
"A renaissance of Pier 17 at Manhattan’s historic South Street Seaport, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new Fulton occupies two levels and more than 100 seats (including an outdoor patio) in a 7,300-square-foot, nautically designed space by Yabu Pushelberg that lets the East River and Brooklyn Bridge serve as the main attraction. The seafood-centric menu opens with a sashimi plate, snapper ceviche, and a warm octopus with mozzarella (combined because of their similar softness), and entrees span spice-crusted salmon, fish and chips, and longevity noodles with glazed Maine lobster, pea shoots, green chile, and ginger; sides include grilled asparagus, while a handful of non-fish options such as a cheeseburger and chargrilled chicken are also offered. There are also celebratory fish preparations—like a large fish for two baked in salt or en croute and carved at the table—and Vongerichten emphasizes sourcing from small boats that leave in the morning and return at noon so the fish can be served simply and at peak quality. Though the dishes are new, the Fulton is his homage to the Fulton Fish Market, which he frequented when he arrived in New York in 1986 and where Gilbert Le Coze first showed him fresh fish; Jean-Georges will be at the restaurant nightly for the first few weeks before executive chef Noah Poses (formerly of the Modern and the Watergate Hotel) takes over full-time. The Fulton opens tonight for dinner (bar at 5 p.m.; dinner 5:30–10:30 p.m. Monday–Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday–Saturday), with lunch added starting next week." - Beth Landman