"Lupa is a snoozy Italian restaurant in Greenwich Village, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Inside, children-of-divorce share rigatoni alla gricia with their slightly-absent father, and a couple who has come here every week since 1999—when this place first opened, and experienced the type of buzz that comes with being new and associated with an even buzzier spot (Babbo)—quietly enjoys their usual. In a city full of excellent Italian spots, a boring one, where everything on the menu tastes like a slightly less-good version of something you’ve had somewhere else is never going to be the best choice. But maybe you made the mistake of thinking you could walk into some place currently experiencing the kind of hype this place experienced several decades ago. In a pinch, you could do a lot worse than the totally serviceable Roman food at this dark, candlelit spot. Follow your neighbor’s lead and order a Grey Goose cosmopolitan, and get the tartufo for dessert. It’s a textbook version: predictable in a comforting way. Food Rundown Roasted Beets with Pistachio Pesto and Whipped Ricotta A take on the roasted beet and goat cheese dish that was hot several decades ago. Not terribly exciting, but a solid choice for beet enthusiasts. Pastas The pastas are all solid. Try the black spaghetti with seafood. Tartufo A textbook perfect take on an Italian restaurant classic. Pairs well with that third cosmopolitan." - Willa Moore
