Lupa

"Lupa is a snoozy Italian restaurant in Greenwich Village, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Inside, children-of-divorce share rigatoni alla gricia with their slightly-absent father, and a couple who has come here every week since 1999—when this place first opened, and experienced the type of buzz that comes with being new and associated with an even buzzier spot (Babbo)—quietly enjoys their usual. In a city full of excellent Italian spots, a boring one, where everything on the menu tastes like a slightly less-good version of something you’ve had somewhere else is never going to be the best choice. But maybe you made the mistake of thinking you could walk into some place currently experiencing the kind of hype this place experienced several decades ago. In a pinch, you could do a lot worse than the totally serviceable Roman food at this dark, candlelit spot. Follow your neighbor’s lead and order a Grey Goose cosmopolitan, and get the tartufo for dessert. It’s a textbook version: predictable in a comforting way. Food Rundown Roasted Beets with Pistachio Pesto and Whipped Ricotta A take on the roasted beet and goat cheese dish that was hot several decades ago. Not terribly exciting, but a solid choice for beet enthusiasts. Pastas The pastas are all solid. Try the black spaghetti with seafood. Tartufo A textbook perfect take on an Italian restaurant classic. Pairs well with that third cosmopolitan." - Willa Moore

"For a taste of the excitement of Roman food, check out the long-running Lupa (still owned by Joe Bastianich with chef Umaru Bajaha running the kitchen), only a few blocks away. It boasts a menu with many more classic Roman dishes than Roscioli, including oxtail vaccinara and veal saltimbocca, while covering the same pasta bases as Roscioli with larger portions." - Robert Sietsema

"Is there anything more lovely than a lazy lunch at Lupa? You’d be hard-pressed to convince the regulars otherwise, as they flock in droves to this Thompson Street treasure for its amicable service, interesting wines and otherworldly pasta.Carefully sourced products are scattered throughout this menu—witness perfectly seared octopus alla piastra, starring tender faro with crispy bits of prosciutto and fennel, or a starter of plump, marinated sardines laced with oil, coarse salt and served over diced cucumber and celery. But the highlight of this parade is the pasta, which may include decadent bavette cacio e pepe, a classic preparation from Lazio. It’s nothing short of satisfying, thanks to the addition of sharp pecorino and freshly ground black pepper." - Michelin Inspector

"Lupa is Mario Batali's most accessible spot, full of ambiance and offering all sorts of affordable pastas served family style. Our favorite: Spaghetti Aglio e Olio. It's simple but the quality of the ingredients makes it luxurious. You'd never know it, but they actually have a private room in the back. Or, for a larger group, you can reserve the entire restaurant."

"James Kelly of Lupa in New York City gives advice on cooking sardines and suggests going to Eataly for sardines in the larger cities." - Amanda Gabriele