Usman L.
Yelp
The Restaurant at 1900 is a refreshing surprise on the KC restaurant scene. We typically try a few new restaurants each week, some great, some not. However, it's rare that we come upon one that leaves us reveling in the details of the meal and already contemplating a return.
The menu is both inventive and flavorful with combinations that actually work. Many of the dishes bring together unexpected flavors which blend together subtly at the corners and maintain their separation at the edges. This artful balance allows for each ingredient to stand on its own legs while still contributing to the success of the dish as a whole. Everything is fresh and tastefully served.
The moment I neared the entrance, Keith Goldman was already opening the door and welcoming us into the restaurant. It was quite pleasant on the patio, and we really enjoyed the experience. Our waiter was excellent. He kept our water glasses topped up, checked in on us regularly without being obtrusive, and we never felt we were waiting for him on anything. He anticipated many of our needs before we voiced them and provided excellent recommendations and advice regarding the menu at indecisive junctures.
We opened with the famous Lobster Poptart, a delicate yet crisp pastry full of surprising fresh and delicately sweet lobster meat. Having spent a lot of time living in the Northeast and just recently feasting heavily on seafood in Cape Cod, we were caught off guard by the quality of the lobster. Our 7-year old was particularly impressed.
The other appetizer was the Peaches, Peppers, and Shrimp. The shrimp were served head on, but partially deshelled and easy to dispense with. They were well seasoned and plated on a deliciously spicy harissa paste along with some delicately roasted peppers and juicy cuts of peach. The 4-year old loved the shrimp, and all of us were savoring the roasted peppers. My only feedback on this dish and the dessert that came later was that the peaches were not at their peak. I might humbly suggest that Chef Linda Duerr consider White Peaches. They can be shockingly sweet and flavorful. That being said, the dish was still excellent.
We narrowly missed ordering the Tempura Fried Mushroom appetizer which is much more sophisticated than its description. Judging by Abby P's experience, we missed out.
The Garganelli in Lamb Bolognese soon arrived with our entrees. The waiter had warned us that it was a smaller portion. Rather than upsizing, we added on an additional entree to allow us to better explore the menu. I found it quite good, but it did not blow me away like the other dishes.
The Mezze at 1900 consisted of a score of vegetables each perfectly roasted and lightly seasoned along with carrot falafel, and an eggplant puree. We were all equally impressed. I found it hard to fathom how such a simple dish had been elevated to such a level that we savored every bite. The naan, which I would typically dismiss, was light and fluffy yet slightly crisp with a unique blend of spices doused on it which made it an excellent accompaniment to this vegetarian dish.
The Crispy Dorade Fillet was served skin on, deboned, split into two tail-on fillets. It was served over Peruvian limas, charred kale, and broccoli which was delicious and fresh. Personally, I found the fish to be a bit "gamey" if that's fair to say about seafood. The 4-year old and my wife both thought it was one of the high points of the meal.
The portions of the appetizers, entrees, and desserts are a bit smaller than you might expect (except for the fish), especially for this Midwestern market and the price point. Keep this in mind as you order and take it as an opportunity to explore more starters.
As we wound down the meal, we perused the dessert menu and had great difficulty narrowing down the options. The Dark Chocolate Mousse was rich yet fluffy, light, and perfectly complemented by the salted hazelnut crunch. The Lemon Chiffon cake consisted of very light and airy cake layers interspersed with a tart, but not overly sweet, cream. The gently bitterness of the candied grapefruit peel added another dimension to the flavor. My wife is not a fan of sour desserts but ventured in for a bite and found herself to be a convert. As for the roasted peaches with corn ice cream, the pound cake croutons were overindulgent yet in a small crisp dose that perfectly capped off the meal.
We were impressed by the excellent service, inviting atmosphere, kindness of everyone who we encountered especially towards our children, and the amazing food.
I am particularly excited to see the menu is constantly revitalized with new creations. excited to visit again in the near future to explore of the culinary innovation served up by chef, Linda Duerr.
We felt this was the type of experience we would typically have had in Boston or NYC. Learning that the chef is a New England native, it explains a lot.
We will definitely be back!
