Derek W.
Yelp
We strolled down a sleepy out-of-the-way Venetian alleyway and as a gentle thrum of voices and the click-clack of pans grew louder we stumbled into the soft glow emanating from this restaurant that is no larger - but considerably more inviting - than a typical cozy European hotel room. The door swings open and you are instantly and completely besotted.
CoVino comprises no more than a dozen seats and nary a square inch of wasted or superfluous space. Everything happens within immediate proximity, with a scant few seconds of time lapsing between the plating and delivery of each course of your extravagant and unique feast. The striking aura and charismatic personality of Andrea Lorenzon dominates the space, and he is a whirling dervish of energy for whom no detail is to small to be improved upon, and no complaint to trifling to be resolved. Our neighboring diners didn't understand what they'd ordered, and when it arrived were clearly uninspired - no matter, Lorenzon whisked the plate away only to be replaced with a suitable alternative within minutes.
There were no misfires and several distinct highlights on the menu the evening we visited. Lorenzon thankfully guided us to a delicious local red blend wine and dropped a fresh bag of assorted breads onto the middle of our table. The octopus was recently caught, expertly prepared, and placed atop a colorful medley of fava beans, celery, tomato, and baby onions. The striped sea bream was meaty and luscious, with a robust bagna cauda and a few slices of raw crunchy fennel. Our favorite savory dish was bigoli in salsa - a traditional Venetian specialty featuring whole wheat pasta tubes enrobed in a decadent sauce composed of cooked-down anchovies simmered with stewed golden Montoro onions and spiked with a generous dose of cinnamon.
While the "wow" factor was high for the bigoli, it was highest for Diane's legendary chocolate cake, a one-of-a-kind experience that defies description. As a cake lover with high standards, I can confidently label this dark chocolate delight with supple sugary frosting as the best-in-show. We paired the cake with a "strawberry shake," a stack of sliced strawberries soaked in a sauce of balsamic vinegar and vanilla sugar syrup, and topped with mint leaves.
We left feeling that we'd been welcomed into the CoVino family and roundly pampered by Lorenzon and his crew, a sublime experience for a relatively modest cost, especially when compared to spendy European standards.