Isla Holbox

"Even with its counter dormant during a 2023 remodel, Gilberto Cetina’s jewel box of a mariscos restaurant, Holbox (pronounced ol-bosh), kept crowds gathered just outside the doors of Mercado La Paloma with a truck parked in front. There, diners could order from a tightened menu that included some of the 6-year-old restaurant’s greatest hits: the taco de pulpo en su tinta, “su tinta” referencing the ink-stained sofrito the curled octopus tentacle rests upon; limey, lip-puckering aguachiles and cocteles served with tostadas and Saladitas crackers, respectively; a smoked kanpachi tostada topped with bay scallop and zigzags of a nutty chile de arbol sauce. Its $115 8-course tasting menu, which features a rotating selection of Cetina’s most-loved dishes, returned last spring with a few more seats at the counter. Still, after its Michelin star recognition in 2024, better to make a reservation for the two dinnertime seatings, which are held on Thursdays and Fridays at 6 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. only. — Nicole Adlman, cities manager" - Eater Staff

"Holbox is one of our favorite go-tos for high-end Mexican seafood, so when they started doubling as a seafood market in May, we knew they’d have great fish, too. They’ve kept it up since re-opening for dine-in service - their takeout selection changes by the week, but you can expect a couple different kinds of scallops, sushi-grade kanpachi, and sushi-grade whole striped bass. Order on their site." - brett keating

"If Tock refuses to let you ball out at n/naka, then it’s time to console yourself with some of the best Mexican seafood in the city. Holbox’s new at-home taco kits come with three different kinds of tacos - Baja-style fish, octopus, and scallops - as well as their excellent mixed ceviche, black beans, rice, and pico de gallo. Sure it’s “meant for two people,” but just like my continued, naive optimism, that really means nothing." - brant cox, kat hong, brett keating, james montgomery

"Holbox is a tiny stall inside Mercado la Paloma and home to some of the best and most inventive seafood in LA - think ceviche tostadas, chile rellenos stuffed with yellowtail, and raw oysters by the dozen. That said, don’t you dare leave without getting an order of the scallop tacos - each one comes with four perfectly-seared scallops wrapped in a thick house-made corn tortilla before being topped with fennel, caramelized onions, and spicy chile sauce. Enjoy it all on the market’s large outdoor patio." - brant cox

"Holbox—one of the clear Best Restaurants in LA, by our measure—is a small but mighty food stall inside Mercado La Paloma that serves inventive mariscos without making them unrecognizable to traditionalists. The Historic South Central spot, run by the same chef as Chichen Itza, dresses up West Coast seafood with delicious things like marinated fennel, chile de arbol-infused soy sauce, and calamari ink sofrito. Order the kanpachi and uni tostada for a bite you'll talk about (and annoy your friends over) for weeks. It has tons of lime and juicy tomato flavor, plus extra creaminess from avocado puree and heat from a smoky arbol-guajillo sauce. No matter what time you show up, expect a line." - sylvio martins, garrett snyder, brant cox