This Breathtaking Mexico City Restaurant Is a History Lover's Dream
"Stepping off the busy Calle Tacuba into a portal of Mexico's colonial past, I enter Café de Tacuba, which has changed little since it opened in 1912 in a former convent and is one of the oldest restaurants in Mexico City. Walking into the dining room feels like following in the footsteps of Diego Rivera, Mexican presidents, and local rockstars, yet you won't find smiling photos of famous guests; instead brass chandeliers dangle from the ceiling, colonial artwork hangs on every wall, talavera pottery (made only in Puebla and Tlaxcala) accents stairs, hallways, and the dining room, and Mariachis stroll through serenading guests at all hours. The menu follows the same ethos: rich with indigenous, corn-based foods—maize is used in tamales, atole, and enchiladas—and many recipes trace back to Mayora nuns who cooked in churches and monasteries; the kitchen still follows original recipes that haven't changed in 50 to 60 years, so expect a 20–30 minute wait. The family—now represented by great-grandson Juan Pablo Ballesteros—credits longevity to consistency, sourcing native products from neighboring towns and states such as Puebla, Hidalgo, and Oaxaca, rarely adding permanent new dishes (specials only), and keeping the kitchen run by Mayoras, today overseen by third-generation Mayora Patricia Trejo Lozano. The result is a deliberately timeless, family-run place that spotlights Mexico's indigenous roots and traditions—mezcal, insects, champurrado and all—rather than chasing culinary trends." - Ximena N. Beltran Quan Kiu
