The Essential Guide to Istria

Agroturizam Tončić
Farmstay · Istarska
"Agroturizam Tončić If you want to check out a real-deal agritourism operation (a family-run working farm), Tončić is the top choice. Located in a hilly hamlet in Istria’s bucolic interior, the farm not only has panoramic views of Čićarija mountain and the Mirna river valley, but also serves up succulent lamb and potatoes, roasted under peka (a traditional, dome-shaped baking lid). While most people come for the lamb, you should also try the handcrafted pastas, Istrian prosciutto, and dishes featuring game meat, truffles, and wild asparagus. The terrace is a lovely spot to linger over a meal, but should the weather not cooperate, the rustic interior with a fireplace is equally cozy. Be sure to make a reservation ahead of time."

Karlić truffles - GIR Ltd.
Gourmet grocery store · Istarska
"Some of the most fun you can have in Istria involves roaming the forests around the medieval town of Motovun with the Karlić family, hunting for truffles. Based in a tiny village near Buzet, the Karlićs have been in business since the 1960s—the third generation runs things today—and are veritable experts when it comes to finding both white and black truffles. During the family’s two-hour truffle-hunting experience, guests get to learn all about the tradition, the variety of truffles found in Istria, and the dogs trained to sniff for treasure underneath ancient oak trees. Plus, they get to taste a variety of different truffle products."

Humska Konoba
Temporarily Closed
"Not only does Humska Konoba have a covered terrace with dazzling views of Istria’s hill-strewn hinterland, but the restaurant is also located in one of the world’s smallest towns and serves some of the most honest, delicious Istrian cuisine you’ll find anywhere on the peninsula. Whether you opt for hand-rolled fuži (Istrian pasta), maneštra (a rich, local take on minestrone), or a fritaja (an omelet with truffles or wild asparagus in spring), you’re in for a treat at this hilltop favorite. Pair your meal with a shot of humska biska (mistletoe grappa) or a glass of Istrian teran (red) or malvazija (white) wine, then stick around to take in the marvelous vistas."

Hotel Kastel
Hotel · Istarska
"Rest your head in a 17th-century palace in the heart of medieval Motovun, an enchanting little town that tops one of Istria’s numerous hills. The hotel’s small spa with an indoor pool is a lovely spot to unwind, the restaurant offers stellar Istrian specialties, and the 33 rooms are all tastefully designed. The real draw here, however, is the historical setting—just off Motovun’s main square with its Renaissance palace and church. Sip coffee on the chestnut tree–shaded terrace in front of the hotel, or simply enjoy the vistas of Istria’s bucolic landscape from your room."
Hotel Vela Vrata
Hotel · Pinguente
"Another one of Istria’s hilltop highlights, this stylish boutique hotel is perched in the medieval town of Buzet, known for being Istria’s center of truffles—and decidedly less crowded than Motovun. It features just 19 rooms, complete with wood accents, antique-style furnishings, modern conveniences like Wi-Fi, and lovely views, as well as an on-site restaurant that serves seasonal dishes made with local ingredients like white truffles, wild asparagus, prosciutto, and boškarin (Istrian ox). There’s also a small spa with an indoor pool and Finnish sauna, helping make Hotel Vela Vrata a dreamy home base for exploring Istra’s interior."
Euphrasian Basilica
Basilica · Poreč
"For Byzantine art at its best, head to this 6th-century basilica, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Located in the historic heart of Poreč, the remarkably preserved building is one of Europe’s most outstanding examples of religious architecture. In addition to the basilica with its fusion of classical and Byzantine elements, the complex includes an atrium, an octagonal baptistery, and an episcopal palace. When exploring the site, don’t skip the dazzling mosaics in the apse of the basilica, the views of Poreč’s Old Town from the belfry, and the religious paintings and ancient stone sculptures in the palace."

Crkva sv. Eufemija
Catholic church · Rovigno D'istria
"Church of St. Euphemia For mind-blowing views of the Rovinj archipelago, visit this hilltop church and climb the bell tower, which features a copper statue of Saint Euphemia that rotates around its axis as the wind blows. On a really clear day, you’ll be able to spot the Alps in the distance. Afterward, explore the church itself. Constructed in the early 18th century, it’s a remarkable feat of Baroque architecture, with richly decorated altars, beautiful paintings, a marble sarcophagus with relics of Saint Euphemia, and a Venetian-style facade that was added in the late 19th century."

Dolphin Watching Rovinj
Temporarily Closed
"Go searching for Adriatic bottlenose dolphins on boat trips guided by local marine guides who are trained to track these spectacular sea animals and interpret their behavior. Excursions depart from Rovinj and head out to the dolphin-rich waters between Brijuni Islands National Park and the Lim Channel, lasting for up to three hours. On 90 percent of the outings, guests see dolphins—if they don’t, they get another trip for free. Whether you see dolphins spyhopping (raising their heads vertically out of the water), lobtailing (forcefully slapping their flukes against the surface of the water), or breaching (leaping out of the water and landing with a loud splash), you’re guaranteed a hugely fun afternoon."

Batana Eco-Museum
Tourist attraction · Rovigno D'istria
"At this small museum in a 17th-century town house by the sea, you can learn about the batana , the wooden, flat-bottom boat that’s long been a part of Croatia’s maritime heritage. Tour the interactive exhibits to discover fishing traditions kept alive through the centuries, like the bitinadas , or typical fishing songs. On the medieval pier of Mali Mol, which functions as the outdoor portion of the museum, you can see moored batanas and chat with the fishermen as they mend their nets. The museum also arranges boat trips guided by barkariaoli (boatmen) as well as traditional meals in the on-site Spacio Matika tavern, which features stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings."

Ul. Sv. Križa 24
Istarska
"Tucked away on the rocks in Rovinj’s Old Town, this cheerful café-cum-bar offers creative drinks and a boho-chic vibe. Valentino, just a few doors down, is the pioneer of cliffside bars in the area and still worth checking out, but Mediterraneo has a slightly more offbeat, laid-back feel—and whips up excellent ginger-and-pepper G&Ts, to boot. The owners even run a travel agency and can help you book private accommodations, tours, and reservations at their Mediterraneo Secret Garden, an outdoor dining spot just outside Rovinj, set amid olive trees and vineyards."

Monte
Temporarily Closed
"Chef and owner Danijel Dekić opened Monte right below St. Euphemia Church, in the courtyard of his parents’ house, back in 1985. Today, it’s a Michelin-star restaurant, where a grape tree grows inside the stone-walled interior and engagements often happen at the “Romeo and Juliet” table in the alfresco alcove. The food here is Mediterranean with a molecular twist, but the tasting menus are constantly changing. One night you may eat tuna tartare with baby clams, crème fraiche, and panko egg; the next, slow-roasted suckling pig with lentils, pork rind, onion marmalade, and geranium."

Hotel Adriatic
Hotel · Rovigno D'istria
"Hotel Adriatic Art is the focus of this quirky hotel, located right on the seafront in Rovinj’s main square. In fact, artwork adorns almost every corner of the historic building—both the rooms and public spaces feature breathtaking works commissioned by a curator and created exclusively for the hotel. In the 14 rooms and four suites, you’ll find everything from a stunning oil painting by Croatian painter Zlatan Vehabović to wall drawings by French artist Abdelkader Benchamma (many also boast spectacular views of the island of St. Katarina across the way). The original staircase features an installation by Austrian artist Valentin Ruhry, while the French-inspired brasserie and café on the ground floor showcases works by Sofija Silvia and Jasmina Cibic."

Hotel Lone
Hotel · Rovigno D'istria
"A contemporary take on a classic 1970s Adriatic resort, Hotel Lone is Croatia ’s first and only member of the Design Hotels network. The gleaming-white, Y-shaped building may sit amid the forests of Zlatni Rt Park (a 10-minute seafront stroll from the Old Town of Rovinj), but its five-story lobby forgoes nature for flowing golden fabrics, rich murals, and a suspended steel sculpture. The Scandinavian-style accommodations are decidedly more minimalist, with lots of wood and natural light aplenty—plus plunge pools on park-facing terraces in the 16 Jazz rooms. Facilities include an 18,300-square-foot spa with an indoor pool, eight treatment rooms, and a unisex sauna complex, as well as the stellar ResoLution Signature Restaurant."
Kamene price jazz apartments
Serviced accommodation · Istarska
"One of Istria’s quirkiest spots, this hideaway inside a 17th-century town house in the ancient stone town of Bale (itself worth a wander) wears many hats. It functions as a café, bar, restaurant, and event space—it hosts the Last-Minute Open Jazz Festival every August—as well as an inn, complete with three apartments with kitchenettes and Wi-Fi. Book a room and spend the night, or simply head to one of the interior stone terraces and while away an evening over food, drinks, and interesting conversation with fellow guests. Kamene Priče is also a short drive from one of Istria’s most secluded stretches of shoreline, making it the perfect base for exploring the region."

Meneghetti Wine Hotel & Winery
Hotel · Istarska
"Set amid olive groves and vineyards in the middle of the Istrian countryside, this typical stancija (homestead) is small—it has just four rooms and suites—but delightful. It first opened as an exclusive restaurant serving regional cuisine, wines from its own vineyard (one of Istria’s most renowned), and single-sort extra-virgin olive oils (made from indigenous olives and lauded for their quality). As its reputation grew, however, Meneghetti transformed into a boutique hideaway with rustic rooms—and a Relais & Châteaux designation, to boot. Lounge on the series of outdoor terraces, swim in the indoor and outdoor pools, and dine on creative dishes like bream sashimi and lamb chops with stuffed zucchini."

Brijuni
Archipelago · Inland waters of Croatia
"Northwest of Pula and just offshore from the seaside town of Fažana, this 14-island archipelago comprises vast meadows; forests of pine, holm oak, and laurel; rare flora like marine poppy and wild cucumber; and an ancient olive tree that’s said to be 1,600 years old. While nature is the main focus here, Brijuni was also the summer playground of former Yugoslavian president Josip Broz Tito. To learn more about the dictator, visit Veli Brijun, the park’s largest island, which is only accessible by guided tour. During the excursion, you’ll take in an exhibit about Tito as well as a safari park and zoo with exotic animals gifted to him by politicians from around the world. You’ll also see the remains of Roman villas, an ancient church with frescoes, and several dinosaur footprints."

EatIstria
Cooking class · Pluj
"Whether you want to learn the secret to filleting fish, cook a traditional Istrian dish like žgvacet , or explore the peninsula’s top wineries, look no further than Eat Istria, run by food blogger Goran Zgrablić. The outfitter picks guests up in Pula and brings them to a family farm between Medulin and the village of Ližnjan, where they can enjoy a highly personalized cooking class on dishes like handmade Istrian pastas, or simply have a marenda (light lunch) in an olive grove. If you wish to travel farther afield, Zgrablić can also arrange for tours of Istria’s small, family-run wine cellars."

Pula Arena
Amphitheater · Pluj
"The sixth-largest Roman amphitheater still standing today, the Pula Arena is Croatia’s most magnificent classical monument—and reason enough to check out Pula, Istria’s main city. Built in the 1st century C.E. during the rule of Emperor Vespasian, this oval-shaped stunner once hosted gladiator fights and could hold up to 23,000 spectators. Today, visitors can roam freely through the small underground chambers and enjoy the sweeping ocean views. During the summer months, the arena doubles as the most imposing stage in all of Croatia , hosting several concerts and film festivals."

Kamenjak
Peninsula · Istarska
"Located on the southern tip of the Istrian peninsula, this rugged nature park is the perfect place to set off with a backpack and be active for the day. You can follow in the fossilized footprints of the dinosaurs at Cape Grakolovac, visit an Istrian ox farm and have lunch at a family-owned agritourism operation, lounge at the funky seafront Safari Bar overlooking the Mala Kolombarica cove, ride a bicycle along the orchid trail, kayak or windsurf along the coast, or swim in coves with crystal-clear water. To learn more about the park, head to the House of Nature Kamenjak in the nearby town of Premantura."

Batelina
Restaurant · Istarska
"Run by a family of fishermen, this tiny, no-frills tavern just south of central Pula is the place to go for exquisite seafood, with unique offerings like fish liver and salted dried roe. In fact, whatever the family catches during their morning run will likely end up on your plate, whether it’s fish tripe, catfish fries, or roasted bream skin. Be sure to make a reservation and bring enough cash, then keep an open mind—instead of a set menu, chef David Skoko will choose your dishes for you, picking from what the sea churned out that day."
