"Tucked up under the eaves of the Hotel Helvetia are two apartments, and I’ve stayed in one on every visit. The walls of the apartment are hung with artworks by Verena Loewensberg, Erik Steinbrecher, James Turrell, and Beat Zoderer and there’s a Hästens bed in each. But for lifelong insomniacs, like me, the real luxury is a kitchenette that allows me to make a nice cup of tea before the cafe downstairs is open, a big table for working, and walls of leaded glass windows that open wide so I can let February’s fat snowflakes and the sound of the churchbells drift in." - Maggie Harrison