Shion 69 Leonard Street

"When a chef can turn white fish to the buttery richness of toro, you know you’re in the right place. And that’s precisely the talent of Shion Uino, who made waves when he landed in New York by way of Tokyo in 2017, having come off a decade’s worth of work at one of the world’s most prestigious sushi bars, Sushi Saito. In the city, he teamed up with 69 Leonard owner Idan Elkon to launch this high-end sushi concept priced at $480 (including tip) that centers on rare seafood and, hands down, the city’s most excellent interpretation of tamago. At the end of the meal, patrons also have the option to add on additional chinmi (rare bites). Wed to true Edomae style, the menu progresses from sashimi to a series of tsumami (small appetizers), nine nigiri bites, a hand roll, soup and that custard-like tamago. Book reservations online." - Nadia Chaudhury

"When a chef can turn white fish to the buttery richness of toro, you know you’re in the right place. And that’s precisely the talent of Shion Uino, who made waves when he landed in New York by way of Tokyo in 2017, having come off a decade’s worth of work at one of the world’s most prestigious sushi bars, the three-Michelin-starred Sushi Saito. The chef has most recently teamed up with 69 Leonard owner Idan Elkon to launch this high-end sushi concept priced at $480 (including tip) that centers on rare seafood and, hands down, the city’s most excellent interpretation of tamago. At the end of the meal, patrons also have the option to add on additional chinmi (rare bites). Wed to true Edomae style, the menu progresses from sashimi to a series of tsumami (small appetizers), nine nigiri bites, a hand roll, soup and that custard-like tamago." - Eater Staff

"One star for Shion Uino’s Edomae-style sushi-ya that’s $400 per person which includes gratuity." - Eater Staff

"At $480 a pop (gratuity included), Shion 69 Leonard Street is one of the most expensive omakases in the city. But the restaurant delivers on everything it absolutely must for the price: skillfully prepared fish, impeccable service, and enough food to not have to get a secret second dinner at McDonald’s. But what makes the two-hour meal truly outstanding is the seven-plate otsumami course in the first half, with signature dishes like butterfish in hot ponzu, a cold horsehair crab salad, and tilefish with deep-fried scales. Come to this restaurant for a special occasion, but know that throwing back sake and singing "Happy Birthday" here would be akin to doing TikTok dances in a museum." - bryan kim, neha talreja, hannah albertine, will hartman

"Kaiseki meets sushi via Shoji at 69 Leonard, the Japanese pop-up turned permanent concept that replaced Ichimura in 2018. Chef Derek Wilcox — who recently earned three stars from the Times — spent seven years at three-Michelin-starred Kikunoi in Kyoto, and he brings to New York one of the most faithful Japanese dining experiences the city offers. Within an unadorned, blonde wood, 10-seat counter space, Wilcox plates three weekly-changing omakase menus ($190, $252, $295, all gratuity included) rife with rare and hyper seasonal Japanese ingredients. Hamo (pike conder eel) sashimi, kan buri (winter amerjack) marinated in sake lees, and namako (sea cucumber) tenerized in green tea all make appearances. The menu commences with a series of otsumami (appetizers) and kaiseki-inspired small plates before moving into around 10 drops of nigiri, followed by temaki, soup, and dessert." - Kat Odell