"It began with a veggie burger. The takeout-only, quinoa-based, fennel-laced patty (plus low-intervention bottles to go) got Montreal’s celebrated vegetable-forward wine bar Le Vin Papillon through the depressed spring of 2020. Come patio season, classic menu items resurfaced — charcoal-grilled sweetbread brochettes and house-made ham with Avonlea cheddar, scarfed from plates and takeout containers at their giant temporary patio “Joe Beach.”"