Alfred B.
Yelp
Lalla Rookh continues as one of the better eating houses in the CBD. Once again on this most recent visit we sat in the Wine Store area off Sherwood Court, surrounded by racks and boxes of wine - it is a great little space based on the enoteche of Italy and wine can be purchased for takeaway or for a corkage fee consumed on the premises - and is also available by the glass.
The wine list is extremely well put together, covering Australian and international wines, with a focus on regional and varietal expression, many rarely seen around town, while the menu is a celebration of regional Italian cuisine.
With our daughter in tow, lady FWO and I dropped in for lunch earlier this week. A glass of rosé (what else for Lady FWO?), Riesling for me and sparkling for our effervescent daughter set the scene while we pondered our options.
Clos Cibonne, a rosé wine from Provence, made mainly from Tibouren grapes, is a little different from the run of the mill - a slightly oxidized nose, and a complex, savoury palate - silky textured and with sustained length.
The Yard Bimbi Bimbi Riesling from Larry Cherubino had some age - it was 2010- and it has a lifted floral bouquet, with a somewhat herbal quality - the palate is crisp, juicy, and full of intense lemon and tangerine flavours. The Great Southern keeps turning out wonderful Rieslings.
2014 Blind Corner Cremant from Margaret River, made from Chenin Blanc, has toasty and lemon aromas, with a fresh, fruity, but still crisp and dry palate; certainly a wine to whet your appetite.
On the food: we began with a couple of smaller starters - peasanella and kingfish crudo, before moving on to our mains of choice - roasted barramundi, salsiccia furian (pork sausage) and ravioli.
A basket of chewy, doughy bread topped with dried mushrooms, and a little olive oil, helped us through the short wait for our meals.
The crudo, chopped squares of juicy, delicate and succulent kingfish was accompanied by sweet but still slightly tart Greenstar apple, a scatter of pink peppercorn fragments and a splash of vermouth based dressing - a wonderful amalgam of texture and flavour - light and refreshing.
Peasanella - soft, crumbly, creamy and salty ricotta, a gentle lemon infusion, and snappy fresh green peas sat on a bed of chopped, crunchy grilled bread and a scattering of aromatic mint leaves - again full of contrasts, light, fresh and vitalising.
The fish had a salty crisp skin, tender and moist flesh, and sat alongside shaved fennel and celery, and a scatter of vinegary pickled mussels; a dash of lemon oil and that was that - simple and down to earth flavours that worked well together.
The tender, al dente, pillows of ravioli were filled with creamy and salty mix of ricotta and spinach, and served with sweet chopped figs, walnuts and a dash of sage butter to add a lifted herbal element.
Finally, the salsiccia furian - beautifully seasoned, slightly spicy, rich pork sausage accompanied by pickled sour flavours of fermented sauerkraut, offset by sweeter notes from apple and then a zip from a creamy horseradish sauce. Perfect.
With our meals we moved on to a bottle of 2014 "X by Xabregas" Spencer Vineyard Riesling - a fragrant bouquet of green apples, pears and spice, with a touch of mandarin; the palate is off-dry with a little residual sugar, but still zesty with lemon, lime and apple notes; good acid and a long finish.
As I have said before, we think the Wine Store - and by extension Lalla Rookh itself - is one of the best Italian trattoria in Perth- the food is outstanding, the wine list broad, beautifully constructed and ever changing, and the service excellent and knowledgeable. Absolutely recommended.