48 hours in Barcelona

@jjfeldman
 on 2022.06.04
10 Places
@jjfeldman
Avoid the tourist crowds and enjoy the best of Barcelona. These recos came straight from native Catalunyans, and have been (mostly) vetted :)

Hotel Villa Emilia

Hotel · la Nova Esquerra de l'Eixample

In the heart of a residential neighborhood, this quiet, stylish hotel offers affordable airport pickup/dropoff, bicycle rentals, and great views from both your room and the rooftop bar. Although it's not centrally located to the more common tourist spots, there's a metro stop one block away, as well as a tree lined pedestrian and bike path that takes you all the way to Passieg de Gracia.

Papagayo

Permanently Closed

It's your first night in Barcelona, what is there to do when all the patio tables at the vermouth bars on the Conde Nast list are full? Pop on over to this hole-in-the-wall gem. Not only have you avoided the crowds, but you'll probably have a better experience.

More than just a mountain, you could literally spend all day here. Start at the Magic Fountain, and climb the steps to cool off in the National Museum of Art. Skip out the back and cut through the 1992 Olympic Stadium on your way to the Botanical Gardens.

Can Paixano

Wine Bar · La Barceloneta

OK so this really is a deli. A counter-service deli that's surprisingly well organized, with attentive, friendly staff despite the crowd. There are no chairs, so belly up to a high top and claim your spot. The catch? Your only drink option is a bottle of bubbly! Can't justify splitting an entire bottle over lunch? They also serve by the glass.

Paradiso

Cocktail Bar · La Barceloneta

A speakeasy within a speakeasy. The long line that forms outside Paradiso would indicate that this counter service deli has the best bocadillos in town. At 1AM? Come on, those folks are waiting to access the club in the basement. They'll descend the stairs behind the vintage refrigerator right inside the door. And when the downstairs bar gets too crowded? Look for the fake wall in the restroom...

La Pedrera (Casa Mila) (Casa Mila)

Monument / Landmark · la Dreta de l'Eixample

One of several Gaudi-architected buildings, La Pedrera is now a functioning apartment building that was originally commissioned as a private residence by the Mila family. Book tickets ahead of time, or simply admire from the street. Although I can't personally vouch for it, we heard that the night tour ending on the rooftop with live music was exceptional.

Xavier Pellicer

Mediterranean Restaurant · la Dreta de l'Eixample

After window shopping your way up Passeig de Gracia, and marveling at Gaudi's Casa Mila, stop in for a long lunch and rest your dogs. This laid back restaurant offers three tasting menus for the ominovores, vegetarians, and vegans. Not light on the wallet, this was one meal I'll never forget.

Obviously. If you've toured it in the past, it's likely not much has changed. Allegedly, construction will be completed this decade, but they've been saying that for a century. If it's your first time, purchase skip-the-line tickets ahead of time (trust). Like the Eiffel Tower at midnight, Sagrada Famlia also peaks at a specific time of day... and that time is sunset, when the sunlight streams through the windows and the whole cathedral appears to be on fire.

BierCab

Beer Bar · l'Antiga Esquerra de l'Eixample

Start at BierCab for an intro to Catalunyan craft brews, then hop over to your fave. The 3 block radius surrounding BierCab is dense with craft breweries.

La Pallaresa

Café · Barri Gotic

THE quintessential churro cafe. Even locals go on Sunday afternoons for churros and chocolate.