"Even after the departure of chef Daniela Soto-Innes, Atla keeps innovating. One of its most recent offerings is birria — boneless beef short rib served in a half-pound portion cradled in a banana leaf. Alongside come cilantro, onion, and an orange-colored “salsa roja,” and the beef achieves a level of flavor unusual for that meat, making it taste almost like goat. House-made tortillas must be ordered separately." - Robert Sietsema