Craft

"Some restaurants are just cool. They always look good (but also like they didn’t try), they’re playing the new Kendrick Lamar song before you even knew it existed, and they put anchovies, figs, and yogurt on the same plate and somehow make it taste good. Craft is not one of those places. It’s the Reese Witherspoon of restaurants - definitely trying really hard, not particularly cool, but also extremely good at what it does. Which is exactly why we love it. Chances are, if you’re not an agent or a lawyer or a frequent visitor to Candy Spelling’s penthouse, you’ve never been to Craft. It’s in Century City, and voluntarily going to Century City for dinner is probably not something you make a point of. It’s also the LA location of a Tom Colicchio restaurant in NYC - a series of words that usually only appeals to Top Chef superfans. And it involves things like an amuse bouche, a pre-dessert, and extremely good soundproofing. So yeah, Craft sounds pretty boring. And maybe it is, but only in the way that Oscar winners who managed to make you love Tracy Flick are boring. photo credit: Jakob Layman Because it’s essentially impossible to have a bad time at Craft. Even if you’re not the head of WME, you’ll be treated like you are. Your wine glass will never be empty, and they even send you home with little baked goods that will put you in a good mood the next morning. There’s more of a vibe than you’d expect - the bar up front is always filled with office dwellers swapping war stories, and the dining room has tables spaced so you can do your business deal in peace. And then there’s the food. You might look at the menu and think “meh”- but you’ll get over that feeling quickly. All the business dinner hits are present - expensive scallops, pieces of fish, salads, and very large $100 steaks - and they’re some of the best versions around. Not all restaurants need to be playing Beastie Boys deep cuts or putting grapefruit slices on everything, and metaphorically shrugging their shoulders while doing it. Craft is a type A restaurant, which means it’s not the coolest - but it makes for an excellent eating experience. We suspect Reese would probably agree. Food Rundown photo credit: Jakob Layman Quail and Cheddar Grits We’d feel bad about eating such tiny little birds if they weren’t so tasty. These are simply and perfectly cooked (this will be a theme), and hang out on top of some cheesy grits. A good, if heavy, way to start. Rigatoni, Italian Sausage, & Green Garlic Well-cooked pasta with bit of fennel-y sausage, and even some healthy green things in there too. If people on your table are currently eating carbs, get this. photo credit: Jakob Layman Diver Scallops & Vermouth Butter There is no way on earth three scallops and some butter will ever be worth $34. But in all likelihood, you’re charging dinner on the company anyway. In which case, order right ahead. photo credit: Jakob Layman Farm Chicken A roast chicken is a roast chicken is a roast chicken. But this is a very good roast chicken, with salty, crispy skin and super-moist meat. Note that this comes on it’s own, so loading up on sides is highly recommended. photo credit: Jakob Layman Yukon Gold Purée Perfect. Just don’t think about the likely pound of butter in each serving. photo credit: Jakob Layman Assorted Mushrooms Not many restaurants have a whole section of the menu devoted to different types of mushroom side dishes. Which means ordering mushrooms here is a requirement. photo credit: Jakob Layman Warm Chocolate Tart Not too chocolatey, not too caramely, not enough of the black date ice cream. There could never be enough of the black date ice cream." - Jess Basser Sanders

"It’s been decades since Tom Colicchio first opened Craft to great acclaim, but the easy charms of the celebrity chef's downtown institution haven’t waned a bit. The urbane setting, with its leather paneling, filament lights and brick-covered columns, is especially convivial and filled every night with well-heeled regulars who flock here to savor the triple threat of cozy décor, elegant food and a crackerjack service team.Dinner might kick off with a cured slice of crudo, served with shaved fennel, radish and microgreens in a Meyer lemon dressing. A plate of gnocchi is comfort food at its very best. Served in a polished copper dish, each tender knob of potato gnocco is bathed in a subtly seasoned, rich butter-cheese sauce." - Michelin Inspector

"Restaurants like The Walrus & the Carpenter in Seattle, and Craft in New York followed suit, but ultimately walked the practice back, citing lost business and trouble retaining waitstaff." - ByMaggie Hennessy

"Tom Colicchio’s flagship restaurant Craft — now celebrating its 20th anniversary in the Gramercy Park neighborhood — has always enjoyed an intimate relationship with mushrooms: roasted, buttered, sauteed, or pureed. There are always a number of mushroom choices among apps and sides, depending on season. Delivered in a pan, the restaurant’s classic assortment of mushrooms is on pandemic hiatus, but at press time, there are roasted black hen of the woods flavored with shallot butter with herbs as well as butter-poached morels. You can blow more money on mushrooms here than at most other restaurants in town." - Robert Sietsema

"Gramercy fine dining restaurant Craft is hosting a relaxed summer pop-up with seasonal small plates, summery cocktails, and housemade ice creams." - Luke Fortney