"Few recent appearances of bean curd in the city have been as startling as this one, at a restaurant that showcases historic recipes from Shanghai. While sea urchins — known as uni in Japanese cuisine — are usually treated as a luxury ingredient to be served chilled, here they are incorporated into a thick soup with tofu as a backdrop, lending a flavor that reminds you of being on an ocean boat ride with a stiff offshore breeze." - Robert Sietsema