Everyone says the meat in Japan will change your life, and everyone is right. Especially if you try it at Toranoana, a yakiniku (grilled beef specialist) in Ebisu. The multi-course meal starts with sliced raw beef and raw liver, then moves on to the grilled items: tongue, various cuts of short rib, then hangar steak and innards. While the focus here is squarely on carnivorous bites, Toranoana doesn’t skimp on the veggies and the salad and vegetable side dishes were some of the best of the trip.