Ops

"You could break all the entries on this list into two categories: places that would put ramps on pizza, and places that would not. Ops belongs in the first bucket, but their various seasonal toppings—which range from sweet potatoes to aji dulce peppers—are only part of the reason why you come here. Tangy, fluffy, and perfectly charred, Ops’ sourdough crust is one of the better inventions of the 2010s. Most of the pies here are a cross between New York and Neapolitan-style, but there’s an exceptional, crunchy square option as well. This Bushwick spot also has a list of natural wines and a candlelit dining room, so it’s perfect for a casual date." - willa moore, bryan kim, neha talreja, kenny yang

"The pizza at Ops fits somewhere between crispy New York-style and soppy-in-the-middle Neapolitan. Each slice remains straight when you hold it up in the air, but the crust puffs up like a balloon. Truthfully, it doesn’t matter what you call the style. What matters is that you’re going to want to become a regular at this dimly lit sourdough pizza emporium. Don’t leave without trying the “Cicero,” which the menu accurately describes as having “many onions.″ Ops pulls their own mozzarella in house almost daily, so order any pie that features it. We also suggest a calzone or the thicker square pie if you’re with a group." - neha talreja, hannah albertine, bryan kim, sonal shah, willa moore

"You’re going to want as much of Ops’ phenomenal sourdough as possible. Whether that means getting a loaf of their bread on the side or going for the square pie, which is about twice as thick as their regular one, you can’t go wrong." - team infatuation

"When we go to Ops in Bushwick, we often wish that our ancestors had made careers out of throwing pizza parties, so they could have taken on the surname “Pizzapartymen.” This homey sourdough destination is a place for fellow Pizzapartymen wannabes, complete with big cans of tomatoes on every table and great wine. Try the Juno pizza with potatoes, broccoli rabe, and a mix of creamy provola and sharp ricotta salata, and be sure to get the massive square pie topped with tomatoes, mozzarella, and briny olives." - hannah albertine, kenny yang

"Ops perfected their sourdough long before everyone jumped on the naturally leavened dough-train. Each time we eat here, their wood-fired pizzas seem to get tangier. In terms of style, Ops’ pies fit somewhere between crispy New York and soppy-in-the-middle Neapolitan: each slice remains straight when you hold it in the air, but the crust puffs up like a balloon. Truthfully it doesn’t matter what you call the style. What matters is that you’re going to want to come to their dimly lit, sexy sourdough pizza emporium in Bushwick every week, like you owe them starter money." - bryan kim, willa moore, kenny yang, carlo mantuano, molly fitzpatrick