Bad Saint

"Everyone misses Bad Saint, where I had some of the most memorable meals of the past decade. Even during the pandemic, it was a takeout treat." - Adele Chapin

"Rain or shine, the line outside Bad Saint starts forming two hours before it opens, when the first 25 diners get seated inside this tiny, no-reservations Filipino hot spot in Columbia Heights. The familial staff extend a warm welcome, while the sound of sizzling meat stimulates the senses. The food is serious, spicy business and includes authentic, family-style dishes such as ginataang puso ng saging (a cold, coconut-milk stew of banana blossom and pepper), kilawin na tambakol (a habanero-spiced tuna ceviche), and inihaw na liempo (lettuce wraps of grilled pork belly). Don’t make any final decisions without hearing the nightly special—and if it’s the sweet-potato-flour fried chicken with chili vinaigrette dripping sauce, order it!"

Winner: Tom Cunanan, Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic

"The safety of restaurant workers is the primary concern for Genevieve Villamora, managing owner at the hip Filipino restaurant Bad Saint in Columbia Heights. She has spent the pandemic poring over news reports and data in an attempt to develop expertise in infectious diseases." - Gabe Hiatt

"Other high-profile establishments — such as (now-closed) Kith/Kin, Tail Up Goat, and Bad Saint — decided to stay closed because they didn’t feel they could ask workers to risk exposure to the coronavirus." - Gabe Hiatt