Spartina

"It happens like clockwork. Someone in your group text says they want to eat somewhere “fun and different!,” you respond with an uni omakase in a far-flung neighborhood, and they promptly reply that this meal needs to be in West Hollywood. Ground-breaking. Suddenly, you’ve lost all interest in the conversation and just want to find a place that everyone will commit to as quickly as possible. This is when you need to remember Spartina, a casual Italian restaurant on Melrose. Finding a place to eat in LA with friends is a challenge - plans change and people bail. But Spartina, with its central location and food that keeps everybody happy, is always a solid backup. photo credit: Jakob Layman Spartina is on one of West Hollywood’s busiest stretches, but you could also drive past it every day without noticing it. The entrance is on a side street, and its patio is so heavily guarded with potted plants you’d think you accidentally drove to a nursery. Once you’re behind those, you’ll find a festive outdoor space with string lights, lots of heat lamps, and plenty of seating if you’re with a big group. The interior is clean and modern, but not so upscale that you’d feel weird on an early-in-the-game date. There’s also a bar that fills up by 8pm with neighborhood people drinking wine. All of this is to say, you feel comfortable at Spartina, and that goes a long way when you’re with someone who just found out that uni is sea urchin gonads. Lucky for your friend, there is none of that on Spartina’s menu. Instead, there are a bunch of pizzas, several pastas, big plates of meat, and an antipasti section with everything from grilled avocado to meatballs. Nothing is core-rattling fantastic (except the walnut pie dessert), but you’re also going to be perfectly happy with everything that hits the table. And sometimes that’s enough when you’ve realized your friends aren’t going any further east than La Brea. Food Rundown photo credit: Jakob Layman Bread & Whipped Ricotta This needs to hit your table first. The bread itself is thick and hearty, and the whipped ricotta with honey provides some much-needed sweetness. photo credit: Jakob Layman Grilled Avocado $16 might seem like a ridiculous price point for an avocado, but it’s filled calabrian chilis and ricotta salata. It’s basically a loaded baked potato, but with a lot less sweating afterwards. Pepperoni Pizza If you’re looking for something sweet and spicy, this honey and chili oil-topped pie is the way to go. It’s a solid pizza with a crunchy crust and easily shareable with a few people. photo credit: Jakob Layman Pork Collar Ragu Spartina’s pasta is the strongest section on the menu, and the pork collar ragu is our favorite. It’s certainly not the most complex plate of pasta you’ll ever eat, but sometimes it’s nice to eat a bowl of cheese, red sauce, and pasta. photo credit: Jakob Layman Walnut Pie Another item that’s been on Spartina’s menu for awhile, this walnut pie is worth saving a little room for at the end." - Brant Cox

"We went to a West Hollywood Italian place, Spartina. I am an indecisive orderer, so we got pork belly, endive salad, beef agnolotti, Brussels sprouts, and a grilled artichoke, and split everything. I’m a big artichoke guy. I think I really gravitate toward foods that require a process. Crustaceans. Artichokes. Anything that could cut your hands and requires a lot of dexterous activity and is not a food that you can eat on a date? That’s my jam."

"Stephen Kalt’s enduring Italian restaurant has a wide menu of fresh pasta, wood-fired pizza, and entrees that has mass appeal without a bit of snobbery. One of Melrose’s most impressive restaurants with a terrific outdoor patio and wonderful midcentury modern interior that serves as a breath of fresh air in on this stretch of Melrose." - Matthew Kang

"When: Daily, 4-6pm The Deal: $5 beer, $7 wine, $10 cocktails, and $12 pizza, salad, and sandwiches Spartina is an Italian spot on Melrose with a big front patio and solid food across the board. It’s a great spot to meet up with a friend or someone from a dating app who you aren’t totally sold on yet." - Brant Cox

"Spartina is an Italian restaurant open for dining on their large patio in Weho, with handmade pastas and crunchy pizzas. They’ve got dinner every night, plus weekday lunch, and a weekend brunch that involves an excellent guanciale bacon and egg pizza. Reserve on their website." - Brett Keating