The Paris Kids Guide
Centre Commercial Kids
Clothing store · 10th Arrondissement
"Fittingly tiny, this packed-to-the-rafters shop is lined with kids clothing from up-and-coming European designers. Union Jack-emblazoned booties, tulle skirts flecked with sequins, and wee gingham shirts are as appealing to parents as they are to little ones. It's the counterpart to the main, Centre Commercial."
Baudou
Children's furniture store · Saint-Thomas d'Aquin
"Stuffed animal taxidermy, carefully turned-out cribs, incredibly chic rocking horses, kids wallpapers you wouldn't mind hanging in your living room, and wooden toys galore round out the mix at this baby-themed newcomer. Even if you're not in the mood to ship a toddler bed back home, there's plenty of packable treasures to tempt."
Paul And Joe
Clothing store · 6th Arrondissement
"Launched in the '80sâand named for owner Sophie Albou's two sonsâthis much-loved French brand traffics in a girly-meets-modern sensibility. We love the floor-skimming, floral-print gowns and flippy little skirts, which are great for both moms and their daughters."
The Centre Pompidou
Museum · Saint-Merri
"This postmodern building revolutionized the world of architectureâand turned the rarified concept of a museum into something that could be unintimidating and fun. Designed by Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers, and Gianfrancho Franchini, the Centre Pompidou is marked by an exterior lined with colorful tubes that hold the center's plumbing, electric, and circulation systemsâinside, it's just as interactive. Home to a public library, a center for music and acoustic research, and the Musee National dâArt Moderne, since its inception in 1977 some of the most important modern art in the world has graced its walls, including pieces from Dali, Pollock, Warhol, and Picasso."
Petit Pan
Fabric store · Saint-Gervais
"Owned by Belgian artist Myriam De Loor and Chinese kitemaker Pan Gang, Petit Pan revolves around delicately patternedâand exuberantly coloredâtextiles, haberdashery, clothing, and home goods. There are oilcloth bibs, intricate little mobiles made from bamboo and silk, baby quilts, pendant lights, and even ceramic tiles, which are from a recent collaboration with Carocim (they've teamed up with Monoprix and Petit Bateau in the past). They also offer crafting workshops for kids where they can learn various trades like ceramics, textile design, sewing, and kite-making."
Petit Bateau
Baby store · 8th Arrondissement
"Sure, you can get Petit Bateau across the globe, but the Paris flagships have the full range of baby goods, including the basics, which are much more affordable in Paris than they are in the States. This is a good place to stock up on shower gifts, too. There are locations all over the city, but their outpost in the 8th is nice and central (for minimal shopping bag schlepping)."
Deyrolle
Taxidermist · Saint-Thomas d'Aquin
"A devastating fire nearly destroyed Deyrolle in 2008, sending nearly 90 percent of its rarefied inventory up in smoke. Everyone rallied: Customers donated animals purchased in years past back; Christie's held an auction; Hermes reissued their "Plume" scarf to raise funds; and ultimately Deyrolle reopened its doors to a collective sigh of relief. Founded in 1831, it's one of the most special stores in the world, after all, since it's essentially a shoppable natural history museum. As you move past the gardening boutique that occupies the ground floor and climb the stairs, you'll come face to face with lions, tiger, bears, and thousands of exotic birds, butterflies, and beetlesâall carefully preserved, and even more meticulously displayed. We love the reissues of the 19th century pedagogical prints (horse breeds, the anatomy of the eye, the trees of France), which are more affordableâand packableâthan a giraffe."
Jardin des Plantes
Botanical garden · Jardin des Plantes
"First planted in 1635 as a medicinal herb garden by Guy de la Rousse, Louis XIIIâs physician, these days Le Jardin des Plantes offers 69 sprawling acres of botanical gardens, scenic trails, and a natural history museum. The highlight, though, is a small zoo, which was founded in 1795, making it the second oldest in the world thatâs still in existence (itâs outranked by Tiergarten Schönbrunn in Austria). Once home to animals from Versaillesâ royal menagerie, the zoo is now known for its unusual, exotic (and often endangered) species."
Musée de la Magie
Museum · Saint-Gervais
"Even though it occupies a 16th-century cellar beneath the Marquis de Sadeâs house, the offerings here are thoroughly child-friendly: The museum showcases antique wands and hats, optical illusions, contraptions, and loads of gorgeously rendered posters and prints. And if you have a little one who loves magic, they do a show (in French) that will totally appeal."
La Maison Des Contes Et Des Histoires
Temporarily Closed
"Tucked away in the Marais, this little art gallery is dedicated to illustrations (both antique and contemporary) along with storytelling for babies and kids up to 13. The exhibitions change every three months, and they pepper the offerings with workshops and outings."
Jardin d'Acclimatation
Amusement park · Porte Dauphine
"Located on the northern edge of the Bois de Boulogne, this kids amusement park features a small farm (it was founded as a zoo), the ExploradĂŽme museum (science), plus a full menu of other attractions, like a mini golf course, trampolines, and a house of mirrors."
Ballon de Paris
Balloon ride tour agency · 15th Arrondissement
"Head to the modern Parc André Citroën and you'll find a moored hot air balloon, which can lift 30 adults (or 60 kids) up above the skyline, offering tremendous views of Paris. This is a prime picnic spot in the summer when the kids can play in the fountains and the modern serial gardens (each is aligned with a different color) are in full bloom. Horticulturists shouldn't miss the two greenhouse pavilions, which are lined with exotic plants."
SacrĂ©-CĆur
Basilica · 18th Arrondissement
"Located at the summit of the butte Montmartreâthe highest point in the cityâa 234-step climb affords spectacular, panoramic views of Paris."
Papier Tigre
Paper store · 3rd Arrondissement
"You'd know a Papier Tigre notebook (or envelope or calendar or day planner) if you saw one. They're all distinctly colorful and geometric and always totally utilitarian. Another bonus of buying paper goods in bulk to hand out to friends back home? They don't take up much suitcase space at all, and they make recipients giddy with glee. "
La RĂŽtisserie
Restaurant · 12th Arrondissement
"Itâs casual and cozy here, which is the perfect backdrop for the rural French food on offer. We come for the delicious roast chicken on Sundays; since most restaurants are closed, it can get quite busy, but in a low-key convivial way. Ask for a table by the window overlooking the Seine."
Le comptoir
Bistro · La Monnaie
"If you find yourself with time alone, grab one of the single-occupancy tables outside, which face onto the small square; that said, if youâre saddled with the little ones, this spot is blessedly kid-friendly, too. A bottle of red and the boeuf bourguignonâserved with lemon rind, pasta, and pine nutsâis the meal to get here."
Le Café du Commerce
French restaurant · 15th Arrondissement
"Smack in the middle of Montmartre, this is a perfect quick pit stop for steak-frites, roast chicken, and cĂŽte de boeufâat great prices. The excellent lunch deal means that crowds swell, but itâs spacious and comfortable enough to accommodate them."
Chez Savy
French restaurant · 8th Arrondissement
"Situated right off the Avenue Montaigne, this tiny bistro is laid out like an old-school dining car with cozy booths, vintage luggage racks, and mirrored walls in lieu of windows. As for the rest of the decor, expect to see lots of original Art Deco elements (stained glass, frieze ceiling) left over from a time when Savy was a Jazz Age hotspot. The cuisine is traditional French (foie gras, lentil soup, andouillette sausage) and the portions are generous."
Les Cocottes
Traditional restaurant · Gros Caillou
"The only thing that outshines Les Cocottesâ brilliant use of glass jars and Staub cast-iron cocottes is the menu itself. Chef Christian Constant has developed a robust offering of salads (a nontraditional Caesar salad), soups (pumpkin, seafood bisque), and mains (ratatouille, langoustine ravioli) that satisfy without breaking the bank. And then, of course, thereâs Constantâs famous chocolate tart. Those who fly by the seat of their pants will appreciate the no-reservations policy, even though thereâs almost always a waitâwhich isn't bad, as itâs conveniently located near the Jardin du Luxembourg and the Eiffel Tower."
Nanashi Canal Saint Martin
Permanently Closed
"Rose Bakery alum Kaori Endoâs creative spin on traditional, Japanese bento boxes is a huge hit in Parisâand she has a mini-chainlet of restaurants to prove it. We like the Marais location best, as its bigger than her original spot in the 10th. Thereâs a grocery and takeaway in the front, and a handful of tables in the back, where you can feast on really beautiful plates of veggies, carefully prepared meat and fish, chirashis, and soup. There is also another location in the 10th."
Palais de Tokyo
Art center · Chaillot
"Thanks to a 2012 expansion which takes the museum all the way to the bank of the Seine, nearly tripling its original size, the open plan Palais de Tokyo is one of the best spots in Europe to see contemporary and modern art. The Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris in the eastern wing houses more than 8,000 works of 20th century art (Picasso, Matisse, Braque, Delauney, etc.) and opens onto a lovely view of the Eiffel Tower. Complete with a comprehensive children's program, artists-in-residence, opening hours that extend until midnight, an excellent bookstore (distinguished by its chain-link fence walls), and restaurants (we like Tokyo Eats), the Palais de Tokyo can easily eat up the better part of a day."
National Museum of Natural History
Research institute · Saint-Victor
"While the Jardins des Plantesâ Menagerie houses living endangered species (like red pandas and gaurs), its Natural History Museum houses taxidermy (like dodos and coelacanths), teaching kids and adults alike about the importance of conserving diverse animal life. Highlights include fossils and dinosaur skeletons in the Galerie de PalĂ©ontologie et d'Anatomie ComparĂ©e and meteorites in the Galerie de MinĂ©ralogie et de GĂ©ologie."
Ladurée
Pastry shop · 8th Arrondissement
"Thanks to loads of press and a swift global expansion in 2005 (there are now outposts in New York, London, Lebanon, Japan, Sweden, Hong Kong, Brazil, Los Angeles, and more), the LadurĂ©e celadon green is almost as iconic as Tiffany blue or HermĂšs orange. It all started in 1862 at 16 rue Royale, when writer Louis Ernest LadurĂ©e opened a pastry shop. Though macarons had been kicking around France since the sixteenth century, when Catherine de Medici introduced them from Italy, LadurĂ©eâs grandson revolutionized the concept in 1930 by using a bit of ganache to create a macaron sandwich. Beyond sweets, LadurĂ©e's dinner service is great, with a kid-friendly menu that adults can enjoy, too. Although the original LadurĂ©e is a fixture on the Champs-ElysĂ©es, there are multiple locations throughout the city to enjoy. "
SACHA FINKELSZTAJN - LA BOUTIQUE JAUNE
Caterer · Saint-Gervais
"Since 1946, the Finkelsztajn family has been holding down this yellow-fronted deli, which is known citywide for its rugelach, challah, strudels, bagels, and cheesecake. We go for the âYiddish Sandwich,â which involves red pepper spread, babaganoush and sprats on a perfectly delicate âpletzelââa soft, onion and poppy seed covered roll."
La Villette
Park · 19th Arrondissement
"Sited on a former industrial wasteland (the Parc de la Villette had served as a slaughterhouse since the 19th century until its rehabilitation in the '70s), this expansive cultural venue is the perfect marriage of old and new. Many of the original buildingsâincluding the veterinarian hospitalâare now exhibition halls, and 10 themed gardens, many of which are devoted to kids, dot the landscape. All-in, the Parc de la Villette now houses the CitĂ© des Sciences et de lâIndustrie, three major concert venues, and the Conservatoire de Paris. Photograph by Arnaud Legrain"
Panthéon
Monument · Sorbonne
"Modeled after the Pantheon in Rome, this giant mausoleum houses the remains of some of Paris's most famous citizens: Victor Hugo, Voltaire, Jean Monnet, Marie and Pierre Curie, Emile Zola, and as of 2002, Alexandre Dumas. And it was under the central dome that Léon Foucault constructed his pendulum to demonstrate the rotation of the earth (the original now lives in the Musée des Arts et Métiers). In 2007, Jacques Chirac dedicated a plaque in The Pantheon to the thousands of French citizens who harbored Jews during the German occupation, saving them from concentration camp internment."
Luxembourg Gardens
Garden · l'Odeon
"Sure, this is home to some serious business (the French Senate occupies the adjacent Luxembourg Palace and the formal gardens are some of the city's prettiest), but this giant park really shines when it comes to occupying little kids. Children can expend copious amounts of energy here, whether it's by sailing model boats in the fountains, watching shows at the puppet theatre, riding donkeys on the vintage carousel, or working the jungle gym at the large enclosed playground."
City of Science and Industry
Science museum · Pont-de-Flandre
"A planetarium, an aquarium, a submarine, an IMAX theatre? Check and check. The museum covers everything from microbiology to outer space, and kids ages 3-12 and 12-15 each get their own âCitĂ©â where learning is interactive. Plan to spend the whole day here, as it's huge (and fascinating), but avoid the weekends which get annoyingly crowded."
Parc Floral de Paris
Park · 12th Arrondissement
"At 2,500 acres (about three times the size of NYC's Central Park) the Bois de Vincennes was ample enough to act as the royal hunting grounds in the 13th and 14th centuries, and serve as the site of most of the events during the 1900 Summer Olympics. 17 years later, Dutch spy Mata Hari would be executed in the park's fortress. But we digress: The Bois de Vincenne's Parc Floral de Paris is one of four botanical gardens in the city, home to 3,000 types of plant (including 650 varieties of Iris). There are peacocks, there's a bonsai garden, and there's an annual jazz festival in the park's amphitheater that draws big crowds."
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
Park · 19th Arrondissement
"Opened in 1864, the Parc des Butte Chaumont was actually a giant public works project: It's called after Chauve-mont, which means bleak hill, because before its makeover, it was actually a dump (as well as a site where they displayed the bodies of hanged criminals). After years of terracing, planting, and construction (everything, from the man-made lake to the cliffs, was molded into shape), the park opened to huge crowds. Beyond just being a lovely place to pass the day (particularly when it's spent drinking wine at Rosa Bonheur), the grotto, waterfalls, and Temple de la Sibylle are big drawsâalong with a bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel."
The Candy Palace
Candy store · Sorbonne
"Styled to look like a 1950s classroom, Georges Marquesâs shop offers hundreds of candies sourced from all over France. Itâs kind of an amazing way to take a geography lesson, really, particularly because Georges is happy to lead willing students on a tour of the countryâs various candy-producing zones. Everythingâfrom the candied fruits to pastilles to calissons to chocolateâis arranged in old-fashioned apothecary jars."
Berthillon
Ice cream shop · Saint-Gervais
"Operating out of a little window stand on the Isle St. Louis, the ice creams and sorbets here justify the sometimes long lines. After all, itâs arguably the best in Paris. Enough said."
Monoprix
Supermarket · Saint-Gervais
"This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, it does simple clothingâstreamlined totes, striped teesâreally, really well. And at prices youâd expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet. Other locations: 9th Arrondissement, 6th Arrondissement, plus several others throughout the city."
Le Bristol Paris
Hotel · 8th Arrondissement
"This family-run hotel has been around just shy of a century, and while all the old-world hospitality rituals are observed (super-attentive staff, pristine interiors) itâs the modern luxuries, like a La Prairie spa, and three Chef Eric Frechon-helmed restaurants (two of which tout Michelin stars) that make it one of the best in the city. Whatâs more, the recently renovated rooms are uncharacteristically spacious for Paris and the suites are downright sprawling. The pool, epic play room, and lush courtyard are almost as popular with the littlest guests as the resident Burmese cats, Fa-Raon and KlĂ©opatre."
Pain d'Epices
Toy store · 9th Arrondissement
"If you have a young collector on your hands, look no further: This old-world spot is an amazing resource for dollhouse furniture."