The Essential Guide to Franconia

@afar
 on 2022.02.03
Multiple locations
15 Places
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A highlight of Bavaria—and Germany in general—Franconia is beloved for its picturesque landscapes, medieval towns, and rich beer and food traditions. Formerly a separate duchy of the Holy Roman Empire, the region is dotted with dense woodlands, national parks, and grapevine-covered hillsides, as well as castles, palaces, and UNESCO World Heritage sites like the old town of Bamberg and the Würzburg Residence. Credit: Collected by Paul Sullivan, AFAR Local Expert

Parking Johannisburg Castle

Permanently Closed

"Completed in 1614, Johannisburg Palace is one of the most important Renaissance castles in Germany. Located along the Main River, the immense, four-winged complex served as the second residence of the archbishop-electors of Mainz until 1803. Today, it’s home to innumerable cultural and historical treasures, including a unique collection of cork architectural models called Bringing Rome Across the Alps . The State Gallery displays early German and Dutch paintings, with a special emphasis on Lucas Cranach the Elder, while the Princely Apartments offer a fine array of neoclassical furnishings. In the Palace Church, modern technology brings the Renaissance altar to life in a new way, using light and sound installations to highlight the 31 alabaster sculptures and almost 150 relief figures. Also not to be missed is the Palace Museum, showcasing the history of Aschaffenburg, as well as the gardens, where the fruit trees and flower beds are particularly splendid in summer."

Photo by Michael Runkel/age fotostock

Pier 18

Permanently Closed

"Run by Australian chef Troy Smith, this harborside eatery borders an epic mini-golf course, complete with synthetic turf, long fairways, and impressive obstacles. Built on concrete pillars over the water, the restaurant also features a wraparound terrace, offering views across the Main River to Schloss Johannisburg. In this unique setting, diners enjoy an eclectic and constantly changing menu, complete with dishes like pumpkin-coconut soup, duck tacos, sweet potato gnocchi, and fish-and-shrimp curry. Whether you choose the Argentinian steak or the wiener schnitzel, you can expect high-quality fare made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. A great drinks list and friendly staff only make Pier 18 more enticing."

Photo courtesy of Pier 18

Würzburg Residence

Castle · Wurzburg

"The former residence of Würzburg’s prince-bishops, this UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the most important Baroque palaces in Europe. It was—remarkably, given its scale and level of detail both inside and out—built almost entirely within a single generation. Court architect Balthasar Neumann oversaw the construction, while leading architects from Germany and France created the fabulous ornamentation. Woodcarvers, sculptors, and artists from Italy—including Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, regarded as one of the greatest fresco painters of the 18th century—also contributed to the design. Rebuilt after World War II, the palace now features a bevy of architectural styles, from German and Viennese Baroque to French château. Inside, the White, Imperial, and Garden halls are can’t-miss attractions, as are the grand staircase and ceiling fresco by Tiepolo and the Mirror Cabinet. Before leaving, be sure to take a walk in the court gardens, which feature fountains, charming yew trees, and a group of cherub statues by Johann Peter Wagner."

Photo by Thomas Robbin/age fotostock

Gasthaus Alte Mainmühle

Restaurant · Wurzburg

"Alte Mainmühle German for “Old Millwheel,” Alte Mainmühle is located at the foot of Würzburg’s oldest bridge, offering sweeping vistas over the Main River to the Marienberg Fortress and surrounding vineyards. In addition to this picturesque setting, the restaurant offers traditional charm in spades, from timber-heavy dining rooms to a fireplace and double balcony with views of the bridge and fortress. On the menu, you’ll find a great selection of local beers and Franconian wines, plus a variety of seasonal cuisine, often prepared with a modern twist. Expect everything from potato-crusted zander and boiled veal in horseradish sauce to vegetarian options like potato-and-sauerkraut dumplings served with melted onions."

Photo courtesy of Alte Mainmühle

Hotel Würzburger Hof

Hotel · Wurzburg

"Conveniently located in the center of Würzburg—within easy walking distance of sights like St. Augustine’s Church, the Kiliansbrunnen fountain, and the Falkenhaus—this comfortable four-star hotel sits in a historic building with a traditional yellow facade. The 34 rooms are spacious and spotless, complete with flat-screen TVs, work desks, minibars, and modern bathrooms with Italian toiletries. At the bottom of the marble staircase, the stylish reception area is staffed around the clock and features a computer station along with services like laundry and dry cleaning, free newspapers, and welcome drinks. There can be some street noise in the front rooms, but the rear rooms are serenely quiet."

Photo courtesy of Hotel Würzburger Hof

St.Jakobskirche

Evangelical church · Rothenburg upon Tauber

"Rothenburg ob der Tauber has several significant churches, but the most famous one, for good reason, is St. Jacob’s. A short stroll from the town’s main square, the cathedral was built in stages, between 1311 and 1484, in the High Gothic style, and is famous for its high altar, religious artworks, and pair of distinctive towers, both of which are nearly 200 feet tall. Inside, visitors will find several paintings, including a depiction of pilgrims stopping here en route to Santiago de Compostela in the 15th century. The Altar of the Twelve Apostles is one of the most important of its kind in Germany, with an intricate altarpiece that depicts Christ on the cross surrounded by four angels, and the Holy Blood altarpiece in the west gallery is almost as impressive, with early 16th-century wood carvings by Tilman Riemenschneider and a glass vial that purportedly contains a drop of Christ’s blood."

Photo by volkova natalia / Shutterstock.com

herrnschlösschen

Restaurant · Rothenburg upon Tauber

"Housed in a charming hotel of the same name, the Herrnschlösschen serves gourmet cuisine in a historic dining room, complete with wooden beams dating back to 1526. Here, diners enjoy sophisticated dishes like carpaccio of smoked goose breast and braised veal with truffles, followed by elegant desserts such as pear-and-marzipan cake with raspberry sorbet and chocolate sauce. Also on offer is a solid wine list with plenty of German and French varietals, as well as a romantic garden that’s perfect for eating alfresco in fine weather. Additionally, there’s a private dining area in the cellar and a decent sister restaurant, Zur Höll, a couple blocks away in case the Herrnschlösschen is full."

Photo courtesy of Herrnschlösschen Restaurant

Bamberg

Bamberg

"Famous for being Southern Germany’s hub of the Enlightenment during the late 18th century (Hegel and Hoffmann both lived here), Bamberg is also home to a superbly preserved medieval town center, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993. Here, visitors find an endless array of architectural styles, from Gothic and Renaissance to Baroque and neoclassical, all spread through three distinct areas: the episcopal town, the island town, and the market gardeners’ town. The Romanesque-Gothic cathedral of St. Peter and St. George is Bamberg’s most prominent building (it’s home to the famous Bamberg Horseman statue, the tomb of Henry II and Cunigunde, and the only papal grave in Germany), but the New Palace and the Alte Hofhaltung Palace are also must-sees, as are the town hall, the tanners’ cottages, and “Little Venice,” a former fishermen’s village with half-timbered houses and tiny gardens. If you’re a suds fan, be sure to sample Bamberg’s famous smoked beer before leaving."

Photo by Shutterstock.com

"Housed in a castle that dates back to the early 12th century, this family-run restaurant offers a decidedly upscale Bavarian experience in a vaulted room built in 1834. The menu features a range of gourmet Franconian and Bavarian dishes, from liver dumpling soup and smoked salmon with potato pancakes to veal stew, pan-fried zander, and pork medallions with smoked beer and onion sauce, all beautifully plated with elegant sides and sauces. Be sure to order one of the traditional drinks, and save room for the cheeses and desserts, which you can burn off after your meal with a climb up the castle tower or a stroll around the courtyard."

Photo courtesy of Restaurant Altenburg

Barockhotel am Dom

Permanently Closed

"The building that houses the Barockhotel was built in the early 16th century, but refurbished and transformed into a boutique hotel in the 1970s. Today, it offers a mix of historic and modern architecture with lots of Baroque detailing, just as its name suggests. The interior, characterized by several charming nooks, features just 19 rooms, all of which are well appointed with modern conveniences and spacious bathrooms. Of special note is the hotel’s breakfast room, with its arched ceiling and views of the cathedral and city center. Additionally, the staff are very friendly, and there’s limited parking as well as secure storage for bicycles in the courtyard."

Photo courtesy of Barockhotel am Dom

Germanisches Nationalmuseum

History museum · Nuremberg

"The largest museum of its kind in the country, the German National Museum explores the country’s history through a heady mix of art, science, technology, and culture. Founded in 1852 by Franconian merchant Hans Philipp Werner, Freiherr von und zu Aufsess, it boasts 26 different sections and over 1.3 million objects, with more than 20,000 on display at any one time. The highlights are too numerous to list, but range from Paleolithic hand axes and the first pocket watch in the world to portraits by Albrecht Dürer and exhibitions on the Bauhaus movement. The museum also has several archives, a numismatic collection, a Department of Prints and Drawings that deals with graphic arts, and the largest collection of historical musical instruments in Europe. For even more, visit the affiliated Kaiserburg Museum, which includes weapons, suits of armor, archaeological items, and more relating to the Middle Ages."

Photo by Uwe Niklas

"Opened in 1896, the five-star Méridien Grand Hotel occupies a former two-story farmhouse in the center of Nuremberg. Surrounded by the town’s wide array of restaurants, museums, and shops, it’s also conveniently close to the market and castle. Over the years, the property has hosted everyone from the Dalai Lama to the Beatles in its 192 rooms, which all feature classic design, specially designed (and ultra-comfortable) Méridien beds, elegant marble bathrooms, and contemporary touches like iPod docking stations. Guests can also look forward to a solid brasserie serving regional cuisine, and free entry to the nearby Neues Museum."

Photo courtesy of Le Méridien Hotels

Hofer Str. 20

Building · Kulmbach

"Located 20 miles northwest of Bamberg, the small but pleasant town of Kulmbach has been known for beer since medieval times. Today, it’s home to Kulmbach Brewery, which owns the Bavarian Beer Museum in the former Alte Mönchshofbrauerei monastery. A multimedia institution, the beer museum features interactive displays that allow visitors to see, smell, taste, and even hear all aspects of the brewing process, while learning about the history of beer, the development of brewing, and the changing architecture of breweries themselves. Also on offer are beer tastings, beer-barrel tapping tests, and other programs and workshops, plus an excellent restaurant that offers great German cuisine and a beer garden with a children’s playground."

Photo by shutterstock

Margravial Opera House

Opera house · Bayreuth

"Bayreuth’s majestic Margravial Opera House, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2012, is one of Germany’s finest examples of Baroque court-theater architecture. Commissioned in the 18th century by Margravine Wilhelmine of Brandenburg-Bayreuth—daughter of the Prussian king and sister of Frederick the Great, and a talented musician in her own right—the theater was designed by renowned Italian architect Giuseppe Galli Bibiena, who modeled it after the opera houses of Vienna and Dresden. Today, it’s the only existing venue where opera fans can enjoy an authentic Baroque experience, complete with the original wood and canvas materials in the auditorium. Other highlights include a large stage portal framed by columns, detailed sculptures in the loge, and impressive 3-D paintings created as backdrops."

Photo courtesy of Bayreuth Marketing & Tourismus GmbH

Oskar - Das Wirtshaus am Markt

German restaurant · Bayreuth

"Set on Bayreuth’s market square inside one of the oldest buildings in town, this charming tavern dates back an impressive 600 years. Run by two families, Wenk and Bauernfeind, since 1999, it features a purely Franconian ambience of regional food, beer, and wine, all presented with a warm welcome and friendly service. Dishes like grilled beef, roast pork, and local trout are cooked to perfection, portions are big, and waiters are dressed in typical Bavarian attire. There’s also a streetside terrace that’s great for people-watching."

Photo courtesy of Oskar–Das Wirtshaus am Markt