Déviant

The Well-Crafted Kitchen: Inside the Raucous New Paris Restaurant, Déviant | Bon Appétit

"When the metal grate is rolled up it reveals a tiny, open-air, counter-only spot with no windows or walls—just a small open kitchen surrounded by a bar and shallow ledges—designed with black-based terrazzo, mirrors, marble and dramatic sconces that give it a playful, 'cool hot-dog-stand-meets-natural-wine bar' vibe. Conceived by a young chef and his partner as a second project, the space channels traditional French butchers and fishmongers (if the owner stands outside, it’s open) and deliberately maximizes every inch to make a compact operation feel larger. The ever-changing lineup of small plates is built to be eaten by hand or with minimal utensils and ranges from mussels in a celery–peppercorn broth and seared foie gras with spinach and buckwheat to spicy chicken wings finished in a tamarind–galangal sauce simmered for ten hours, plus simple desserts like three perfectly made canelés with whipped cream. Service is theatrical and tightly choreographed around a single griddle, two induction burners and a carefully organized pass (clever refrigerated drawers, exposed shelving and a hidden dish room/Japanese ice machine), and the place stays open late—often crowded on weekends—so efficiency and precise mise en place are essential." - ByChristine Muhlke