"Trattoria Ruggero is just outside the city’s walls beyond Porta Romana. So while it might be a little bit of a walk (it’s roughly 20 minutes from the Ponte Vecchio), it’s worth checking out this rustic Tuscan restaurant where locals have been loudly clinking glasses of wine and shouting over each other for over 40 years. The handwritten menus can be slightly hard to read, so let us be of assistance: start with some classic earthy Tuscan liver pate, tack on an order of carrattiera spicy tomato pasta, and follow it all up with the arista, a huge plate of slow-roasted pork loin with seasonal vegetables. Also worth noting is the very satisfying ribollita—a centuries-old soup recipe that’s made with cabbage, white beans, stale bread, and vegetables. Go during Sunday lunch and don’t be afraid to slurp the broth from your tortellini in brodo amongst all the Oltrarno locals catching up after a long week. Reservations (by phone) are a must. " - coral sisk, georgette jupe
