"Chef Neil Borthwick, who counts some titans of the French food world (including Michel Bras) as previous employers has moved from Merchant’s Tavern in Shoreditch to revive the kitchen of the Soho institution that launched the careers of Fergus and Margot Henderson, Peter Gordon, and Anna Hansen. It is only open at lunchtime during the week and, somewhat fittingly for somewhere anchored by the 90s, could not be less Soho-in-2018. Rillettes, lamb broth, Welsh rarebit, ox cheek and mash, aligot, John Dory and green sauce, and Paris Brest co-exist on a menu which seems to seek solace in fuss-free, trend-oblivious nostalgia." - Adam Coghlan
