"Lisbon is one of Europe’s oldest cities but it’s far from staid. In fact there’s something decidedly unruly about it: massive murals coat tumbledown façades, azulejo-covered townhouses abut cutting-edge museums and those indefatigable yellow trams have the jerkiest of brakes. With its glistening river views and nearby sandy beaches, Lisbon is a laidback and liveable city. So take a stroll and soak it all in – with the help of a shot of ginjinha and a grilled sardine or two." To view the full guide, visit and subscribe at the link below.

Prado

Restaurant · Rossio

"Rumour has it the idea behind Prado’s design came from the building itself. When head chef and owner António Galapito first came to see the space – an abandoned factory – plants had wrapped themselves around the pulley system and were hanging from the ceiling. Today, the chef hopes that the restaurant continues to be a verdant inner-city enclave – expect a leafy setting and farm-to-table dishes."

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Baixa House

Vacation home rental agency · Rossio

"You would be forgiven for walking straight past this 18th-century block of self-catered apartments on a bustling street in Baixa: there’s no reception desk or sign above the door, just a discreet doorbell. Once inside, a sweeping staircase leads to 13 airy apartments, each of which is individually styled and and inspired by a famous Lisbon garden: you’ll note the references in the floral Josef Frank wallpapers, framed photographs and cut flowers. Eclectic vintage furniture completes the homely look. Owner and landscape architect Jesús Moraime was keen to ensure that the rooms were furnished with regional products: cabinets are stacked with Bordallo Pinheiro crockery, blankets are sourced from the Serra da Estrela region and rugs come from Alentejo. Every day, staff restock the fridge with fresh breakfast items such as yoghurt, fruit and cake."

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Pateo - Bairro do Avillez

Restaurant · Chiado

"This is the latest restaurant in chef José Avillez’s stable, which now stands at seven in Lisbon. Skip the chaotic front bar and head to the restaurant at the rear. Set under huge roof lights, it’s bright, open and surprisingly tranquil for such a large space. Avillez sources Portuguese ingredients, including a must-try blue lobster, serving them with reference to traditional approaches and a much-refined palate. Seafood and fish dominate – the lobster-and-crab rice is exemplary – but meat is also available."

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Cortiço & Netos

Tile store · Estefanía

"Joaquim José Cortiço spent some 30 years salvaging discontinued azulejos from manufacturers, amassing an enviable hoard. In 1979 he established a hardware shop and soon made a name for himself as the go-to man for tile repairs, often receiving letters from people looking for rare replacement pieces. Today, Joaquim’s netos (grandsons) – João, Pedro, Tiago and Ricardo Cortiço – have injected new life into the business with this smart retail space. Displayed on simple pine shelves in a pixelated patchwork, the ever-expanding collection now includes more than 300 different patterns and millions of square metres of tiles. Designs range from blocky mid-century geometrics to kitsch floral motifs and are sold both individually and in batches."

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Museu Calouste Gulbenkian

Art museum · Rego

"“One museum, two collections.” That’s the direction in which UK director Penelope Curtis has taken the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian. Until now the museum’s two arms have functioned as separately as they appear physically: the Founder’s Collection opened at one end of the flower-filled garden in 1969; the Modern Collection at the other end in 1983."

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MAAT

Museum · Zona Interdita

"Many of Lisbon’s most prominent contemporary buildings aim to reaffirm the city’s relationship with the Rio Tejo but none do it so spectacularly as Amanda Levete’s Maat (Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia). A sinuous form that’s been grafted onto a 1908 red-brick power station, the appearance of its 15,000 tessellating white tiles shifts with the light. Within, a cave-like central chamber provides low-lit respite from the dazzling riverbank; above, an undulating roof terrace affords panoramic views of Belém and beyond. Funded by the EDP Foundation, the philanthropic arm of Energias de Portugal, Maat has become a fixture of the city’s arts scene."

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Estoril

Alto dos Gaios

"Lisbon offers the best of both worlds: a vibrant metropolis and golden sandy beaches. Hop in a car and you’ll soon be riding the Atlantic’s breaks in a nearby coastal town. A 20-minute drive west will take you to Estoril, where you’ll find Carcavelos, São Pedro and Azarujinha beaches; all have reliable swells that are suitable for beginners. Guincho in the Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais offers barrels for the more seasoned surfer. Beyond that is Ericeira, a fishing village and Europe’s first World Surfing Reserve. It enjoys an array of great waves – beach breaks, point breaks and reef breaks – to suit all styles and abilities."

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