"This informal, busy little restaurant and wine bar near the river has outdoor seating that’s perfect for those balmy nights. Don’t be distracted by the risqué black-and-white pictures from the 1930s; focus on the hundreds of Italian vintages (many bottles line the wood-panelled walls) and traditional Roman fare, especially the house cacio e pepe prepared with tonnarelli pasta – there’s also a tasty version with truffles. Pair it with a well-balanced red wine from Lazio."