Barabba

"You may find yourself wondering, as you stare at the ceiling while owner and sommelier Riccardo Marcon pours grappa directly into your open mouth, How did I end up here? Here is a modest-looking Italian spot in the city center started by the former head sommelier of 108, Noma’s shuttered sister restaurant."

"Two young Italians run this shabby-chic restaurant hung with specially commissioned mint green chandeliers. Choose authentic flavours on the ‘Traditional’ menu or enjoy modern twists, such as seaweed tiramisu, on the ‘Attitude’ menu. Unusually for the city, it’s open until late." - Michelin Inspector

"Barabba just vibrates. The vibe has much to do with its Italian owner Riccardo Marcon’s personal approach to service. With a background in fine dining (he was opening beverage director of the now-closed Noma sister restaurant 108), Marcon has created a restaurant that delivers at a high level but stripped of all the fancy details. The food is Italian, though the kitchen seems more concerned with pleasure than tradition when creating dishes; the much-talked-about spaghetti with butter, colatura, and caviar, for instance, is beloved by influencers on Instagram. You can order a la carte, but there’s also a set tasting menu on offer for those who’d like the whole shebang. The wine list carries a great selection from the natural wine world, and the Negroni, with a dash of absinthe, is said to be one of the best in the city." - Anna Norström, Gabe Ulla

"GO HERE: for the mostly natural wines, handpicked by 108’s opening wine director Riccardo Marcon, with Italian food that reads as rustic on the menu but modern on the plate. (See binchotan-grilled octopus with a constellation of heirloom potatoes and olives tucked beneath young sorrel leaves.) ORDER: all of the pasta; grilled octopus; red prawns with romaine; and anything wild and gamy (the chef and co-owner Marco Cappelletti loves to hunt). THE VIBE IS: dark and a little scruffy at first glance, but the incredibly friendly Marcon and Cappelletti have a serious fine-dining background, so everyone feels well cared for. Natural-wine groupies can be seen poring over Marcon's list at the bar. Open late and good for groups—two rarities in Copenhagen—this place gets fun on weekends and is often a final stop for local chefs. PRACTICAL STUFF: Open for dinner Wednesday to Sunday, from 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday. —Christine Muhlke" - Condé Nast