Michael U.
Yelp
Full review blogged. Good, not great. Highlights below.
The Why: The Number One hotel in Canada according to some sources - Five Diamonds, Relais et Chateau Rated, an off-the-beaten path gem, and an ever changing menu crafted by Chef Jonathan Gushue focused on the best local ingredients available - it seemed a perfect way to end our trip spanning from Toledo to Montreal and back.
The Service: Elegant and formal but decidedly lacking the polish and charm of many similar restaurants I was actually somewhat surprised by the fact that only a single captain and server were working the room that evening. Perhaps an effect of the season or low number of diners there were periods where water went unfilled, plates sat empty, and presentations were bobbled that I simply would not expect from a restaurant of such stature.
Lavender White Hot Chocolate: Generally not a fan of floral flavors this was highly recommended by our server and actually quite excellent, a light perfume of lavender with rich smooth sipping chocolate.
Dressed Rabbit with duck liver mousse and Endive: In my opinion the best bite of the evening, this complementary amuse was perfect - the lean tartare of rabbit melded together by the creamy foie gras while endive and crisp onions kept it vibrant.
House White and Wheat Bread with Salted Aged Butter: A top ten all time bread service, particularly considering there was only two options - the quality here was in the butter. Rich and decadent - literally as flavorful as an aged cheese and as good as many in Paris I really have no idea how much of this I ate, but I do know the bread was replenished twice and the butter thrice...and I don't think the ladies were responsible.
Potato Fondue, Basil, Herb Chips, Sallers: This was awesome - probably more butter than potato and beautifully accented with the herbal elements while the crispy root vegetables added texture.
Lobster, Partridgeberry Jus, Baby Beets, Parsnip, Red Onion, Rainbow Chard: My aunt's selection and everything the cod tongue could have been - perfectly executed lobster in a vegetal melange that reminded me of the cuisine out in northern California in terms of its freshness, refinement, and balance. At times bitter, at others earthy, but all the time with a slight overlying sweetness that played off the natural flavors of the shellfish.
Roe Deer, Chickweed, Venison Bacon, Navet, Mustard Greens, Sunflower Crumble, Natural Jus: My selection - served medium-rare by Chef's choice - was small in portion but impressively lean and perfectly gamey, but even cooked perfectly still a bit dry. Having bathed other proteins in sauces and broths it is hard for me to determine why Gushue opted to go with largely dry accoutrements on this plate given the natural leanness of small deer but all-in-all it was a poor choice, particularly at a $44 price tag.
Dark Chocolate Toffee Bar with Coco Nibs, Soused Cherry Ice Cream: By far the best of the desserts that afternoon, this was dry like a Kit-Kat yet melted like a semifreddo on the tongue. Bittersweet but bolstered by the intensely sour ice cream everything here from temperature to texture to taste was nicely balanced.
Pine Scented Lemon Sponge Cake with Toasted Marshmallow and Citrus Frozen Yogurt: My mother ordered this for the citrus...she enjoyed it. To me it tasted much like Pine-sol smells. Texturally interesting to be sure, but most assuredly not my style.
The Verdict: In many ways befitting of its tremendous accolades I couldn't help but depart Langdon Hall a bit disappointed. For many reasons a 'destination meal,' including location, sourcing, and setting the simple fact of the matter was that for over $100/pp after tax and tip there were just too many uninspiring courses at too much cost. While I don't doubt that both the front of the house and Chef Gushue's team in the kitchen can turn out an exemplary experience at Langdon Hall it would be hard for me to guarantee it to anyone based on my one experience and even harder for me to justify a return visit unless I otherwise found myself in the area.
