Rome
MAXXI - National Museum of 21st Century Art
Museum · Flaminio
"Rome’s most interesting contemporary art museum, the Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo (Maxxi) is housed inside an impressive, cantilevered Zaha Hadid structure (see architecture section). It has curated exhibitions on Lina Bo Bardi in the past but this autumn it brings a new perspective to the work of the Italian-Brazilian architect by way of a nine-channel video installation by UK artist Isaac Julien. The project is dedicated to some of Bo Bardi’s trademark buildings – including the Teatro Gregório de Mattos in Brazil’s Salvador da Bahia."
Residenza Napoleone III
Hotel · Campo Marzio
"Comprising just two apartments within Palazzo Ruspoli, this is one of Rome’s most exclusive addresses. It’s named after Napoleon III, who lived here in 1830, and is today owned by Principessa Letizia Ruspoli, who often welcomes guests herself. The two apartments differ widely in style but have their own drawcards: the opulent Napoleon Suite has two ornately brocaded and gilded living rooms in which you can lounge like an aristocrat from yesteryear; while the rooftop suite is a bright and breezy affair with modern appointments and a staggeringly huge private rooftop terrace."
Giulio Passami L'olio
Roman restaurant · Campo Marzio
"This informal, busy little restaurant and wine bar near the river has outdoor seating that’s perfect for those balmy nights. Don’t be distracted by the risqué black-and-white pictures from the 1930s; focus on the hundreds of Italian vintages (many bottles line the wood-panelled walls) and traditional Roman fare, especially the house cacio e pepe prepared with tonnarelli pasta – there’s also a tasty version with truffles. Pair it with a well-balanced red wine from Lazio."
Bocache & Salvucci
Shoe store · Campo Marzio
"This collaboration between master cobblers Gian Luca Bocache and Roberto Salvucci has resulted in a dazzling cache of shoes in numerous shapes, styles and colours. The immaculately dressed duo focus on bespoke footwear, each pair of which takes four to six weeks to produce. During this time clients can optimise everything from the body material (stingray skin, anyone?) to the type of stitching, such as Norwegian or Goodyear, as well as specialised linings such as cashmere or linen."
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Archaeological museum · San Paolo
"Palazzo Massimo presents ancient Roman interiors by using original frescoed interior walls. Removed whole from Roman bed chambers, dining spaces and kitchens, they’ve been hung in rooms of the same proportions. Stepping into Livia’s garden room is like being outdoors – its walls depict such horticultural details that you can almost hear birdsong. Still more intimate is the room-by-room recreation of a villa of the Augustan age. It’s a reminder that ancient Rome was a riot of colour and was often more alien than we imagine."
Auditorium Parco della Musica
Concert hall · Pinciano
"Completed in 2002, this cluster of auditoriums has come to be regarded as one of Renzo Piano’s most successful designs. The arrangement centres on three large concert halls: the Sala Petrassi, which seats 700; the Sala Sinopoli, with a capacity of 1,200; and the Sala Santa Cecilia, which seats 2,800. The three structures are completely independent, each with its own beetle-like shell and individual character, but are grouped together in an architectural tête-à-tête. They form an inviting backdrop to outdoor performances or you can take a stroll around the raised gardens that surround them. The trio quickly numbered among Europe’s most frequented cultural music destinations and no wonder: together they are a perfect orchestration."
Roman Forum
Museum · San Paolo
"Rome’s cobbled streets and sweltering sun might seem like a hindrance to running but head out early in the morning and you’ll reap all the picturesque rewards that the city has to offer. Group running tours from a number of outfits kick off when the weather’s still cool and the tourists are asleep. These routes afford a plethora of unimpeded sights, such as Castel Sant’Angelo and the Colosseum. If you’re heading out alone, start at the crack of dawn and dart over to the Roman Forum – a singular spectacle at that hour."