Kim N.
Yelp
My very last meal in Denmark. Such a great way to celebrate a great many meals in the area. Now stay with me here. One of the chef partners used to work for Jan Restorff, who knows everyone in fine dining around Copenhagen. Our server Johan grew up in the Faroe Islands like Jan Restorff did and got his job here because of Jan. One of the other chefs used to cook at Geranium and is the house mate of the head chef of Rasmus Koefoed who grew up in Orange County not far from where my father lives. We met Jan the day before and prior to that we met Patrick who used to work for jan at Formel B. Small world Copenhagen fine dining is eh?
We were preceded by word from Christian from Den Gule Cottage, the other establishment down the road overlooking the beach. Because the path to this restaurant is literally through parts of the forest, one of the cooks from Den Gule walked us over. How much hospitality is that? When we arrived we were immediately greeted by Johan and secondly by Lars, the other partner. We sat outside, had some bubbly and a few small bites, enjoying the vast tip of the forest before heading inside for the main meal.
This little red hut is from architecture of years past and the owners after looking for space in Copenhagen proper fell in love with the two buildings not too far from each other in Klampenborg. Altered to contain modern functional kitchens, they put a lot of heart into making high quality food in both establishments. As surprised as anyone they achieved a Michelin star here just the end of last year and the food shows. After looking at the menu we couldn't not get everything to make a full tasting menu. It was our last meal after all...
Food:
Salted mackerel, smoked cheese, cucumber and radish.
Lobster, peas, mint and almonds.
Danish summer tomatoes.
Rabbit, fennel and green strawberries.
Chicken, gooseberries, potatoes and beans.
Cheese, jerusalem artichoke and horseradish
Strawberries, verbena and buttermilk.
Chocolate, chocolate, chocolate.
Wine:
2010 Tomàs Cusinè, Auzells, El Vilesell
2011 Frantz Saumon, Minéral, Husseau, Loire.
2009 Arnaud Ente, Burgundy aligote, Burgundy.
2009 Domaine Pallus, Pensées des Pallus, Chinon, Loire.
2011 Arianna Occhipinti, SP68, Vittoria, Sicily.
2009 Domaine Agapé, riesling, Riquewihr.
Cascina Riveri, Birbet, Monteu, Roero.
2010 Rustenberg, Straw wine, coastal region.
Phenomenal. Past histories at Geranium and Søllerød Kro cooking definitely shows. Not quite the ultra modern of the former or too French driven like the latter, but utterly delicious in their own style, just like the funky building. If you go here you should explore the space. Hit the upstairs restroom and see the cool slightly psychedelic paintings and obviously the views of nature all around. They have an interesting hallway that they built leading to a side building where the service station and kitchen reside.
The service from Lars and Johan is extremely warm and comfortable, Throughout the night we chatted with them extensively about Danish cuisines new movement, what they love, the classics and things like why they love Danish lunch but not so much traditional dinner. We ended up there well past midnight even though we showed up at 7.30. We ran through the dark forest with cell phone light because we had to catch the last two trains at the station which never came (that's a whole other story). Even Johan got caught in that scenario.
A must try if you are in Copenhagen and have time to wander a bit farther north to see and eat. It truly is a fantastic place.