"The super-central Antico Forno Roscioli isn’t actually as ancient as the name might suggest; the Roscioli family opened it in the 1970s. They dutifully make classic Roman baked goods, but the breads and cookies at the counter (however excellent) aren’t what draw thousands of customers daily. Queue up at the counter below the neon Roscioli sign to order the real draw, pizza alla pala, from the brusque staff. In the morning, there are a few simple choices like pizza rossa (bright and tangy tomato sauce), bianca (olive oil and salt), and patate (potato, with or without cheese), while the place transforms into a hectic cafeteria at lunchtime when more elaborate pizzas fill the counter. The classics are always the best, with a sturdy structure and a crispy, chewy texture that embodies the style’s platonic ideal." - Katie Parla
