"Ranked as one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants on the 2018 eponymous list, Chef Narda Lepes’s Narda Comedor serves healthy, seasonal meals and adds excitement through an ongoing new-flavor rotation. Vegetables play a key role but this isn’t rabbit food; the kitchen turns out succulent meats from top providers committed to wholesomeness and sustainability. Sharing dishes with your dining companions is a winning strategy."

"It would be easy to walk past this tiny, unassuming joint in the Recoleta neighborhood. But those in the know flock to La Cocina, which is still run by the Catamarca Province family that opened it 40 years ago (the owners’ grandson answers the phone and wraps up lunch orders nonstop). La Cocina’s famous empanadas are oven-baked (as opposed to fried), and this lighter take on the Argentine staple feels like something you could eat every day. Go early for lunch or dinner, as the tiny place fills up at peak hours; don’t miss the picachu , a spicy cheese-and-onion empanada. Open Monday through Saturday from noon to 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 1 a.m. By Travesías"

"Wines by the Glass in Palermo Soho With a smart and simple chalkboard menu of cheese plates, salads, sandwiches made with homemade bread, good coffee, and Argentinian wines by the glass, Pain et Vin is a lovely venue for lunch or an afternoon glass of Malbec rosado. The Palermo Soho eatery doubles as a tasting space and shop: look for Friday evening events open to the public, or stop by to choose from the excellent selection of boutique wines to take on a picnic to the park."

"Happy Hour at La Cabrera Beef is everywhere in Buenos Aires, but there are a few parrillas in town that stand above the rest for quality. Within that category, La Cabrera offers a unique experience. Yes, the focus is on the meat, but the sides almost steal the show—surprising vegetable dishes accompany each entrée, and in sharable portions. It’s typically packed with locals and tourists alike, so expect long waits any night of the week. That said, for those who can live with dinner earlier than Argentina’s customary 9 p.m. or later, La Cabrera offers an early seating they call “happy hour” that’s wait-free and includes a 40 percent discount on all menu items. By Travesías"

"Las Pizarras Bistro calls its style of cooking “market cuisine” because the chef takes inspiration from local, artisanal ingredients he purchases daily. It means the menu, written out on the restaurant’s namesake chalkboards, varies depending on what is freshest at the market that morning. The intimate, inviting space features an open kitchen where you watch cooks prepare house specialties like shrimp risotto or braised pork with roast vegetables and pear sauce. Don’t skip the passion fruit crème brûlée for dessert. By Travesías"

"If the name doesn’t tip you off, photos of Eva and Juan You-Know-Who, crammed into every available space, announce this restaurant’s campy (though not entirely tongue-in-cheek) political sympathies. No matter your ideological bent, you’ll enjoy PP’s exquisite versions of traditional Argentine stews, grilled meats, and freshwater fish. Menu items bear humorous names related to political trivia you probably won’t get, but you might learn the words to a peronista march diners and waiters intone every hour, on the hour. Order the braised osso buco with polenta or the grilled pacú (a freshwater fish) with potatoes, tomatoes, and capers. By Travesías"

"Ninina Ninina—the restaurant at the museum known as Malba (and with two other locations)—pays homage to restaurateur Emmanuel Paglayan’s Armenian heritage in the form of artisanal coffees, a full menu (try the homemade roast beef), and mouthwatering Middle Eastern pastries. The vibe is casual and cozy, with lots of sunlight and minimalist furnishings; the relaxing atmosphere and carefully crafted menu are a tonic after a full day of urban runaround."

"Behind a massive bougainvillea vine that covers a century-old mansion on the corner of a quiet, cobbled street, San Telmo’s Café Rivas evinces an elegant, 1920s vibe—but the food is decidedly contemporary. The menu is short and to the point. Three prix-fixe options are posted for lunch and change daily to delight a claque of assiduous regulars. Standout items at dinner include a nightly ceviche special and the dry-aged beef. There’s also a Sunday brunch with traditional favorites like eggs Benedict. In the evening, a bartender arrives to serve up cocktails, and there’s live piano on weekends. By Travesías"

"Founded in 1982 by local poet Rubén Derlis, this café once served as a meeting place for writers, artists, and left-leaning thinkers anxious to speak freely after years of fear and oppression under Argentina’s late-’70s military dictatorships. Order the picada , a charcuterie and cheese sampler; lubricate with a traditional local-favorite drink like a Fernet-and-Coke or a Cynar, the tangy artichoke liqueur mixed with pomelo, a sour, grapefruit-flavored soda. Wood paneling and exposed brick, walls covered in photographs, and shelves packed with antique objets make La Poesía an inviting space to linger over a book from the lending library or listen to the live tango music played on Tuesday and Thursday nights. By Travesías"

"Sunday Brunch at Elena For a chic Sunday repast, head to Elena at the opulent Four Seasons Hotel in Recoleta. Like any Buenos Aires event worth its salt, brunch here is late, 12:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. But let go of preconceived notions: You’ll find no pancakes or waffles, nor even a menu—this buffet table groans beneath a gargantuan spread of charcuterie, fish and seafood, salads, meats and sides, pastas, and desserts. All ingredients are locally sourced, so if you can possibly conceive of something that’s missing, it’s sure to be out of season. Do not miss the dry-aged beef, and save room for the so-called dolce morte , or sweet death, ice cream. By Travesías"

"El Muelle at the Fishermen’s Club Though Argentina has an extensive Atlantic coastline, seafood isn’t always a major part of the cuisine—you have to know where to go for top-quality fish and shellfish. El Muelle’s ultra-fresh fish and picturesque setting recommend it highly. Inside the venerable Club de Pescadores, or Fishermen’s Club, El Muelle’s dining room is perched on a dock that juts half a block over the Río de la Plata; spectacular estuary views frame a parade of passing yachts and sailboats. This vintage 1903 structure can get noisy; some prefer a quieter, early dinner that wraps with a stroll along the pier as the sun sets over the river. By Travesías"

"Many Buenos Aires visitors don’t realize the city is home to one of the world’s largest Jewish communities; most of the families arrived from Russia and Poland at the turn of the twentieth century. Proudly touting its immigrant cuisine, Mishiguene pays homage to the legacy with a modern take on traditional Jewish comfort foods like meorav yerushalmi (a Jerusalem-style mixed grill), bagels, pastrami, and Ashkenazi fish cakes. To try more than one item, order half-portions of dishes, or opt for the six-course tasting menu that starts off with a cocktail and includes a wine-pairing with each arrival. For a special treat, reserve the chef’s table in the restaurant’s sparkling kitchen. By Travesías"

"La Boca’s Don Carlos is heaven for the indecisive. Since there is no menu, the restaurant’s namesake owner sizes you up and intuits what you need. The idea is to feel like you’re at home, where the whims of whoever’s cooking determine what comes out of the kitchen. Everything is made from scratch, in-house, and reflects what you’d get in a typical Argentine household: pastas, Spanish tortillas, vegetable croquettes, juicy grilled meats. Plates come out in quick succession until you say uncle. Wash them down with a bottle from their impressive wine list; you’ll leave with a full belly and a smile. Closed Sundays and Boca soccer match days. By Travesías"

"Beef, beef, and more beef is what you’re likely to eat for most of your Buenos Aires stay. Tired of dead-red? There’s good pork and chicken, too. But when you overdose on protein (it happens), hit beautiful Hierbabuena, where you’ll find a wide variety of vegetarian dishes and natural food. They’ve also got vegan and gluten-free options, salads, and bread made from stone-ground organic wheat, plus a long list of fresh-squeezed juice blends. For something ultra-nourishing, order a green juice and the spinach salad with fresh dried strawberries, pecans, avocado, cherry tomato, radish, and Brie, drizzled with blueberry dressing. By Travesías"

"Club del Progreso It was 1852 and Argentine society was so polarized, the country’s very existence was threatened. Thus, Club del Progreso was born as a gentlemen’s retreat whose noble goal was to unite the nation’s political factions through thoughtful discussion and cooperation, thereby ensuring Argentina’s progress. The club still hosts academic debates on issues of national interest, and its stately, wood-paneled dining room, hung with dazzling chandeliers, frames an elegant, historical setting for trying classic Argentine fare like roast suckling pig or revuelto gramajo (scrambled eggs with potato and vegetables). By Travesías"

"One of the best-kept secrets for lunch on the go in Palermo Soho is La Francisca Feria de Campo. This deli offers excellent, freshly prepared sandwiches in unique combinations such as smoked pork tenderloin, grilled eggplant, and cheese, or, say, prosciutto, sun-dried tomato, arugula, and cheese. Four outgoing women, eager to practice their English, oversee the lively, brightly hued, kitschy scene. And La Francisca’s retail selection of local microbrews and wines, as well as pickles, preserves, cured cheeses, and salamis, are great souvenirs. Sandwiches are made to order—so go early to avoid long lunchtime lines. By Travesías"

"Originally a puertas cerradas restaurant (that is, one operated from a private residence), Doña gained such instant word-of-mouth that it quickly moved from the chef’s apartment and opened as a full-blown, public corner bistro in Almagro. Billed as comida tipo casa , the cuisine as an homage to the women in the chef’s family. As many Argentines have learned from their nonnas , pasta is the ultimate comfort food—and it’s the star of the show at Doña. Reserve a table for a dinner of house-specialty fusilli with meatballs and sauce. By Travesías"

"In 1910, Argentina received a wave of Armenian immigrants fleeing genocide. Many of the new residents settled in Palermo Soho, and several good restaurants emerged. For something a little special on Friday and Saturday nights, the community hosts a cultural and culinary experience that includes dinner and a show, the proceeds of which allow Armenian teens to visit their historical homeland. Food is served in the school cafeteria, and students wait tables as moms and grandmothers send out delicious, authentic delights. Music and dance, courtesy of the young waitstaff, also lend a lively, festive atmosphere to the entire proceedings. By Travesías"

"Argentines probably love pizza almost as much as they love a parrilla , so it’s only natural someone would combine the two delicacies to create pies loaded with open-grilled ingredients. While Avenida Corrientes is lined with parlors serving greasy, thick-crusted pies, Pizzería La Más Querida, tucked away in the Belgrano neighborhood, offers something different. Crusts are thin and crisp, with a smoky flavor from the wood-fired grill; toppings are sophisticated and surprising. Build your own or choose from house suggestions like caramelized onions, pancetta, and Gruyère, or perhaps Brie, sun-dried tomato, and basil. By Travesías"

"Local flavor (and juicy steak) at a long-time neighborhood parrilla It's slightly unnerving when you're seated too close to the next table in a jam-packed parrilla (steakhouse), the clatter of dishes and voices and the televised futbol game in the background, and your stoic waiter, a giant of a man in a stained white apron, approaches your table. As you tell him what you'd like to eat - steak, naturally, and papas fritas (french fries) and a pinguino (penguin-shaped pitcher) of the house Malbec, you notice that he's not writing anything down - in fact, he's not looking at you at all. He saunters off and you wonder if your dinner will ever arrive. A few minutes later, he's back, plonking a basket of bread on the table, splashing the wine on the paper tablecloth as he pours your drink. And then, course by course, all the dishes you ask for arrive, simply presented on white plates, and the roar of the game and the conversation around you rises to a pitch. This is Desnivel, a bare-bones San Telmo parrilla that's nearly turned into a caricature of itself. Some days you'll find more tourists than Argentinians. Other days, it's a bunch of local guys sitting around digging into the restaurant's famous deep-fried beef empanadas. Love it or hate it, it's a Buenos Aires icon."

"Fayer One positive outcome from globalization and migration is their effect on gastronomy. Fayer, an Argentine-Jewish restaurant by chef Tomás Kalika (also at the helm at Jewish fine-dining venue Mishiguene) offers clear proof. Here Argentina’s open grill meets the typical Middle Eastern mangal in an exploration that highlights Jewish food’s surprising diversity. You’ll find recipes from Jewish communities in Ethiopia and Iraq, always featuring a South American touch—a reflection of the fact that Argentina’s Jewish community is one of the largest in the world. Stocked with standbys (hummus, falafel) and swingouts (Moroccan sausage and picaña sliced beef) Fayer is a BA go-to for Levantine delights."

"Sitting down for dinner in one of thirty seats 'Treintasillas' means 'thirty seats' - and thanks to its popularity with local foodies, you'll have to plan ahead if you intend to sit in one of them. At this casually stylish closed-door restaurant - cash-only and open exclusively on Friday and Saturday evenings - Chef Ezequiel Gallardo's multi-course menu changes weekly. One spring evening in September, for example, diners start with a creamy leek, shrimp and Spanish chorizo soup, followed by a salad of potatoes, tomatoes, black olives and poached eggs with basil. Then it's onto a main course of roasted pork tenderloin and honey-glazed eggplants, followed by cardamom and coffee crème brûlée. Buen provecho!"