"Founders opened L’Express on Saint-Denis in 1980 to cater to the area’s theater crowd, serving dependable French fare in a black-and-white-tiled dining room at nearly all hours. The bistro par excellence remains largely unchanged, and seats at the bar are more coveted than ever. Under chef Jean-François Vachon, who has helmed the kitchen since 2016, L’Express continues to uphold the classics with house standards like pistachio-speckled chicken liver pate, steak frites with shallot butter, and veal kidneys in mustard sauce." - Valerie Silva
