Bourdain meets with Sheikh Zayed bin Sulaiman al-Ghafri at his rooftop terrace in Qantab. Oman is not a democracy. But people seem to have genuine affection for what Bourdain calls its “much-admired, enigmatic absolute ruler and monarch” of 47 years. “Usually one-man shows are not a good thing,” Bourdain quipped to businessman Sheikh Zayed bin Sulamain al-Ghafri about the nation’s esteemed ruler. “People just felt like he’s the man that they were waiting for to enlighten life,” al-Ghafri said, “and to open doors for them.”

"Dishes like pakora and kachori which both came back from India, chapati from East Africa, and shuwa, Oman's classic special event dish.... they slather a goat with a spicy paste consisting of cumin, coriander, red pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, and nutmeg. Then wrap the meat in palm or banana leaves, dig a hole, throw in some meat, and cover it up and leave underground for a day or two over hot coals."

A catering business run by women whose profits go to funding children's education in rural areas. They cooked a meal of "kabuli laham, slow cooked goat in a rice pilaf scented with star anise. Musanif djaj, a local specialty, are pan seared dumplings stuffed with chicken, pepper, ginger, turmeric, and onions. And of course there's Omani bread with honey."