Trattoria Da Ruggero

"Trattoria Ruggero is just outside the city’s walls beyond Porta Romana. So while it might be a little bit of a walk (it’s roughly 20 minutes from the Ponte Vecchio), it’s worth checking out this rustic Tuscan restaurant where locals have been loudly clinking glasses of wine and shouting over each other for over 40 years. The handwritten menus can be slightly hard to read, so let us be of assistance: start with some classic earthy Tuscan liver pate, tack on an order of carrattiera spicy tomato pasta, and follow it all up with the arista, a huge plate of slow-roasted pork loin with seasonal vegetables. Also worth noting is the very satisfying ribollita—a centuries-old soup recipe that’s made with cabbage, white beans, stale bread, and vegetables. Go during Sunday lunch and don’t be afraid to slurp the broth from your tortellini in brodo amongst all the Oltrarno locals catching up after a long week. Reservations (by phone) are a must. " - coral sisk, georgette jupe

"Trattoria Ruggero is just outside the city’s walls beyond Porta Romana. So while it might be a little bit of a walk (it’s roughly 20 minutes from the Ponte Vecchio), it’s worth checking out this rustic Tuscan restaurant where locals have been loudly clinking glasses of wine and shouting over each other for over 40 years. The handwritten menus can be slightly hard to read, so let us be of assistance: start with some classic earthy Tuscan liver pate, tack on an order of carrattiera spicy tomato pasta, and follow it all up with the arista, a huge plate of slow-roasted pork loin with seasonal vegetables. Also worth noting is the very satisfying ribollita—a centuries-old soup recipe that’s made with cabbage, white beans, stale bread, and vegetables. Go during Sunday lunch and don’t be afraid to slurp the broth from your tortellini in brodo amongst all the Oltrarno locals catching up after a long week. Reservations (by phone) are a must." - Georgette Jupe

"An old-school restaurant known for its ribollita, providing warmth on cold winter evenings."

"Ruggero is described by locals as a tuffo nel passato (blast from the past). The time capsule trattoria hasn’t updated its decor since the ’70s, but the affordable local fare has held up. Come for quality options such as pici pasta, roast pork, tender filetto (tenderloin), and seasonal sides (porcini, zucchini flowers, artichokes). The calling card primo dish is spaghetti alla carrettiera, a dense red sauce preparation with a kick of chile, anchovies, breadcrumbs, and herbs. Ruggero isn’t quite in the historic center, but it’s worth the walk past the Porta Romana." - Coral Sisk

"It may look modest, but Da Ruggero serves some of the best traditional food in town. The menu is stocked with perfectly prepared Florentine classics with the odd seasonal variation. The hand-written menu offers the likes of liver-topped crostini and platters of Tuscan salami, hearty soups like the bread- and cabbage-based ribollita, pasta with truffles or porcini mushrooms (depending on the season), and grilled salsicce (spicy sausages) with white beans. It’s all hearty and delicious. Just be prepared for a bit of a trek, as it’s located outside the city center. The off-radar location guarantees that not many tourists make it this far, but Ruggero is always packed with locals here for the good, honest home cooking (booking ahead is essential). Low-level chat accompanies serious chowing down; this is not a party spot, but a place to sample the best of the rustic local cooking." - Nicky Swallow