Stand Étterem

"Hungary’s second newly anointed Two Star restaurant also delivers an exceptional level of cooking, but this time offers a different approach. Here, chef-owner duo Szabina Szulló and Tamás Széll show great respect for Hungary’s culinary heritage by impressively re-inventing and modernising Hungarian classics – such as a deconstructed Somlói cake – which are presented via tasting menus and come with exceptional precision. In its design, Stand is a modern restaurant, with a striking glass-fronted kitchen where you can watch the chefs working their magic – and the large dining room has a buzz that promises a fun night out. Similarly, the food is not flashy, but assured and considered, with consistently excellent flavours. Superb technical skills are on display, but this is always in service of the dish, never just to show off. Our inspectors were impressed by the detail, refinement and balance found across the line-up of dishes, some of which were especially memorable. One such dish is something of a speciality at Stand: sterlet fillet with langoustine, cucumber salad, clam sauce, dill and caviar. An attractively put together dish, with considerable skill involved in its preparation, it was a great showcase of the detail and precision in Szabina and Tamás’ cooking. The lightly steamed sterlet fillet was rolled and filled with a langoustine mousse, which provided great texture. It was perhaps the exceptional clam sauce that impressed our inspectors the most however, providing a pronounced shellfish flavour that was further enhanced by the caviar. As with all great dishes, the flavours were beautifully balanced, this time courtesy of a cucumber salad and some tart apple. Moving from a Stand classic to a national classic, the gulyás (goulash) soup is a brilliant example of Szabina and Tamás’ modern approach to traditional Hungarian dishes. The slow-cooked beef was deliciously tender, but with a little firmness and plenty of meaty flavour. It sat inside a perfectly smooth soup that provided a great earthiness and a generous kick of paprika. Crucially, the signature spice was not overpowering, and the chefs’ aptitude for balance was demonstrated again by the addition of some acidity to balance the rich soup. For one inspector this was provided by preserved lemon and, for another, by charred apple – the dish being refined by the chefs over time. At the base of this skilled cooking is some great quality produce and the excellent saddle of venison impressed several of our Michelin Inspectors. The lean, full-flavoured meat was chargrilled perfectly, ensuring that it was succulent and tender, and it was topped by a fruity cherry and blackcurrant jam in just the right quantity to complement but not overpower the core flavour. Fondant potatoes, dehydrated liver shavings and a fabulous barbecue jus completed this stand-out dish. When it comes to vegetables, Szabina and Tamás are equally adept as they are with meat and fish, offering a fully vegetarian tasting menu alongside their standard version. One of their signature vegetable dishes – which appears on both menus – is based around new potatoes; another attractively presented dish, this elevates the humble potato to new heights. A huge amount of work had clearly been put into the preparation of the confit potato itself, which provided a brilliant depth of flavour that was only enhanced by the other elements. The whole dish had a richness and earthiness that worked brilliantly, with a potato butter sauce and ‘mushroom truffle’ praised by the inspectors. A ‘mushroom caviar’ sauce was then added at the table for a dash of theatre. Whichever course they were enjoying, the Michelin Inspectors found their experience at Stand to be truly superb, so it’s no wonder that Tamás, Szabina and other members of the kitchen team have found repeated success in the Bocuse d’Or over the years. Your whole visit to Stand will run like clockwork thanks to the smooth service from a highly organised team, and your dishes will be complemented by some great Hungarian wines." - The MICHELIN Guide UK Editorial Team

"A central glass-walled kitchen is the focal point of this eye-catching modern restaurant; a dining room sits either side, and there’s a chatty buzz to the room – helped along by the personable service team. The two experienced chef-owners are proud of their Hungarian roots and skilfully reinvent and modernise classic Hungarian dishes using a wide range of techniques. Wonderful flavours and textures abound, and build steadily throughout the meal. When it comes to wine, look to the Hungarian options – there are some great sweet Tokajis on the list." - Michelin Inspector

"The heart of chef-owners Tamás Széll and Szabina Szulló’s elegant restaurant is the glass-fronted kitchen; here they work closely with their team to create attractive dishes that deliver considerable depth and sophistication. The passion and respect they show for their Hungarian heritage is infused into every dish." - The MICHELIN Guide UK Editorial Team

"Earns One Michelin Star for cooking that has its heart in the Hungarian classics but is infused with personality." - The MICHELIN Guide Nordic Editorial Team

"A smart, formal restaurant with contemporary monochrome styling and a kitchen on view behind glass. The cooking is modern, but the unfussy dishes have their heart in the Hungarian classics; the confident kitchen taking a just a handful of top quality ingredients and allowing them to shine." - Kenneth Goh