"Yukgaejang, or Korean-style spicy beef soup, exists in a gray area of “soups with some noodles” alongside seolleongtang and gukbap where the noodles (usually dangmyeon, or glass noodles) are a relatively minor aspect of the dish. Enter Yuk Dae Jang, which takes one of Korea’s most beloved dishes and adds a healthy helping of wheat flour-based, hand-pulled knife-cut noodles. Traditionalist chefs might be given to pearl-clutching to see Korean royal court food sullied with such nonstandard ingredients as knife-cut noodles in a yukgaejang. With the city’s current obsession with thicker, hand-pulled noodles in noodle soups, however, the reimagining feels timely — and it tastes delicious." - Euno Lee