. EARTH.er is a fashionable brand which remain committed to run the business in an environmentally friendly and socially responsible manner. They design their own product with eco-friendly material and also having fair trade products in an presently collaborating with several South East Asian organizations in the making of uniquely EARTH.er products such as clothing, shoes packs etc.It's not just a brand but also an attitude, you can feel their belief while you visit their shop."

紹記海味

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"Dried Seafood Store, Tai O. As Tai O is a fishing port, you may check out the live seafood tanks, the vast array of dried seafoods and vegetables, some you may or may not recognize, knick knacks, and souvenirs."

Blue House

Historical landmark · Soho

"The Blue House, Wan Chai. This Grade 1 Historic Building is an iconic image of Wan Chai. One of the few remaining examples of tong lau—tenement-style housing—once common in the city, the blue colour is slightly less vibrant these days, but no less worthy of an Instagram snap. And for the curious traveller, it also houses the Hong Kong House of Stories, a community-run museum whose aim is preservation of the house, as well as conserving Hong Kong culture amid the sweeping changes of time."

ODD ONE OUT

Art gallery · Hong Kong

"Odd One Out, Wan Chai. One of Wan Chai's creative gems, Odd One Out is a friendly (i.e. unpretentious) independent boutique specialising in limited run prints from local and international artists. On top of unique exhibitions, they have a great selection of zines, mags and houseware products, all for very fair prices. Add to that a coffee bar operated by SFS—complete with a lovely patio space—and you have plenty of reasons to make Odd One Out one of your normal haunts."

Monocle

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"Monocle, Wan Chai. If you're reading this, you've no doubt heard of Monocle—the media company founded by Tyler Brûlé in 2007. Well, their cosy but beautifully designed Hong Kong retail-cum-office space has a great collection of limited edition items and collaborations, in an area of Wan Chai that’s fast becoming a playground for the city’s creative class."

"Capital Cafe, Wan Chai. Possibly the best spot to grab a local breakfast this side of the island. If you're jonesing for fluffy scrambled eggs on fluffy white toast but don't want to trek over the Harbour to Jordan's Aussie Dairy Co.—HK's undisputed breakfast king—then Capital Cafe is your best bet."

Kasa

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"Kasa, Wan Chai. Slightly off the beaten path, this new spot is a testament to Hong Kong’s culinary past. Complete with nostalgic décor and menu full of Canto comfort food with a twist. Menu highlights include claypot rice, given Arancini-treatment, and classic lion’s head meatballs."

Cosmos

Book store · Soho

"Cosmos Books, Wan Chai. In a city where English bookstores are on the decline, Cosmos is a bit of a godsend. The large shop on Johnston Road has been here for almost four decades, and has a little bit of everything on its shelves, but it is perhaps most noteworthy for a decent selection of Hong Kong books."

Hopewell Centre

Office building · Soho

"Hopewell Centre elevator, Wan Chai. Once the tallest tower in Asia, this Wan Chai landmark still offers an incredible view of the city, even in the shadow of much taller buildings. Hop onto the elevator from the 17th floor, and take the express lift to the 62nd floor. You can choose to eat in the revolving restaurant at the top (if you're the type of person who thinks eating in a revolving restaurant is a good decision), but a better idea is to just enjoy the free ride in the glass lift. Have your camera ready, and don't be ashamed of going up and down a couple of times."

Pak Tai Temple, Wan Chai

Place of worship · Soho

"Pak Tai Temple, Wan Chai. Another one of Wan Chai's Grade I historic buildings, the Pak Tai Temple was built by local residents in 1863. Its namesake—known as Supreme Emperor of the Dark Heaven (玄天上帝)—was a prince of the Shang Dynasty over 3,000 years ago. A great spot for photography, it's the biggest temple you will find on Hong Kong Island."

Motorino Wan Chai

Pizza restaurant · Soho

"Motorino, Wan Chai. Hong Kong is great for many things, but as a rule, pizza isn’t one of them. In fact, most HK pizza joints will leave you scratching your head, wondering if Italy was just some sort of wonderful dream. Motorino is the exception. With DNA in both Naples and Brooklyn—undoubtedly two of Pizza’s spiritual homelands—this Wan Chai hotspot will restore your faith in this humble pie in Asia’s World City."

Tak Yu ChaChaanTeng

Hong Kong style fast food restaurant · Soho

"Tak Yu Cha Chaan Teng, Wan Chai. Hong Kong is well known for its "cha chaan teng" style cafes that serve quick meals and "tea time" snacks. The new-school, creative face of Wanchai mixes with the old in the form of this lovely, but very ­no frills neighbourhood cha chaan teng. Over lunch hour diners fill the street on plastic tables enjoying classic local comfort food and above average milk tea. While Tak Yu is more expensive than most other cha chaan tengs, it is one of the few restaurants on Hong Kong Island that still has a food stall license. Weekday lunch hour (1–2PM for most office workers) gets pretty busy, so aim for off-peak hour visit, especially in hot weather."

LQV WAN CHAI - La Cremerie

Cheese shop · Soho

"LA CREMERIE, Wan Chai. If raw cheeses are your thing (and why wouldn't you be), check out La Cremerie, located on Swatow Street. Hand-selected by Myriam, La Cremerie's friendly in-house cheese master, this cute shop imports a wide selection of high-quality, farmhouse cheese varieties from all over France. You can also pick up butter, cream, and bread in store, along with a few wines available to pair with your choices."

Maison Huit

Boutique · Soho

"Maison Huit, Wan Chai. Situated on St Francis Street among other sophisticated shops, Maison Huit is a small gallery featuring fine arts and collectibles. Exhibitions range from ceramics, porcelain, silver, glassware, and more. The space itself often hosts talks and workshops for art enthusiasts to meet the artists and designers, to learn and understand the process of creating their work.Maison Huit is more than just a shop that sells beautiful things, but also a platform that lets people understand the story, heritage, and craftsmanship involved."