"Tom Colicchio’s flagship restaurant Craft — now celebrating its 20th anniversary in the Gramercy Park neighborhood — has always enjoyed an intimate relationship with mushrooms: roasted, buttered, sauteed, or pureed. There are always a number of mushroom choices among apps and sides, depending on season. Delivered in a pan, the restaurant’s classic assortment of mushrooms is on pandemic hiatus, but at press time, there are roasted black hen of the woods flavored with shallot butter with herbs as well as butter-poached morels. You can blow more money on mushrooms here than at most other restaurants in town." - Robert Sietsema