Bourdain ate: poulet en vessie (chicken cooked inside a pig’s bladder) Lunch dates: Mathieu Viannay chef at Mere Braziere, Joseph Viola chef at Daniel et Denise, and Alain Ducasse chef and CEO of Ducasse Paris; all are instructors at Institut Paul Bocuse, and Boulud

Bourdain ate: sabodet (sausage made from pig’s head, tongue, and beef) Lunch dates: Georges Reynon chef and owner of Reynon and Daniel Boulud, French chef, and owner of Dinex restaurant group that includes Daniel, Café Boulud, and Bar Boulud in New York City

Tony visited Chef Boulud's childhood school in this town, where Chef Boulud explained the fresh, healthy meals students are given here. They had pumpkin soup, fish with couscous, cheese with chocolate and orange segments.

Tony ate here with Chef Boulud and Bill Buford, a former fiction editor at The New Yorker. They had quenelle de brochet en gratin maison (gratin dumplings).

Bill Buford called this "a very male tradition," called the Franc Machon. They ate Blanquette de Veau (slowly stewed neck and shoulder of veal with mushrooms served over rice); bread, Beaujolais wine.

Chefs Michel and Cesar Troisgros carry on the family tradition of nouvelle cuisine. Tony had salmon in sorrel sauce, a dish that he says changed the world.

Tony said it had always been his dream to eat here. Paul Bocuse is considered the father of modern French cuisine. They ate soupe aux truffes noires V.G.E. (black-truffle soup named after former French President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing); loup en croûte feuilletée (sea bass in pastry crust); choron (béarnaise or hollandaise sauce made with tomato purée); pot-au-feu (French beef stew); lièvre à la royale (roasted hare).