Duddell's

"A great man once said “when you look annoyed all the time, people think that you’re busy”. It’s a true and useful observation. Next time you can’t be bothered to have somebody talk to you at work, put a frown on your face and rub the bridge of your nose. It’s fail safe. Similarly, if a person dresses smartly, talks over 75 decibels and eats at Duddell’s, then you might think they are a Very Important Person. This is because Duddell’s is a restaurant for people who look like they could be Very Important People. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. It’s just that Duddell’s is geared to serve a very specific type of person and situation. Namely one that wants to be impressed by a grand room with grand service and a grand bill. And that’s okay. You just need to know what you’re getting into. Duddell’s is in the former St Thomas’ Church in London Bridge, so it’s all high ceilings, big windows and gold detail. There’s nothing quiet or unassuming here, and that extends to the food. If you’re into a man carving your Peking duck tableside like he’s playing a violin, then you’re in luck. The duck here comes in two rounds: firstly (and excellently) with pancakes, and secondly (and more disappointingly) in a choice of sauce. Duddell’s specialises in truffle based sauces, because... Duddell’s. But being serenaded by a duck isn’t for everyone, and that’s why there’s the Dim Sum Symphony: an extremely tasty box of multi-coloured fish shaped dumplings. Dim Sum is where Duddell’s is at its best. It’s tasty, well done and reasonably priced (in the scheme of things). Although the enormous and delicious cheung fun dumplings have been removed from the menu, the rest of the dim sum offering is equally worth ordering. Duck and dumplings aside, the rest of the menu ultimately depends on whether you’re willing to pay a frankly unholy amount to eat. This is a busy place full of important people talking about important things. Is it important to them that half a Peking duck, rice, sweet and sour pork, and vermicelli noodles is going to cost them close to £80? Probably not, because it tastes pretty good. The duck and the dumplings are the things to get here: they’re really delicious. But everything else falls into the ‘that tastes how I expect it to’ bracket. This isn’t a bad thing per se, vermicelli noodles, sweet and sour pork, spring rolls and the like are all perfectly good. But are they good enough for you to pay double what you’d usually expect to for the same things? We’re not sure. Restaurants like Duddell’s suit certain situations. Situations that involve suits, and work credit cards, and people who shout ’SCUSE ME across the room at someone they think is a waiter. Everyone likes to pretend they’re Very Important every now and again and, ultimately, this isn’t a bad place to do it. Food Rundown photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Dumplings Symphony These fish shaped dumplings are packed with prawns, scallops and crab. They taste superb. Pork Siu Mai These classic steamed pork dumplings are worth an order off the dim sum menu. Peking Duck Pancakes When a suited man comes to your table holding a cleaver, you may think the worst, but this is just some expert Peking duck theatrics. Very delicious. photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Seafood Vermicelli Noodles These scallop-y noodles taste nice enough and are a pretty hefty portion. Well worth ordering if you’re price-conscious. Asparagus And Mushroom In Black Truffle Sauce A classic let’s-put-truffle-in-for-the-sake-of-it dish. Forgettable. Sweet And Sour Pork Looks like sweet and sour pork and tastes like sweet and sour pork." - Jake Missing

"Duddell’s is as much about art as it is about food. It is the venue of regular art shows and screenings, as well as traditional Cantonese fare using luxury ingredients. Certain dishes need pre-ordering, such as the crispy skin chicken over which the chef ladles hot oil 300+ times to make the paper-thin skin crispy and the meat silky. Osmanthus scrambled eggs with bean sprouts, crabmeat and shrimp are fluffy and aromatic, imparting fine wok hei." - Michelin Inspector

"So if you’re going to consume a mooncake, might I suggest the Lava Cream Egg Custard from Duddell’s? Don’t be fooled by the name, this is not a British pub, this is a Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant of the highest caliber. Every year, they partner with an artist to produce a mooncake hamper so beautiful you’d better keep it forever. Every year, the mooncakes taste the same, whether they’re encased in an LED lantern box or a spaceship (because spaceships take you to the moon, get it?). The egg yolks are steamed with rose wine for mooncake filling, encased in golden, buttery pastry and pressed by hand into wooden molds, creating a light but rich pastry with a yolky center. This is a mooncake ridiculously luxurious and decadent, without the use of any absurd ingredients. And yet, it is austere in construction and traditional in appearance. It is agony not having one in my hands at this moment. This mooncake alone is worth the trip to Hong Kong." - Kiki Aranita

"Duddell’s is most definitely a scene - it’s on top of the Shanghai Tang flagship store, has a couple of different rooms, and is highly photogenic - but it also has some pretty excellent food. It’s high-end, but the dim sum is great quality, and if the weather’s good, the outdoor terrace is a perfect spot to spend an afternoon." - jess basser sanders

"With two Michelin stars, Duddell’s—helmed by Executive Chef Siu Hin-Chi—is an arts-devoted restaurant stylishly merging Hong Kong’s joint British and Chinese heritage to great success, serving contemporary spins on traditional Cantonese cuisine—especially dim sum—in a cool setting reminiscent of a country estate. On any given day they also host lectures, talks, screenings, and guest curated exhibitions of international modern and contemporary art, including some local to Hong Kong, and some on loan from private collectors—while the food is exceptional, the art in and of itself makes it a must. As an added bonus, their garden terrace is a welcome escape from the city streets."